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Hey guys.... If you have been listening in on the 1967 Help series, (Mach1 this means you), I need your help now. That mustang I was looking at with the bad torque boxes and other rust damage. It was just dropped in price to $1400. It also comes with new panels for the floors and fenders. Should I jump on this??? I talked to the guy. I know there is rust but I have the connections to people who can weld. I think I want to get it but I'm not sure. Please write back if you have any info.

Ps. If you guys go to, collectorcartraderonline.com and search for a 1967 Ford Mustang Convertible you will find it. There is a picture there.

Thanks a lot.

Joe

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I am just finishing up with the torque boxes and floorpans on my 67 coupe. I wasn't to bad, but took some time. Convertibles are supposed to be harder though. you have to worry a lot more about keeping the car straight. And let me tell you, if you see a lot of rust, wait until you find the stuff you don't see. What I see on that car, is all new lower sheet metal down the pass side, and drivers is probably the same. It'd be nice to have a convertable, but that one is probably going to need a lot of work.

http://members.tripod.com/tangdar/
'67 Coupe project car (Did I say project car? I meant pile of rust)
http://www.americainter.net/~fevans/tangdar_flintstone.jpg
 
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You will most likely need the inner rockers replaced on a rusty convert

Greg B
 

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To replace the floor pans in a convertible, you will have to measure across the door opening diagonally (top of rear quarter to bottom of cowl, top of cowl to bottom of rear quarter). Then measure straight across the top and straight across the bottom.

You want to let the car sag just a little so that the top of the door opening is about 3/8" larger than the bottom. When you weld the pans in with the car in this attitude, the door seam will show the difference with a larger gap at the top than the bottom. After about 2 months of driving and sitting back on its wheels, the car will straighten out, the pans will seat in and the door crease will move to a uniform gap. If you don't do this, the same settling will occur and the seam that was straight when you first mounted the door back on will now be too narrow at the top and the door might start hitting the rear quarter at the top.

Remember, the floor is the primary structural component in a convertible and when you remove the pans, there is little support left for the body. You can minimize the strain on the body by replacing only one section of floor pan at a time, but you still need to measure carefully to make sure that there is no body flexing.

If you've never done this before, you may not want to start on a convertible. It may be worth your while to farm that part out to an experienced restorer and then finish the rest yourself.

As for the price of the car, $1400 seems like a good price. There may be better cars out there but it sounds like you know exactly what this one is going to need. If you feel comfortable with handling the floor repair or have the means to pay someone else a reasonable price to do that part, I'd say go for it.

Our Ponies
http://www.ultranet.com/~bpratt/images/Mach1painted.jpg http://www.ultranet.com/~bpratt/images/65vert.jpg
 

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Joe, after I posted the info on floors in a convertible, I went out to Collector Car Trader and looked at this car. I should have done that first, but based on that look I'm changing my advice to agree with TangDar. Pass on this one.

With that much visible rust, the undercarriage has to be really bad, probably including frame rails. You are probably also looking at a complete engine rebuild and lots more. If you can, spend $5-7K for something more solid to start with; you'll save money in the end. If not, keep looking for something less destroyed or really low-ball this one ($500 comes to mind, if that).

Our Ponies
http://www.ultranet.com/~bpratt/images/Mach1painted.jpg http://www.ultranet.com/~bpratt/images/65vert.jpg
 
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