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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK guys here is a little info on a car I'm looking at... here is the laydown...

Here is a general list of new parts I have
for the car..

1.Passenger full floor pan
2.Passenger front torque box
3.Passenger inner rocker panel
4.Passenger front floor extension
5.Passenger rear floor extension
6.Passenger front subframe support
7.Passenger seat riser lower support
8.Driver full floor pan
9.Driver front torque box
10.Driver inner rocker panel
11.Driver front floor extension
12.Driver rear floor extension
13.Driver front subframe support
14.Driver seat riser lower support

The car obviously needs all of this replaced. The rear torque boxes appear to be in great shape and should not need
replaced. Also, the driver side front torque box appear to be in excelent shape as well. I did order a replacement piece
just in case. For that matter, the entire driver side is much better than the passenger side. The car appears to have had
flat tires on the passenger side and sat close to (or on) the ground for many years causing the rust damage. I have already
stripped the car down to the bare shell. I did build door frame supports to eliminate concern for sagging when replacing
the floors and subframes. Structurally, the car was not sagging at all when I purchased it. Actually, all of the doors lined
up great and closed like they should. The engine is not original and neither is the tranny - it does have a 302 with a c4
now. The VIN indicates a 289 with a c4 - so it's not too far off.

As far as additional parts - I have estimated the following with my bodyshop...

1.Both quarters and wheelhouses
2.Rear frame extensions
3.Front frame sections (8 inches near the radiator support)
4.Battery tray and inner apron
5.front and rear valence

That is really it for metal. The doors, fender, hood, and trunk are all in great shape. They just need to be blasted, and
have a little rust fixed (less that 1 inch circle and is only surface on the doors by the drain holes).

For options, it does have power steering, deluxe hood with turn indicators, and seatbelt warning lamp. Originally it was
painted the light blue with blue interior - it is currently white with what I believe is the original interior (The door panels still
have the FOMOCO quality stamp on them!) I have removed the driver side seat cover ( I was looking for the build
sheet, no luck) and if memory is correct, the pasenger and rear seat have no tears in them - just show wear.

The car is currently white, but was originally light blue. It has the original interior - the seats need replaced as they are ripped.
The door panels still have the original Ford stamp on them, but show their wear. I purchased the car from the 3rd owner in
Georgia. The car has most of it's documentation and even includes the original signed owners manual! It was sold new in
Loiusianna and spent all of it's "life" in the south. It has the common areas of rust found in unrestored convertible mustangs.
The inner rockers, right front torque box, full floors, lower quarters, front and rear frame extensions. I have already purchased
the replacement metal for these areas. I have also stripped the car down completely and removed the passenger side inner
rocker, front torque box, and floor board. It was at this point I realized I could not do the job welding it back together I was
looking for so I decided to hire it done. I have many pictures I can send if you are still interested.

I would need $3,500 for the car if I sell it. This does include the $1,000 in new sheet metal!


Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Offer him $1500.00
I feel he is asking too much for a car that is in need of such extensive work.

Greg B

Discussion Starter · #3 ·
wow that sounds like my 67!
Only difference besides color, is the engine, I only paid 1k for mine, and its in generally speaking the same shape. If you add to that the 1k of sheetmetal he is providing, then that would bring it up to 2k. try starting at 2k and work your way up till he caves in. It may take alot of work and patience, but when its done it will be one nice ride. Trust me, when i look at my vert, i can see the finished car. It will be worth all the pain and tears in the end. Good luck if you decide to take it on as a project!

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by 67Convert on 04/04/01 10:08 PM (server time).</FONT></P>

5,527 Posts
The driver's side torque box will need to come out in order to install the inner rocker on that side. I've done those repairs. Here are some pics to let you know what you're getting into.

If the passenger side is out of the car, it will be difficult to transport without doing damage. Be careful.

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