[67Modcoupe]

Hi All,

I made my initial post a few months back, but I think some of my pictures didn't show up for everyone. Figured I would try again!

A little background - the car is pretty much a bare shell - was media blasted down to the metal and epoxy primered. This was done by the previous owner, and I bought it as a project. The good news is there is not a speck of rust anywhere, and the whole car is straight as an arrow. The bad news is I'm building a life size lego model.

Since buying the car, I have been working to get the suspension ready to go. I am installing the Rod and Custom Motorsports kit front and rear, and have Wilwood 4 wheel discs, and a 9" with 3.70s and tru-trac limited slip. The front subframe has been welded in and I am in the process of welding in the cover plates, so that I can start working on the engine bay and bolt up the suspension, steering and brakes. Finishing up painting the under-side of the car as well. My goal is over the next few months to get it off the chassis dolly and onto 4 wheels.

In the last few weeks, I have continued to add to my parts collection. I bought a drivetrain from an 85 GT that the owner was parting out. It's a 306 with Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads, cam and intake, has a FMS 10.5 clutch, and a T5, MSD ignitition, all accessories, mini-starter, etc. Hell of a deal, I am excited about that. I pulled the carb off the engine and am installing Fitech EFI. I pulled off the Fox headers and installed a set of JBA 1650s.

I just dropped in a new Spectra EFI tank, and am in the process of running new fuel and brake lines. I am using Nicop lines for the brakes and bending/flaring my own.

I put my to-date pictures into the following Google album, hopefully everyone can access the directory:

https://goo.gl/photos/nW5zqrPPJncLdv7g9


I'll keep everyone posted as I make more progress!

-- Mike

 

[67Modcoupe]

Some recent progress. I had the Rod and Custom front subframe welded in, shock towers cut out, and TCP Subframes welded in by DrewFab in Cincinnati. Great work. Mocked up the front suspension to test-fit.

 

[67Modcoupe]

Today, I removed the fenders, hood and front valance so that I could paint the engine bay. I have been working for the last few weeks to weld in the shock tower plates and use some filler to blend them into the engine bay interior panels. I am not a body or paint guy, but so far I like my work. I have some more finish sanding to do and a few more coats. Going to pain the chassis the same color and then I can start bolting in the suspension. I am using POR15 Top Coat, in Chassis Black.

 

[67Modcoupe]

Started assembling the 9" rear. It's set up to bolt in using the Rod and Custom 4 link kit. I painted the housing Carbon Mist to match the control arms. It's a 3.89 tru-trac with 31 spline axles. I have the lower brackets mounted for the shock and the lower control arm.

 

[67Modcoupe]

Posted this a month or so ago in the mod forum but here is the gauge panel. I am using Speedhut gauges. GPS speedo. 4.5" main gauges, and 2 1/16" smaller ones.

 

[2nd 66]

Guess it's to late for us to tell you to save your money and keep the shock towers. Do you have any plans on using something large than a SBF ?

 

[67Modcoupe]

Guess it's to late for us to tell you to save your money and keep the shock towers. Do you have any plans on using something large than a SBF ?

Yeah, I think I read every MII hater post before I dug in.

I am starting with SBF power. I had a 2014 GT Track pack and the Coyote is an awesome motor, but I am not convinced the level of effort in the swap is worth what I can get from traditional pushrod power. The MT82 transmission vs a T5 is also something I considered for size/fit/weight. Regardless, you can never have too much room in your engine bay.

 

[67Modcoupe]

Busy car weekend - when all the kids are back @ school it's amazing what you can accomplish.

Finished up most of the front suspension. Swaybar mounted, need to finish tightening a few bolts and install the cotter pins on the castle nuts, and grease the upper and lower ball joints. Then mount the rack and pinion. The front went together really easily, everything aligned well, swaybar end links pretty close to vertical. Got the rear lower control arms mounted in the front spring pockets. They did not want to go in easily, the bushing is a really tight squeeze and took some wrestling. Measured the upper coilover mounts and upper control arm mounts, just need to drill and bolt them in, but ran out of juice to finish today.

Thanks,

-- Mike

 

[67Modcoupe]

Power steering rack installed, along with the Wilwood front brake kit (Brake Kit No: 140-10440-BD). Everything seemed to go together nicely, with a minimum amount of frustration. I did a write-up on the brake install in the mod and custom forum with some notes/thoughts on how to make the install go easier.

Question for the forum on brake lines:

I am going to run Nicop lines, and have the tools and material to get started. I was thinking of using a "bulkhead" fitting to go from the engine bay to the fender well, since I don't have any of the original brake line mounts. That would give me a rigid mounting point to terminate the hard lines and transition to the SS braided lines to the caliper. Thoughts/advice?

Thanks,

-- Mike

 

[67Modcoupe]

Finished painting the underside chassis of the car. Nasty job...I think all of the media blasting crap ended up on the underside of the car. 50 years of grease to strip on a few sections of floorpan made it even worse.

The most effective removal tool was a wire brush wheel attached to my cordless drill, then fully wiped down to prep for POR15 Chassis Black. I wore goggles, a hat, gloves, and a mask to protect myself from falling debris. I switched to a respirator when spraying the new paint. What a mess, but the results turned out great.

I also dropped in the Spectra EFI 16 Gal tank, and it fit perfectly. I think I am going to leave it galvanized vs painting it. Car won't see any bad weather once finished.

I am going to run a thin bead of RTV black between the tank and the body for a seal - is that acceptable? Also, anyone recall the bolt size to attach the tank to the body (I think it's quantity 12). Looks like there are bolt kits available, but I can probably save a few bucks @ home depot and get it done without waiting on an online order.

A few pics attached. I've taken over most of the garage for the next week or so. I call it organized chaos. Ha! My wife is very understanding...so far.

Thanks,

-- Mike

 

[mikec35]

3m strip caulk is what's used for the gas tanks. I searched and found the factory gas tank screws are 14-10 x 3/4" hex head washer sheet metal screws. Great work by the way! Saw you mentioned your wife in the last post, I figured as much work as you are doing you were a single guy!

 

[67Modcoupe]

3m strip caulk is what's used for the gas tanks. I searched and found the factory gas tank screws are 14-10 x 3/4" hex head washer sheet metal screws. Great work by the way! Saw you mentioned your wife in the last post, I figured as much work as you are doing you were a single guy!

Thanks for the info on the caulk and screws. Will get that buttoned up this weekend.

 

[67Modcoupe]

Started working on the rear axle and 4 link set-up this weekend. I have the 9" under the car and located properly (I think!). I have the upper coilover mount installed, and according to the directions, it's important to make sure the shocks are vertical. To do this, you need to move the upper mount as far rearward as possible. The bracket can be either bolted or welded to the frame rail. I was planning on bolting it through, because I have a welder, but I am not an experienced welder. However, with the upper mount as far rearward as needed to get proper alignment of the shocks, I don't think I can get a drill to make a straight thru pass that would be required on the rearward hole, so I will weld them in. I will probably also drill the front hole and thru-bolt for an added measure of safety. Note the brackets for the upper control arm mount are labeled "Passenger" and "Driver" so you need to make sure you orient the brackets and bar properly.

Anyway, here is the mock up so far. If anyone tries to install the Rod and Custom Motorsports kit, so far the only "gotcha" I have found is with the lower bracket that mounts to the 9" axle. This is a huge bracket that holds the lower shock mount as well as the lower control arm. It sits on the spring perch, and mounds with large u-bolts to the axle tube. The spring perch has a centering hole in it, and the bracket had a large allen head bolt that fits in the hole of the spring perch to center/locate the bracket. On my axle, the bolt is way too big to fit thru the existing hole. I had to buy a drill bit and enlarge the opening of the hole on the spring perch to make it fit. Otherwise the kit has so far gone together easily.

I'll post more pics once I get the upper control arm brackets mounted, hopefully this weekend, set pinion angle, install the 3rd member and start on the brakes.

Thanks,

-- Mike

 

[67Modcoupe]

I have the four link rear end fully mounted under the car. I welded in the brackets...I had wanted to bolt them but the tight clearances under the car make it really hard to get a large drill bit at the proper angle. Here is the finished view from the rear:

I also used a plumb to measure both sides. I dropped a line from the frame rail, the outer axle housing, and the outer fender. Both sides match. Pause for a moment to recognize this small miracle.

I dropped my pics in a shared folder, hopefully they show up vs adding them as attachments...

-- Mike

 

[67Modcoupe]

i give up on attaching photos inline. Here they are attached.

 

[SVT-F100]

Looking fantabulous my man, congrats on getting this far with all the fab work. I started with suspension on my 55 truck but for my new 67 I am playing this one nice and easy.
Spindles, crossmember coil overs, rear end are all looking snazzy.
:thumbsup:

 

[67Modcoupe]

Got the rear wheels mocked up. 17x9 with 15mm offset (5.59" backspace). Gives me some room to move them around a bit. They are XXR 557. The 17x9 weigh 20.5 lbs according to my bathroom digital scale, which is pretty light, and they are very reasonable cost - about $560 including shipping for a set of 4. Will mount and balance the tires this weekend. 255/40/17 in the rear.

I got the chassis dolly out from under the car tonight, a big step, thanks to some neighbors who brought some muscle to lift the car up! This weekend I will finish assembling the 9" and the rear brakes. I bought a "LubeLocker" 3rd member gasket from Summit racing...about $20 bucks, which is crazy for a single gasket. But man, it lined up perfectly, is reusable, and doesn't require any RTV or messing around. I think it's worth the extra bucks, time will tell!

Thanks,

-- Mike

 

[mikec35]

I'm envious of your drive and pace at which you are completing these projects. I can't even find the time to pick up the papers by my recliner! Great work!

 

[mikec35]

I bought a "LubeLocker" 3rd member gasket from Summit racing...about $20 bucks, which is crazy for a single gasket. But man, it lined up perfectly, is reusable, and doesn't require any RTV or messing around. I think it's worth the extra bucks, time will tell!

Thanks,

-- Mike

I just installed a lube locker gasket on my 2008. Money well spent.

 

[Huntingky]

I just installed a lube locker gasket on my 2008. Money well spent.

Timely info, I will be putting mine together in the next month or so and was just wondering about what to use.