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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

Some of you have been waiting for me to start this thread and I apologize for the wait. I have been ironing out some issues with the base car for a bit and have finally figured how to proceed. Essentially some previous metal work left the front frame rails low causing a fender to door gap issue as well as fender to cowl gap issues. So, with the help of some others on this forum and the Ford Service Manual (FSM), I have figured out what is wrong and what to do.

First, I know this is a sensitive topic for some (converting a Coupe to a Fastback). In no way do I mean to offend anyone. My car is a good candidate for the conversion as it is severely rusted and weak from years of neglect. This is going to by my ride and stay in my family with a Coupe VIN. It is going to be built to my standards (obsessively high) and is meant to be a street car as well as being fun from the first weld to a drive in the mountains. So, if you're not a fan, please visit another build!

Secondly, I am not a body guy. I was a mechanic for a number of years and even have a degree in mechanics. I am learning as I go for this build but know that I have spent the better part of 2 years preparing for this with a ton of research and acquiring the tools needed to do the job. Personally, I have never been afraid to try something others wouldn't dream of doing even with the lack of experience. Point is: I am not afraid to do this and won't stop until I am successful with an accurate, functioning, and eye pleasing build as well as learning a new skill set.

Third, I hope you all enjoy this adventure with me. Please feel free to give advice, beg for more photos, and help with the success!

To start off, I have created a youtube channel to aid in the longer bits of the build so I don't have to wear out my keyboard. Please Subscribe!!
Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0bzrU26Pr7z6nemIIzUgyg

My original problem that has lead me to this point can be seen on this thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang.forum/1086570-1967-frame-dimension-question.html

There is some great information and some images that I put together with the FSM on that thread.

The car: The Coupe came complete out of a junkyard in Baltimore and was missing only some minor things (handles, engine brackets, etc..). The entire frame is rusted terribly and benefits from all new metal which dictated my route for the conversion. The only "good" metal was the transition pan, the rear shock crossmember, the shock towers, inner section of the doors, and the dash. Attached is the good side of the car when I picked her up. All 4 wheels were locked in place (drums) so we took a hammer to them and broke the metal off the drum portion of the brakes to get all of them to actually spin. The rear end was somewhat locked up and barely turned. Thank god for come-a-longs.

I don't get to work often on the car but when I do I will try and update as I go along with a video to follow! For the time being please enjoy the youtube channel until I can post some pics of the work I am about to do this week.

Slows
 

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I’ll be following. :wink:
 

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Slows,
It actually looks better than most North East rust belt cars. I should know, growing up in Pennsylvania and having several rusted out Mustangs from the winters and road salt. Good luck on the restoration.
Dave
 

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I know this is a sensitive topic for some (converting a Coupe to a Fastback). In no way do I mean to offend anyone.
There are a few members here that don't care much for conversions and are vocal about it (three in particular come to mind) and each is a well regarded member of VMF. Know however that their opinion of coupe to fastback conversions is their problem, not yours.

You will find plenty of interest and support for your build here. Plenty. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Slows,
It actually looks better than most North East rust belt cars. I should know, growing up in Pennsylvania and having several rusted out Mustangs from the winters and road salt. Good luck on the restoration.
Dave

Ha! This is so true. I used to inspect cars at shop in willisamsport, nasty rust!!
 

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PA Inspections

Ha! This is so true. I used to inspect cars at shop in willisamsport, nasty rust!!
Slows,
I used to be a PA vehicle Inspector in Harrisburg, PA in the late 1970s/early 1980s when we had twice a year inspections. I never thought of it before, but those bi-annual inspections might have been because of all that North East rust!
Dave
 

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Slows,
I used to be a PA vehicle Inspector in Harrisburg, PA in the late 1970s/early 1980s when we had twice a year inspections. I never thought of it before, but those bi-annual inspections might have been because of all that North East rust!
Dave
It's a big portion of why they do so many, yes (the other is tax revenue).
Living in NY, OH, and PA I've seen what salt can do to a car even only five years old, let alone fifty-five.

As fastbacks continue their march towards unobtanium, I think we'll see plenty more C-F builds. It's your car, build as you see fit.
 

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coupe to fastback

i did a coupe to fastback conversion last spring, turned out great!
The top of the coupe was removed and the fastback roof was fitted to the coupe when I bought it. the seller gave up on it. so I re-fitted the top, welded it on, looks good. Make sure the windshield fits as you go, get the rear width correct(Idid not) by installing the trunk BEFORE you weld it all together.same way with the doors. just don't get into a hurry and it will turn out nice. i was 17 when the fastback came out, had to do my duty and serve during the Vietnam bull****, so had no money. anyhow, I fainally got one. I am installing a Bogus Boss 302 with a t5 to make it fast. Have fun, it's only iron.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i did a coupe to fastback conversion last spring, turned out great!
The top of the coupe was removed and the fastback roof was fitted to the coupe when I bought it. the seller gave up on it. so I re-fitted the top, welded it on, looks good. Make sure the windshield fits as you go, get the rear width correct(Idid not) by installing the trunk BEFORE you weld it all together.same way with the doors. just don't get into a hurry and it will turn out nice. i was 17 when the fastback came out, had to do my duty and serve during the Vietnam bull****, so had no money. anyhow, I fainally got one. I am installing a Bogus Boss 302 with a t5 to make it fast. Have fun, it's only iron.

Will do! I plan to clamp everything together prior to finish welding. I do have a windshield and with my planned install route, I should be able to keep everything in the correct spot as I go along. I plan to keep the front roof brace (original) in place and do one side at a time.

I hope to start removing some metal this weekend to get the new floor supports on and in the correct spot per the Ford Service Manual. I will take some photos and do a video and get those uploaded ASAP!

Thanks!
 

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I'll be watching this too as this is my planned route to what I want. Interesting enough the original color of my base coupe was lime gold like yours but doesn't have the same rust issues as it came from the south. Post lots of pics as you go and good luck. - Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey all,

So I finally got to work on the Mustang a bit this weekend. As you know I am starting with the floor supports. I uploaded a video to my youtube channel.

I was able to remove the driver side floor support in a little over an hour and did some checking and cleanup. I ground down all the slag from gouging with my plasma cutter fit the new floor support. All in all, I like the new metal and I didn't end up needing to trim any of it to get it in place. I also plan to weld in some 2" square tubing inside the frame rail through the floor support and into the subframe connector to tie the front of the car to the back of the car. This should help strengthen the car up along with the convertible inner rockers which is a highly suggested mod with the power I plan to have.

After doing some measuring I noted that the distance between the floor supports at the locating holes is greater than what is suggested in the FSM (29.88 or 29 7/8). Because of how the crossmember attaches to the floor supports I don't think I will be able to adjust this measurement. This is not a big deal because the front frame rails inside distance between each other is 27 1/2" which is dictated by the distance from the trans tunnel crossmember. To confirm, I am going to measure my buddies 1968 Fastback to see where his floor supports sit.

One other thing, I put a digital level on the transmission mount crossmember and noted that the driver side is low by .7 degrees. Not a big deal and I will play around with it to get it a bit more level.

I am waiting on some weld through primer to prep the metal on the car and the floor supports. Should be here tomorrow.

Please check out my channel for a bit more detail! More to come. I need to figure out how to get my photos reduced down so I can upload them. File size is too big to upload..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey!

Long time since my last update. I have made some progress. I got both front frame rails positioned, attached to the jig, and partially welded to the floor supports. I have also prepped a bunch of metal and modified how I am going to progress with the car.

I ended up having to remove and disassemble the frame rail assemblies. 1 or both of them were off when I originally welded them in and I wanted to fix it. Plus, it made it much easier to work with just the frame rail instead of the entire assembly. I have also been updating my frame dimensions in SolidWorks and it has been paying out! I do plan to upload the dimensions when I am done repairing the frame portion of the car as well as any additional dimensions that I acquire from the Fastback conversion (i.e. location of the rear seat and trim brackets, not the same on the Coupe).

I have, just now, noticed an issue with the rear of the car (see photos). It appears that one of the rear quarters is a 1/4" higher than the other and looks funny from the rear. I figured that some sort of repair was done to the car. Not a big deal since all the metal is being replaced.

I am almost done editing my latest video! Check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0bzrU26Pr7z6nemIIzUgyg

Slows
 

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Hey man I'm going to convert my 67 coupe to fastback also just picked it up last week already disassembled I'm doing all of the bodywork myself, I plan on using dynacorn coupe to fastback conversion kit. Are you going to use new sheet metal or a doner car.
 

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Hey man I'm going to convert my 67 coupe to fastback also just picked it up last week already disassembled I'm doing all of the bodywork myself, I plan on using dynacorn coupe to fastback conversion kit. Are you going to use new sheet metal or a doner car.


PM me for some prices on dynacorn sheet metal. Doing this swap on a customers 67 coupe I have in the shop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey man I'm going to convert my 67 coupe to fastback also just picked it up last week already disassembled I'm doing all of the bodywork myself, I plan on using dynacorn coupe to fastback conversion kit. Are you going to use new sheet metal or a doner car.
Hey! I’m am using all new sheet metal from Dynacorn. It’s worth it in my opinion because you end up with all new metal. You will probably have to play with it a bit to make right but it’s good stuff. Be sure to build a jig. Check out my YouTube channel in my sig block.
 

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I found you on YouTube and posted a few things on there I open the account on here a couple weeks ago I believe and completely forgot about it trying to see if I can get dimensions of your jig. I did post a small video underneath of the comments on YouTube what I’m doing but not everything. I should make a build post.
 
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