No, I don't think it's heat related. It's not that close to the long tubes. The strange thing is it also is the one on the outside of the bracket that is furthest from the heat source. Good suggestion!You mentioned headers. Is this a heat issue where the rubber grommets are close to the headers?
Yes, that would probably be ideal. It would stop the float and would be absolutely positive in movement. The bracket is the weak link in this equation!I've often wondered why no one has modded the drop bracket to hold a spherical bearing......
Likely a factor in the issue as well. The boot & bushing kits that I have been using are produced by Scott Drake and set came with the new slave that I purchased. I am sending Dan-O AKA Choko my original to restore.I dont have your problem, but I have had alot of problems with the China made rubber grommets, rubber starts to dry out and crack apart with in months of installing. I feel just CHEAP made rubber. But you want find anyone will tell you that.
I took a look at that bearing and I was unable to find detailed information about load rating. Bearings like that (and hemi-joints / rod-ends) are very good at taking a load perpendicular to the bore (up-down and left-right in the photo) but are not generally designed for much load parallel to the bore (in-out in the photo). I wonder if anyone has used such a bearing. I would think that a hemi-joint mounted like an adjustable struct rod might work better.Thoughts.......
Why not reinforce the frame with a 1/4" plate "L" or "U" brace and mount a spherical bearing in a pillow block to support the fixed end of the ram?
View attachment 847288
Won't work for cars with long tube headers. Would be great if they did this in drop bracket style.Thoughts.......
Why not reinforce the frame with a 1/4" plate "L" or "U" brace and mount a spherical bearing in a pillow block to support the fixed end of the ram?
View attachment 847288
Rear shock bushings would likely work. However, not used ones. The ones supplied with the Scott Drake boot kits are very soft.I have used old shock absorber grommets that were still in decent shape for that before.
I remember those bushings, they seemed to have been made of foam rubber. Promptly threw them away and used some rear shock bushings as suggested.Rear shock bushings would likely work. However, not used ones. The ones supplied with the Scott Drake boot kits are very soft.
I've had a similar problem on my race car. The centers of the bushings bust out. I've replaced them with polyurethane bushings and they do not last long at all. I would like to try the larger bushings used for the front top shock absorber on my 1964 Falcon but no one seems to carry them.I have headers on my car and I keep having an issue with rubber grommets on the power steering cylinder coming apart.
It's a big block car with the three point drop bracket for cars with headers. Anyone else had this issue?
Nice to see you on the forum, Vic. You were beyond reproach with the sequential conversion on the Shelby.I've had a similar problem on my race car. The centers of the bushings bust out. I've replaced them with polyurethane bushings and they do not last long at all. I would like to try the larger bushings used for the front top shock absorber on my 1964 Falcon but no one seems to carry them.
I like the idea of a rod end bearing but the bracket needs to be redesigned to accommodate it.