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Anyone know how to get the 3/8 to 7/16 brake line 90 part. Goes from rear proportional valve to hardline hose to distributor on axle vent

751410
 

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Other than making your own, that little 90° piece is part of the long rear line kit.
 

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Once you get it off, I chucked one end on mine into a vice and used a good fitting open end wrench on the other end. Seems the srping inside corroads away.
 

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Not sure I understand the question,,, If removing break the lines loose, remove them, On top of the welded bracket there is a C clamp, pull out with a small flat screw driver, after you get out, put in a vise, but wrap it with a cloth, the brass will nick up if not, use vise-grip with cloth, you might have to heat with propane torch, it will turn at the split to make [2] parts, clean it up before you start, you will see the split in the brass. You will have to buy a new rebuild kit to get the o rings for the inside, There are videos to show how.
 

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I would just make one, You can get the flaring kit from any autoparts store on loan. You can buy a longer pre-made brake line with one end done, cut it and just flare the other end. Make sure you have some extra brake line to play with so you can flare a couple of times till you make nice ones that look like the ones you took off. Its easy to figure out, youtube if you have any issues. If you can get it apart without buggering up the nuts, I would reuse them. I believe that is a residual valve, not a proportioning valve in the picture. If you are going to be replacing all the brake lines, I would relocate that residual valve by the mastercylinder if you are not looking to be original. As you can see by the rebuild thread posted above, later model cars have them by the porportioning valve on the fender wall by the master cylinder. Many master cylinders have them built in. Helps eliminate the pedal drop before engaging the rear brakes, keeps alittle pressure in the lines ~10 pounds.
 

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Not sure I understand the question,,, If removing break the lines loose, remove them, On top of the welded bracket there is a C clamp, pull out with a small flat screw driver, after you get out, put in a vise, but wrap it with a cloth, the brass will nick up if not, use vise-grip with cloth, you might have to heat with propane torch, it will turn at the split to make [2] parts, clean it up before you start, you will see the split in the brass. You will have to buy a new rebuild kit to get the o rings for the inside, There are videos to show how.
Apply NO HEAT to one of these proportioning valves. Heat will melt the plastic tip pf the piston.
 

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Pretty sure he's just asking for the hard line 90. Pretty much a 'make your own' component. Send me the length of line between the nuts - use a string - and I'll see if I can knock one out for you. And to get the silly cylindrical prop valve apart, I made this block years ago. Put the valve in it, tighten two top bolts, put in vice, celebrate with beverage of choice. Why so many bolts? At first it was still connected at the bottom. Works much better as two halves.

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Apply NO HEAT to one of these proportioning valves. Heat will melt the plastic tip pf the piston.
This is true, You will melt the rubber ball and plastic, Heat as a last step,and only at the hex end. I should have stated that, They can be a problem to get inters out, there are other ways.
 

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Pretty sure he's just asking for the hard line 90. Pretty much a 'make your own' component. Send me the length of line between the nuts - use a string - and I'll see if I can knock one out for you. And to get the silly cylindrical prop valve apart, I made this block years ago. Put the valve in it, tighten two top bolts, put in vice, celebrate with beverage of choice. Why so many bolts? At first it was still connected at the bottom. Works much better as two halves.

View attachment 751516
Nice block, great ideal, much better then the vise grips
 

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Pretty sure he's just asking for the hard line 90. Pretty much a 'make your own' component. Send me the length of line between the nuts - use a string - and I'll see if I can knock one out for you. And to get the silly cylindrical prop valve apart, I made this block years ago. Put the valve in it, tighten two top bolts, put in vice, celebrate with beverage of choice. Why so many bolts? At first it was still connected at the bottom. Works much better as two halves.

View attachment 751516
Yes, pretty easy to make. I think some of the OP's confusion is that although the line is 3/16" there are 2 different sized tube nuts used, like between the M/C and distribution block. One is a standard 3/16" tube nut with 3/8-24 thread and the other, I believe is a 7/16-24 thread.
 

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I would also go to the parts store and rent, buy or borrow a DOUBLE flare nut kit. The double flare is better to protect from leaking.
 
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