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Discussion Starter #1
Hi !


I have started restoration of 67' convertible V8 for few months. Car is complete and most of the parts are OEM :smile2:. Problem is very common... rust. I have already disassembly all items and now waiting for body man to start changing steel parts. Before he want to do sandblasting and put epoxy on it.

In meantime I want to take care about all other stuff.

Alternator and starter I have already renovated by myself, and also fuel tank (yes I know it is quite cheap, but I want to stay with OEM), I used special chemistry set, including epoxy to make it solid.



1. Electrical wires - all seems to be fine, no damage on cables or plugs :surprise::wink:.
I have cleaned it and change old plastic tape (black ones which outer all cables in wire) to material tape (I have seen in modern cars) on just inside cables- is it good idea ? I have a plan to put those wires in black plastic electrical conduct especially those in engine compartment - it is worth or maybe any other suggestions ?



2. Carburettor - I have Autolite 2100 (2V). I gave it renovation, but they said that it need major repairs, which cost me ca 350$. For this price I think I can buy new one. Any recommendation here ?

I dont want to tune up and go for 4V. What is the Best 1:1 replacement suggestion ?
 

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Welcome ! !
Please post pictures of your car. We LOVE pictures.
1) If the wires are still soft and easily flexed and have no corrosion, you can re-wrap them with friction tape or quality electrical tape, and it is a good idea to use conduit to protect them especially under the hood. If the wires are hard or seem brittle, you can replace them with reproduction pieces that are not terribly expensive.
2) the Autolite 2100 carburetor is a very simple carburetor and is also one of the most efficient and reliable ever built. I suggest you can get a rebuild kit for it and a couple of cans of quality cleaning spray, and rebuild the carburetor yourself in a very short time. My son and I rebuilt his on a rainy day. I do not believe there is a finer 2-barrel carb on the planet for a street-driven car. Enjoy!
 

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I would say to get a Chilton's Repair & Tune-Up Guide for Mustangs from 1965-1973. I have one and it contains carburetor tuneup instructions and a very good exploded view of the carburetors themselves if you plan on rebuilding it. Yes it does contain the Autolite 2v 2100 carburetor in it and instructions on how to tune it and adjust stuff like the float level on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome ! !
Please post pictures of your car. We LOVE pictures.
I want to open a new thread with pictures and renovation description, but actually I have not found correct category.

1) If the wires are still soft and easily flexed and have no corrosion, you can re-wrap them with friction tape or quality electrical tape, and it is a good idea to use conduit to protect them especially under the hood. If the wires are hard or seem brittle, you can replace them with reproduction pieces that are not terribly expensive.
No need to replace anything except battery cable, which I simply buy new ones.
Thanks for your confirmation !

2) the Autolite 2100 carburetor is a very simple carburetor and is also one of the most efficient and reliable ever built. I suggest you can get a rebuild kit for it and a couple of cans of quality cleaning spray, and rebuild the carburetor yourself in a very short time. My son and I rebuilt his on a rainy day. I do not believe there is a finer 2-barrel carb on the planet for a street-driven car. Enjoy!
I think it is not so simple with old and never restored device. I have such rebuild kit:
https://www.npdlink.com/product/rebuild-kit-carburetor-70-73-choke-pull-off-diaphragm-sold/107438?backurl=search/products?search_terms=9A586-6&top_parent=200001&year=

That guy who checked my carburettor said that it needs: planning, change of throttle (those metal pads are not ideal closes), repair of choke (smb changed it for manual) + he mentioned few more tasks which I am unable to translate :|. He assured me that after such complete restoration it is like a new. From other point of view I heard that sometime it is still much harder to adjust it on the engine if we compare with brand new.

Cleaning, surface renovation + gasket change I can do by myself, no problem .. but as I understand my needs something more.

I would say to get a Chilton's Repair & Tune-Up Guide for Mustangs from 1965-1973. I have one and it contains carburetor tuneup instructions and a very good exploded view of the carburetors themselves if you plan on rebuilding it. Yes it does contain the Autolite 2v 2100 carburetor in it and instructions on how to tune it and adjust stuff like the float level on it.
I have this book, even I have checked it few days before. What I found there is just adjustment (idle rpm, fuel level, etc)
 

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The carburetor rebuild kit has all the instructions and settings you need. The metal pads or blades have been fine in every case I have ever seen unless the carburetor has been allowed to sit open to the elements and those have rusted, and you can buy a remanufactured one that would be a direct swap of the same kind of carb, if desired. They are VERY easy to set.
 

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First you mentioned "restoration". Fixing a car up, IS NOT restoration. So, the wiring: There is stuff sold (check in NPD's catalog) to recover the wires. Using the plastic stuff will not look good unless there is a pile of other modified stuff under the hood.
The carb: If the $350 includes replating the carb and such, that is good. If there is a carb tag on it, check that it already has the correct carb. Buying a new carb, you might end up with a universal tuned one that also fits Fairlanes, Falcons, and Galaxies.
Information: Buy the Ford factory service manual. A new one is about $45.00 bucks. (another thing NPD has.)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
First you mentioned "restoration". Fixing a car up, IS NOT restoration. So, the wiring: There is stuff sold (check in NPD's catalog) to recover the wires. Using the plastic stuff will not look good unless there is a pile of other modified stuff under the hood.
Maybe I am wrong, but they were plastic :), my cables are outer by plastic tape with FoMoCo tags in some places:


It looks like OEM, what I did I have just replaced old, dirty plastic tape to fabric or plastic tape. Additional I want to add conduct/plastic pipe, knows from nowadays cars. I agree that this is something extra, which not looks like restoration.



The carb: If the $350 includes replating the carb and such, that is good. If there is a carb tag on it, check that it already has the correct carb. Buying a new carb, you might end up with a universal tuned one that also fits Fairlanes, Falcons, and Galaxies.

Yes it include everything. Anyway Today I have found another specialist which said "50$", he will clean it, change everything from carb. rebuild set, check if it ok and preadjust it. If it will not work I think I will go with new.
Tab is on it:





Information: Buy the Ford factory service manual. A new one is about $45.00 bucks. (another thing NPD has.)

Yes I think I bought all of possible books and this one is very helpful. I have used during starter and alternator regeneration.
 

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Actually, your wiring look really good. The harness tags are also available. Try this: Clean it with a rag and some 3M wax remove, not laquer thinner.
The carb guy: at $50.00 I'm guessing all you are going to get is the carb washed and a rebuild kit installed. Check the throttle plate pivots in the lower plate. Those have a habit of wearing, then sucking a small amount of air, leaning out the mixture. A great carb place can reseal those plates or replace ther shafts.
Good luck.
 

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Actually, your wiring look really good. The harness tags are also available. Try this: Clean it with a rag and some 3M wax remove, not laquer thinner.
The carb guy: at $50.00 I'm guessing all you are going to get is the carb washed and a rebuild kit installed. Check the throttle plate pivots in the lower plate. Those have a habit of wearing, then sucking a small amount of air, leaning out the mixture. A great carb place can reseal those plates or replace ther shafts.
Good luck.
He's in Poland...who knows what gets you a good carb job there.
 

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That's good as my last name is Polish too. But I can't speak a word of it. But, I don't think he's going to show up at an MCA National either.
 

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I would say to get a Chilton's Repair & Tune-Up Guide for Mustangs from 1965-1973. I have one and it contains carburetor tuneup instructions and a very good exploded view of the carburetors themselves if you plan on rebuilding it. Yes it does contain the Autolite 2v 2100 carburetor in it and instructions on how to tune it and adjust stuff like the float level on it.

i would recommend that the above mentioned book not be purchased. instead get a factory shop manual available from most mustang parts vendors.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got carburettor back. It was cleaned outside and inside, all gaskets was changed and all stuff was checked. Cost was 50$, so it is acceptable.Anyway there is one problem with it, somebody tried to mod a choke.From automatic to manual.
Now I need this bi-metal part which control choke open angle and a cap (with adjustment).
Can I buy such repair kit ?
What I can see it just conversion kits:
and caps for Edelblock:

It will not fit OEM carb ?
This is how it looks:
736426

736427
 

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I have the hardware that you need to mount it as well. Send me your address in a private message and I will get that together and send it to you. I'm sure I have the Choke Thermostat in the parts stash as well. You will need to get the Choke Stove pipes to connect to the exhaust manifold and carb for it to work correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks !
I have 2100 carb, so as I understand first 3 positions are ok ?
As see I have diff cap with connector to control cable, which was installed under ashtray (This was strange because in car manual there was no choke button /control knob). So when I removed this black cap and put this with thermostat is just P&P ? So the rest inside choke (like on my picture) will stay that same ?
I know that I need a pipe to connect with warm air.

BTW. What can be the purpose to change from automatic choke to manual :unsure:
 

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BTW. What can be the purpose to change from automatic choke to manual :unsure:
LOL. Usually the change is made when the automatic choke fails to work anymore and the owner is too lazy (or ignorant) to fix it. The common problems include the thermostatic spring losing its "thermostaticness" and the steel choke tubes rotting off the exhaust manifold (or somebody installed headers and didn't know how to hook up a choke stove (lol). Not so common a problem is corrosion inside the choke housing that causes the unloader piston to stick in its bore, preventing the choke from cracking open on startup, which causes lots of chugging and black smoke until the choke opens from heat.
 

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Manual chokes work great. The Hipo 289s had manual chokes. You just have to remember to pull out for start and push in after warm up. The choke on my old 85 RX7 had a thermal release so it would self open after a short time of driving. The automatic chokes can be a pain to set up, but work great as long as they are clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Manual chokes work great. The Hipo 289s had manual chokes. You just have to remember to pull out for start and push in after warm up. The choke on my old 85 RX7 had a thermal release so it would self open after a short time of driving. The automatic chokes can be a pain to set up, but work great as long as they are clean.
I know, I had Fiat in 90' with manual choke. As I understand it is a matter of clean it.
BTW. I have send you a priv.
 

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If your rebuilt 2100 carburetor ends up not working well, consider a Holley Street Avenger 80350. I recently installed one on a C code 289 with a worn out 2100. The improvement was immediate and significant. Starts easier, idles smoother, and runs better at all throttle openings. While universal, it is a direct replacement and the only modification needed was the clip holding the throttle linkage to the carburetor.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think I know why smb changed a choke :

737301


Beside automatic choke cover, there is hot air pipe, which should be connected here. I don't see any thread in this old manifold, so how this hot air pipe for choke should be connected ?

Few days ago I have disassembled the engine to get it for engine workshop to rebuild it (My Volvo was true hybrid last days with two engines and 400HP :D). One of part which I need to buy by myself is timing chain, this is what I found inside:
737302


I have searched CjPony and found out that COMP timing chain is similar, is it good choice ?

Also I have to renew engine/gearbox seperator, which now looks like:
737303


It has a little bit of rust and blue paint on it. So is it visible out of engine ?
How to protect it ? Put zink on it or pain it (engine will blue) ?
 
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