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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1967 T/A Group II Clone Build Thread

I've been meaning to start a build thread for quite some time. I am building a 1967 coupe to compete primarily in the various vintage Mexican endurance tarmac rallies like la Carrera Panamericana, the Chihuahua Express, and the Rally Historico Transpeninsular. Although these are vintage races, they are sanctioned by the Mexican Rally Federation and require a purpose built race car with a full cage and safety equipment. Other build requirements include stock(ish) suspension, drivetrain, and 15x7 wheels. They do not allow superchargers or alloy headed motors, and require the use of a 600 CFM carb with CID of 306 or smaller (except chevys they get up to 327 because they need the extra cubes to compete haha). Although I have been building Mustangs since I was 15, this is my first race car, and would appreciate any input!

Here is the car the day I purchased it:


The car had a 351 Cleveland and an FMX transmission, so that had to go to make room for the 289 and Toploader:


Once all that was out of the way, I got started ripping it apart and repairing the rust damage. The floors both needed replacement. Driverside torque box and firewall, quarter panels, wheel wells, trunk drop offs, and fender aprons all needed work. I also added a passenger side torque box while I was in there.


Here is a quick timelapse of replacing the quarter panels, wheel wells, and trunk drop off panels. If you're dreading this, look how fast and easy it was! :) You will also note that I used '68 quarter panels even though the car is a '67. This was done for a couple of reasons. One was cost, the other is that I am planning on adding quarter scoops and rear brake cooling ducts at some point so the smooth '68 quarters made the most sense.

<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HmdFwZ_Qjp4" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After completing (most) of the bodywork, I got rid of all the glass and other heavy nonsense that I will not be needing in a race car and got started on the roll cage. This is where the project starts to be fun. The sanctioning body requires a pretty serious cage - they recommend building to NASA rules plus any additions to "impress" the tech guy. Here is the rule book I based my cage on: https://www.nasarallysport.com/rules-forms/2012-NASA-Rally-Sport-GRR-Appendix-B.pdf . I used 1.75x.120 tubing throughout. Here are some photos:




 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The roll cage is technically an 8 point cage with contact points on the front torque boxes, floors, rear torque boxes, and rear frame rail. I added an "X" brace in the ceiling, doors, main hoop, and rear support bars, "toyota" bars in the door openings, header bar, and a bar under the dash. It also has harness bars behind both the driver and navigator seats. All contact points have a 6"x6" .125 steel plate. I added gussets on the Toyota bars, main hoop support brace, and rear rear support brace bars. It is a little over the top, but should have no problems passing tech, and more importantly should be safe.

because of the decreased head room with the "X" bar, I lowered the seat pans 1" and will use Corbeau's Forza Sport FIA seats.



I also added dimple die gussets from the roll cage to the A pillars for a little extra rigidity.
 

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Awsomeness.
With that much cage i wonder if CV inner rockers or torque boxes matter?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awsomeness.
With that much cage i wonder if CV inner rockers or torque boxes matter?
I'm hoping the answer is "not much" since I didn't bother adding the CV inner rockers or seat pan. I opted out of subframe connectors for the same reason. I don't see any benefit and want to keep weight as low as possible (especially considering all of the 1.75x.120 DOM everywhere). I did add torque boxes to tie everything together and provide a sturdy platform for the cage to mount to since the floor doesn't provide much rollover protection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Rules do require a fuel cell in my class and being that they are "endurance" rallies, I opted for a 20 gallon aluminum cell with a sump and foam filling. Rules do not require an SFI cell, so this will be sufficient.



I fabbed up some steel straps and "hung" the cell down into the trunk opening to lower the center of gravity and also give me more trunk space (since I will need to have room for a spare tire and my overnight bags). Here it is mocked up before paint. I cut the "shroud" from aluminum sheeting.


Here is the trunk all painted. The color is Destroyer Gray from Eastman's. I am doing the engine bay and interior this same color as well.



And here it is all finished off with the shroud and retaining straps in place. To finish off the fuel system, I ran new 3/8" hardline from the cell all the way to the engine bay. I will still need to get a breather hose and check valve, but overall, I am happy with how it turned out.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm planning on dropping the block off at the machine shop next week. I am sticking with the 289 crank and rods. Iron heads (180cc intake, 1.94 and 1.60 valves, and a Victor Jr intake. Leaning towards the Comp Cams 294S cam. Has anyone ran that before in a 289?
 

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See about upgrading the rod bolts, Im pretty sure its a machining to the OE rod, 5/16 to 3/8", known to make a huge strength difference when spinning high RPMs.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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The issue with changing stock 289 rods to 3/8" is the material around the bolt gets a bit thin. Not saying it can't be done...buuuuut you could also leave the rods alone and change to ARP 5/16". Now if you have B2 rods or HiPo rods...you're good already. However, I'm sure you already know all of this.
 

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Dimples
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Looking good man. I dig the proposed paint scheme. I like the idea of the bottom portion looking dipped into the blue paint. Pretty cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The issue with changing stock 289 rods to 3/8" is the material around the bolt gets a bit thin. Not saying it can't be done...buuuuut you could also leave the rods alone and change to ARP 5/16". Now if you have B2 rods or HiPo rods...you're good already. However, I'm sure you already know all of this.
My street car has 3/8 rod bolts, but I will discuss with the machine shop and see if I can get away with that with these rods, or if 5/16 arp will be sufficient. Seems like there are a lot of people out there spinning crazy rpms with 5/16 ARP rod bolts.
 

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That's the best thing, talk to your shop. We have better parts now so with a good set of 5/16" bolts may be all you need and may be the strongest path. Now, I just throwing out there, ask about getting the engine internally balanced. SilverbluePB had his engine let go. The crank broke between the front main and 1&5 main journal. That seems to be a common failure point. I've seen cranks broken like this on other forums. I believe Mark said he feels it's more of an issue on road race where the engine rpm is up and down, not so much an issue in a street or drag car. Again I'm not mentioning this from any of my experience or knowledge just passing it along.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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^Not saying Mark’s mishap isn’t or could be a common problem. However, I believe Mark’s engine had several race seasons on it prior to said breakage.
 
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