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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, just going over my front brakes and going to replace the hardware (Sliders, rubber. Have less braking on one side, it's driving me nuts). Looking at the 'shield/stabilizer', it looks like the PO cut them to slide them over the flex hose.

To install new ones, upon first glance it looks like the hose has to be disconnected. Is this the case? (In which case I won't be doing it). I assume these are some sort of 'anti rattle/vibration' device?

Thanks guys

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Yes, the hose has to come off. If you do the job, that'll give you an opportunity to flush and bleed the front brakes, which might help with the uneven braking. You can reuse the washers on the hose, just clean them well with brake cleaner and put them back the way they came off.

FWIW, these are not going to cause or remedy the braking issue that you're having. If bleeding the calipers doesn't help, I'd look into if the caliper is partially seized or there's an issue with the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. Ahh, these have been cracked and bled 5 times in 5 years. Everything is new (well, 5000miles). Hardlines, flex lines, calipers, pads, master (different masters to fine tune bore size. Same results each time). Caliper piston moves smooth. Brake pressure is identical in each caliper (as measured at the bleeder valve, at least). Different pads tried. I think my last option is sticking hardware (also 'new' but pretty stiff). I only ask about the shields since I have the caliper dangling at the moment.
 

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OK, so it's pulling the steering wheel to one side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. Yes, LH will lock up, and pull to that side during a panic stop. Can't get the RH to lock (well, I've never tried too hard, as I don't want to go sliding 50 feet with the lh wheel locked up. :D

As mentioned, everything is new, everything checks out (except, I feel the slider pins going into the rubber are far too hard to insert. If the rubber 'boots/condoms' are out of the caliper, I can insert the pins. Once the rubber is in the caliper, it's too tight for the bolts, so that's something I just noticed taking it all apart. Although one would suspect the hydraulics could overpower very tight hardware, but maybe not? Not rust seized, just too tight. Maybe the rubber boots are out of spec? Can't remember which brand I bought years ago) and pressures at the calipers are the same.

No prop valve for the fronts, only a Tee (rear is on their own circuit with an adjustable prop valve).
 

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Both caliper bleeders face the rear of the car?

If the pins don't fit into the rubber insulators, then something is wrong there. Use a wire brush and clean out their holes really well. New parts are dirt cheap, maybe get another set of both. Ford says not to use grease on them, I just put a touch to make installation easier.

A good test to see if one side has air is to tap the brakes quickly. You'll see the wheel jerk a bit to the good side, then center back up as the air compresses on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
New pins and insulators. I used dielectric grease this time instead of brake lube. Seems a lot more slippy. Front brakes re-bled.

Too bad the ground is covered with salt. Sort of wish I threw on some DD pads while I'm this far in. Oh well.
 

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Any chance one side has a bent spindle pin? Bad strut rod bushing on one side? Gunk in the distribution block?
 

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Any chance one side has a bent spindle pin? Bad strut rod bushing on one side? Gunk in the distribution block?
all of the above.
The answer will result from the breaking of the lines to the various sections to find what area is receiving pressure to the brakes. SIMPLE deduction.
No pressure, NO BRAkes.
 

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all of the above.
The answer will result from the breaking of the lines to the various sections to find what area is receiving pressure to the brakes. SIMPLE deduction.
No pressure, NO BRAkes.
Chock, he said he tested and got the same pressure on both calipers.

JohnnyK, do you know for a fact the right caliper is not locking up, or is that an assumption because the steering is pulling to the left when you brake? It is possible you have a suspension problem, not a braking problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys. (Yes, as Flade mentioned, I have tested pressures. We're not guessing from nothing, here).

Also, I can feel the left locking and see the skid marks! :) BUT, let's try this now with new hardware installed. Just have to find a nice day with no salt on the roads. I have looked over all this suspension (which was installed 5000mi ago) and everything looks good.

I'm banking (hoping) on seized up/tight (yet new) hardware.
 
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