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1968 Shelby
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I understand other than filing points do not try "fixing" an original clock. NPD has a Scott Drake repop. a Quartz conversion kit and a "similar looking" clock with its own AA battery holder ie no plug in. Anyone have any experience with these options?
 

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My 67 is still running the orig mechanical clock. I opened it up, tiny piece of EMERY paper (it's very fine) cleaned contact points, then using a needle placed drop of machine light weight oil on moving parts.
Still running.
 

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I have been able to get every single old clock going again that I’ve messed with except one. In all cases, the movement was simply frozen due to sitting, moisture, corrosion, etc. A little lubricating has done the trick. I got some synthetic clock oil on eBay, and just put a small drop in the moving parts. You can then wind it by hand by pulling back on the spring-loaded “shuttle” that the points usually engages, and in my case, off they go. There is an adjustment cam for speeding up or slowing down the movement.

to be extra proper, you can take the whole thing apart for a cleaning of the mechanism prior to lubricating. A very skilled forum member on another site did an amazing step-by-step of a clock servicing out of his ‘66 Galaxie. The basics are the same for most auto clocks of this era. I’ll find the link...

here it is...p9 (what an amazing overall build)
 

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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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I have been able to get every single old clock going again that I’ve messed with except one. In all cases, the movement was simply frozen due to sitting, moisture, corrosion, etc. A little lubricating has done the trick. I got some synthetic clock oil on eBay, and just put a small drop in the moving parts. You can then wind it by hand by pulling back on the spring-loaded “shuttle” that the points usually engages, and in my case, off they go. There is an adjustment cam for speeding up or slowing down the movement.

to be extra proper, you can take the whole thing apart for a cleaning of the mechanism prior to lubricating. A very skilled forum member on another site did an amazing step-by-step of a clock servicing out of his ‘66 Galaxie. The basics are the same for most auto clocks of this era. I’ll find the link...
I'd really like to see that link...Thanks
 

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I rewound the solenoid on mine and have bench tested it and it appears to be working. I have installed it back in the dash but have yet to install battery back in the car yet. From my understanding, if the internals of the clock are in good shape, a fine cleaning and lubrication using recommended clock oil will work wonders. My solenoid windings were burnt and I understand it happens a lot if the car has been sitting and the battery runs down to the point of not enough current to operate the solenoid which actually rewinds the main spring. Sometimes the points get stuck closed and the current then just burns up the windings. I have also installed an inline 1 amp fast blow fuse, so hopefully the fuse will blow first if this happens again. I might have to get the quartz clock eventually if this fix don’t pan out. I think they sell a kit to relocate the battery to somewhere where you can get to it, but not sure about the adjustment of the time on the clock. Most quartz battery operated clocks I’ve seen have the time adjustment on the back of the clock, which would mean removing the gauge cluster to reset the time
 

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1967 GT500
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I put in a Scott Drake quartz that uses the wiring harness and it worked great on my 1967 coupe
 

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If skybob or skybob1 is still on ebay, he does them.
I think rocketman here on VMF does (unsure of spelling).
 

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I used the repro quartz one and it’s been running and keeping perfect time for over a year.
 

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Guess for some it's "how orig" you want car to be.
An orig clock, the minute hand has a "ticking" motion, the quartz one has a "sweeping motion".

I was at a car show once, an actually watch judges trying to differentiate between to very nice late 60's stangs. It came down to one had orig "ticking clock" other "quartz". orig clock won....
 

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If skybob or skybob1 is still on ebay, he does them.
I think rocketman here on VMF does (unsure of spelling).
skybob/skybob1 hasn't been available in years. I am guessing he passed away because none of the clocks I sent him were returned, none of the parts I had spoken to him about and ordered arrived, no one returns emails or phone calls and registered mail was refused/not picked up. If someone is claiming to be him or selling his stuff I would love to know about it.
 

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I kept the OE clock in my Rally Pac running for over 20 years. Only when the winding coil fried did I convert it to quartz movement.
 

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skybob/skybob1 hasn't been available in years. I am guessing he passed away because none of the clocks I sent him were returned, none of the parts I had spoken to him about and ordered arrived, no one returns emails or phone calls and registered mail was refused/not picked up. If someone is claiming to be him or selling his stuff I would love to know about it.
Hate to hear of anyone's passing, or even letting go of an old skill. He repaired an old Rally Pac clock for me years ago. The points were just sticking. It still sticks sometimes, but @22GT it still runs!
@TheRktmn Are you the one that does the ammeter conversions etc? I am a fan of your work if so, and would like to get a couple done!
 

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I used to use David Lindquist (auto clock doc) but he also passed away in 2020....
 

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1968 Shelby
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks to Kelly Sedars and others. I filed points, blew out dirt, oiled pivots and kept wiggling the flywheel (?) It freed up and has been going 32 hours now. Once I feel confident it will stay running I'll reinstall. I will have the car 25 years later this month and its the 1st time the original clock has worked.
 
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