Sounds nice. Love the exhaust work.
Thanks! I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out given what I had to work with. I was honestly surprised how well those Flow-FX do in terms of actually...well...quieting things down LOL. They're basically a straight through muffler so I had my reservations. If they're not enough though, I think "plan C" is going to be add some smaller neighbor haters in-line before the exits (there's enough room basically under the rear seat pan) or if that's still not enough then I can always exit out the back just so they point away from the sound meters.Sounds nice. Love the exhaust work.
Correct. I know each track has different levels but I think most of them here in the southeast do not or are very high. Local SCCA has a "within reasonable" limit that they are willing to work with you on, this would be fine for that. From what I've been able to find, Road ATL is 98, CMP is 100 after 6pm, Reobling I think is 103, etc. Most of these I'm not too worried about. I'll also have ample time to test locally here at some AutoX events and see what my noise levels actually are but I didn't want to put all the work in and then have to drastically change things just to meet sound.This is a track car right?
Charlotte, NC metro area. In some regards that makes it real convenient for a lot of this! I've got great access to things like raw materials because of the NASCAR presence here and in Mooresville. It also can be a burden though, in the example of the rollcage I've found a few guys I'd like to use but most of them are busy up to their gills. Lots of other dirt track and other racing in the area so it seems like most of the good fab shops have pretty consistent buisiness. I'll admit for the cage I haven't given it a LOT of priority yet, I want to make sure I've got the car in a good state before handing it off to the fabricator.Where are you located?
Thanks for the resource, I'll have to check them out. How do you like your fitment, is it a full 6 point with a halo bar? The cage is something I've been giving a lot of thought to, and honestly its part of the reason I haven't put a lot of external effort towards it yet. This might be a little long-winded but in the interest of documentation and I'll list out the general pros and cons in my mind:
I think the fit is great. Mine is actually a 8 point with additional cross to the rear down bars, foot bars, and yes full halo.
This might weigh into your decision, my cage cost $3500. However, he also did the seat structure and the fuel cell structure. I find peace in that price knowing it is a certified NASA/SCCA fabricated by a racer himself. The pride in his work is off the charts. It will pass any inspection I put it through.
I know many can and will say you can just buy a bolt in/weld in “kit” and do the same thing. Nope.
Thanks! I don't have as much experience as some of the experimental home-builders but I did hang out around the airport a lot and had the chance to help out with other guy's projects and/or modifications and updates to one of ours. The things like wire lacing and safety wiring fasteners always made me groan as a younger fella but I'm happy now i learned them lolol. The first few automotive harnesses I did, I just went straight to braided sleeve and heat shrink. It never fails you'll end up having to change something or bodge something in and it is a PAAAAAAIN in the arse to try and get wire through that sleeve, usually just quicker to cut off and do-over. After that I learned real quick to use lacing instead. Even if it's not the final presentation its much easier to test and add in wires if needed. Also keeps me from slicing myself all over with zipties.You’ve done some very impressive work.
Love the wire lacing.
I used the Mega Squirt connector on my EFI system. I just put it right through the firewall. I did not use any Deutsch connectors, only Mega Squirt.I’d appreciate any info on the bulkhead connector through the firewall, including how you do the aluminum plate. I’m planning on deutsch as well for a mega squirt (sequential port injection) install on my 67 coupe but am a little unsure on which connectors I can get to fit there comfortably. I think a 35 pin will probably handle what I want, but have considered using several rectangular connectors to keep things tidy and maybe less unruly.
Thanks, and will do! I'm going to use a 12 or 14 GA AL plate the size of the HVAC blower hole. The existing mounting holes for the HVAC blower will get rivnuts and that will fasten the plate. For the connector I'm planning on using a HD30 connector in the 24-19 configuration. That will give me 6 size 12 pins (12-14 AWG) and then 13 size 16 pins (generally 16-20 AWG). The larger size 12 I'm going to use for headlights and fans, which are going to be my largest current draws. That would be enough pins to fit all my engine wiring and chassis wiring into one. If i use a single connector, I would have to include a second in-line connector for the chassis wiring. That would allow me to disconnect things at the firewall and leave the engine harness all attached if I need to diagnose or pull anything. I'm still toying with if I want to do two smaller connectors from the HD10 series family for that reason. The second in-line connector would be for chassis wiring only so any potential "failure points" would be relatively non-critical failures which is why I'm leaning towards just using the single connector.I’d appreciate any info on the bulkhead connector through the firewall, including how you do the aluminum plate. I’m planning on deutsch as well for a mega squirt (sequential port injection) install on my 67 coupe but am a little unsure on which connectors I can get to fit there comfortably. I think a 35 pin will probably handle what I want, but have considered using several rectangular connectors to keep things tidy and maybe less unruly.
Also an option. For anyone else following the Megasquirt bulkhead connector is a Delphi/Weatherpack style. 22 position and fits a 12AWG to 20AWG wire. AFAIK, that is the only solution weatherpack offers for a "compact" bulkhead (there are other with a higher pin count). Another for anyone looking are also any of the Amphenol connectors. Much like the deutsch connectors, there are quite a few configurations. Additionally, at the time of writing this, Deutsch and Amphenol are both owned by TE.I used the Mega Squirt connector on my EFI system. I just put it right through the firewall. I did not use any Deutsch connectors, only Mega Squirt.
The second shot shows location but not all the way seated yet.
I wouldn't call Mouser/Digikey/Newark/Binder or any of the other big distributors a "specialty company" by any means. Maybe I'm just weird? I buy a lot of electronics stuff for other projects so maybe I have a different perspective. For the price on the pins, it also depends on what series connector you get, some of the deutsch pins can get up into the $0.8-$0.9 each for the standard lines. If you're talking about more than that it must have been something specialty. As an example, once you start getting into the "autosport" line those pins will run up into the $2 each price depending on the reseller. However we're way past anything hobbyist grade at that point and my meat claws are too cumbersome to deal with those small things anyway lolol. I don't mean this to rag on weatherpack but they are the more economic of all those I listed, there's no doubt about that. However performance wise I'll be real surprised if I ever have a deutsch connector fail. For anything "we" do around here though a properly terminated weatherpack is just fine.Amphenol is serious stuff. You will pay for it and probably be forced to go through specialty companies or digi key to get it. I think last time I priced out some pins that I saw around work, they were about 5$ a piece (gold plated).
Edit: I see lots of reasonably priced amphenol stuff on buydeutsch.com. These may be their automotive product lines. Idk
I’m most curious about the best place to put something the size of the HD30 on the firewall. My car is not track only so I wanted a clean install. I was also hoping to keep it away from the exhaust as much as possible.
In regards to running power through the firewall, I don’t plan to do much of that. The 35 pin hd30 is mostly 20 gage. I put a fuse and relay box up front next to the radiator, so that handles all my power distribution.
Thanks for the feedback folks!