Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone.

About myself. I like cars, I work in IT, and rebuilt/tune broken toys is my hobby and a little mind outlet.

I always liked 1968 Fastback design but
a) too expensive for a good one
b) bad ones were expensive and bunch of serious problems
c) i never was too big fan of the coupe (sorry to all the owners, I just liked Fastback more)

It wouldn't be possible to start this project if I would want to keep things original but I always was buying cars for fun, not to keep them in a museum.

A few years ago I started to see around videos coupe to fastback conversions and I decided to try one day myself.

I said, I better to buy car cheap, then invest money into new parts instead of giving away difference in ~25k to some person just to have it. So Coupe to Fastback idea settled down.

Last June, I was looking for a car that I would use as a donor for a conversion. I said, let it be rusted in the right places that I will cut out anyways. I should have a clean proper title. and..
I found one. It was a bit expensive, some rust around but it already had front brake conversion, was running, plus the interior wasn't too bad. Alright I said and bought this.

Car Wheel Tire Vehicle Land vehicle


the doors, fenders, rear fenders had a lot of rust, the rest was okay. IDropped on my 19" wheels. Took off 350GT rims and put them away to sell in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Obvy 19 inch 10.5 wide +35 offset rims didn't work too well with Shelby Drop and very old rear leaf springs. Car couldn't move. Plus I almost bent my front fenders and cut the tires because the wheels went even lower and I didn't roll the fenders yet.

So I jumped on Amazon and bought some Chinese fender roller, which had many bad reviews but was cheap and for some reason worked for me just fine.

Then I got front no-name coilovers (as a temporary solution before complete front+rear suspension upgrade which I plan to do with the engine upgrade), new leaf springs from cj and eibah 35mm spacers. Dropped car from jacks, viola everything worked just fine and handles great (just too light with the power steering).

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know it was unnecessary @ this point to get a new steering wheel but I couldn't get out of the bucket seats without wiggling like a worm.
Plus I really didn't like Grant GT half rusted steering wheel.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Speedometer Car


And even on a picture it looks not too bad, it looks and feels like cheap crap.
I decided to swap it on something else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had 2 problems. I wanted to keep racing type steering wheel ~14 inch, it should be deep dish and I needed to do something about getting out of the car freely.

I always liked MOMO designs and quick release would help me get out of the car no problem. So I ordered NRG 6 bolt quick release, and Mod 08 MOMO racing wheel.
When it came, the center mark was off. What a disaster. I reordered same steering wheel 3 times until MOMO brand contacted me and actually manually controlled that I will get the right steering wheel.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle


Got it together but realized that I need 3 bolt to 6 bolt adapter. Ordered it from CJ and in a few days I took off the old steering wheel, almost set the car on fire (didn't realize how tight horn cables sit). Had to cut the end of the steering column bolt a bit to avoid contact with 12v cables.

Viola, it was done.

Car Vehicle Speedometer Automotive lighting Motor vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I still was having an issue with humming sound on the right side without any luck after switching out/inner bearings, and luck of power / hesitation on low RPM (I have a tachometer in the dashboard so it was visible).On higher it was just fine.

It was hard to start moving on drive and rear (car would drop rpm and stall), but after 2k rpm it would be fine. N was fine, on the road was fine just that problem right after the start.
Last sunday car didn't want to start and I will do my exploration of the problem this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sucks when you ordered all the parts for the conversion and just a few parts for it still backordered.
The whole fastback sits in the room except those few parts and waiting for it so I could start the work.
Home appliance Flooring Automotive design Gas Wood


Luckily I still have to to fix no-start issue so it will make me busy for some time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For tomorrow fix I have new coils, spark plugs, fuel filter.
I will look into if the pump still alive, if not I was advised to get Carter M4009 which was designed for earlier years but ppl say it's better to get that one even it's not designed for 1968 specifically but due to it's 289 block it should work just fine (lmk if it's wrong).
I will check sparks condition.
Will inspect carburetor (who knows what I should inspect there but I will try my best).
Will check tranny fluid levels.
(the battery is new, starter spins the engine just doesn't turn on)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
A lot of rust around the panels made me grind and sand it all over the body.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood


Self itching primer + wax&grease remover first made Mustang look post apocalyptic.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire

Then I used 2K sealer to avoid any rust-through situation. I expect it to hold until two last items for my conversion project will be here (quarter/door frame assembly kit driver side and rear roof brace).

I don't know what color it will be, which is a matter for a discussion (let me know your thoughts).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Sunday morning the weather was good most of the day and I had a chance to dive into a problem with no start issue.


Before to start any repairs I always check if the magic will work and the magic didn't work, again. The car didn't start and I popped the hood.

I removed the air filter and found that inside of the carburetor was pitch black. I picked a can of the carburetor cleaner in AutoZone, sprayed it a few times. Then I turned the key and the car started. Yes! There were some misfires (see the video, a needle on the tachometer jumping a bit) but it worked.

Also I noticed that one of a vacuum hose popped (see the video). I put it back and car was driving on D and R no problem. I don't know if that was the cause for loss of power under 2000rpm, I'll take it for a ride to double check on it but no stalls on cold with D and R so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I still didn't figure out how to open the hood. What a shame. I pull all the pullers and etc in the cabin, then trying to pull latch under the hood and sometimes it works sometimes not. Not sure what to do.
I was wondering if I should dismount the lock and replace it with some smart pins to hold the hood by them instead. Let me know if it makes sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
There's a little upgrade on the car.
#1. Humming sound from the right side seems like not coming from the front but probably from the rear and may coming from.. gear box?
#2 CJ when you order parts that on backorder do not charge you right away but do not let you know that the part is available. So if you missed, you missed. Therefore I pay manually for all the parts upfront in full. Just maybe useful for some.
#3 If someone needs and want to repeat the challenge I am adding the list of parts you need to make a conversion with part numbers (so you could find it easily over the websites) and prices I found around.
The base of this list I got from Scott Harness (check his YouTube channel and email him if you need other years), but on top of that there were a lot of things that was not in the list so I added positions, prices and places I found them.
#4 Going outside to address the loss of power under 2k rpm after warm up (changing coil cables, sparks for now, then further).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Looks like an interesting project for sure. Couple of questions popped into my head though. If you are going to cut off and discard a large amount of the rear of the car why sand and primer all that stuff?
Also you said "A lot of rust around the panels .." How was that rust damage addressed exactly?
I see you didn't bother to remove the emblems on the side of the car before primering. Guessing because you are just going to throw that stuff away. OK, but it's a lot easier to sand without it on there. Could just be me there.

Yes, I will cut it off. Just didn't want to the car look crazy for these days/weeks while I'm waiting for the parts, I still work on the suspension, taking car for a ride to test it out so, I decided to seal the whole car. Took me extra 15 minutes to do it, no biggie.

Right now I grinded and cut off the parts that were "done" except the door, I got new skin for it so it will be a weekend project for me to replace it. A pillars are also done, I just did what I could for now, but when the last parts will be here, I replace all structural elements anyway.

You right. I need to take care of the fender anyways, weld in a couple metal sheet pieces and all labels will be removed, because no need to underline that this is Mustang, everyone knows it anyway but since there so much work anyway I didn't care too much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hi Pete,

While waiting for the rest of the parts to arrive will you start with the body works on parts that will not need to be replaced? I see there is a big hole in the drivers side fender in the area that normally is covered by the rocker panel moulding.
Should be a good starting point for the body works.

Kind regards
Björn
You right. I did cut a big rust hole there a couple weeks ago, sealed the edges and picking up metal sheets on Saturday morning so it will be new fun video hopefully.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
What you were planning to do is a huge task. Emphasis on the word huge. The other problem is you either end up ruining a coupe or having a fake fastback. My 65 Fastback also had a ton of rust, was in the body shop for almost 2 years. Then we had to put it all back together again (thank you Chuck Wiltens). I can’t even imagine changing a coupe into a Fastback. I don’t want to be Debbie downer but you might want to reconsider what you’re planning on doing.

After rebuilding a few cars for my tiny cars collection (including my daily bimmer where is everything is pretty much custom made), Mustang conversion sounds like slightly bigger project where I should be careful before to weld anything together.
Car Wheel Vehicle Tire Automotive tire


I do all of these projects for fun, don't limit myself budget/timewise, I like to do everything myself, this way it's hard to fail pretty much.

About true or fake, I said to myself: the difference between coupe vs fastback $25k.
in both cases you i'll get pile of .. unless you spend $150k. So, it's better to get okay coupe for dust with some rust (in the right places) then cut off bad parts, get brand new body and invest further 25k-60k into custom build suspension, engine, transmission, custom large brake/rotors system (same I did in the bimmer) no tiny wilwood, rims and etc. and drive something that you like as a design, punch it to 3.5-4s to 60 and.. I never never sell cars.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top