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1968 Couple to Fastback Conversion journey

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Hey everyone.

About myself. I like cars, I work in IT, and rebuilt/tune broken toys is my hobby and a little mind outlet.

I always liked 1968 Fastback design but
a) too expensive for a good one
b) bad ones were expensive and bunch of serious problems
c) i never was too big fan of the coupe (sorry to all the owners, I just liked Fastback more)

It wouldn't be possible to start this project if I would want to keep things original but I always was buying cars for fun, not to keep them in a museum.

A few years ago I started to see around videos coupe to fastback conversions and I decided to try one day myself.

I said, I better to buy car cheap, then invest money into new parts instead of giving away difference in ~25k to some person just to have it. So Coupe to Fastback idea settled down.

Last June, I was looking for a car that I would use as a donor for a conversion. I said, let it be rusted in the right places that I will cut out anyways. I should have a clean proper title. and..
I found one. It was a bit expensive, some rust around but it already had front brake conversion, was running, plus the interior wasn't too bad. Alright I said and bought this.

Car Wheel Tire Vehicle Land vehicle


the doors, fenders, rear fenders had a lot of rust, the rest was okay. IDropped on my 19" wheels. Took off 350GT rims and put them away to sell in the future.
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Hey everyone.

About myself. I like cars, I work in IT, and rebuilt/tune broken toys is my hobby and a little mind outlet.

I always liked 1968 Fastback design but
a) too expensive for a good one
b) bad ones were expensive and bunch of serious problems
c) i never was too big fan of the coupe (sorry to all the owners, I just liked Fastback more)

It wouldn't be possible to start this project if I would want to keep things original but I always was buying cars for fun, not to keep them in a museum.

A few years ago I started to see around videos coupe to fastback conversions and I decided to try one day myself.

I said, I better to buy car cheap, then invest money into new parts instead of giving away difference in ~25k to some person just to have it. So Coupe to Fastback idea settled down.

Last June, I was looking for a car that I would use as a donor for a conversion. I said, let it be rusted in the right places that I will cut out anyways. I should have a clean proper title. and..
I found one. It was a bit expensive, some rust around but it already had front brake conversion, was running, plus the interior wasn't too bad. Alright I said and bought this.



the doors, fenders, rear fenders had a lot of rust, the rest was okay. IDropped on my 19" wheels. Took off 350GT rims and put them away to sell in the future.
Any progress on this? I am following, really want to see this transformation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Any progress on this? I am following, really want to see this transformation.
The last body piece comes on Monday so I'm planning to start working on it next weekend.
There's still window assembly not here but this is minor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
If you are tearing it apart and rebuilding or replacing the motor, why bother with spark plug replacement?
The reason is simple. I still like to drive cars so, when I will replace the motor then it will be new stuff but until then running what I got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Started dismount chairs, gas tank, carpets, ceiling fabric, etc.
Mapping out structural elements (in my case, elements are not welded together).
Pictures on the progress this weekend.

On top of that, found the problem with the humming sound. It is the rear wheel bearing. Ordered on CJ, will replace it @ some point during the transformation.
 

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Started dismount chairs, gas tank, carpets, ceiling fabric, etc.
Mapping out structural elements (in my case, elements are not welded together).
Pictures on the progress this weekend.

On top of that, found the problem with the humming sound. It is the rear wheel bearing. Ordered on CJ, will replace it @ some point during the transformation.
So how's the transformation going?
Any update pics?
 

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Started dismount chairs, gas tank, carpets, ceiling fabric, etc.
Mapping out structural elements (in my case, elements are not welded together).
Pictures on the progress this weekend.

On top of that, found the problem with the humming sound. It is the rear wheel bearing. Ordered on CJ, will replace it @ some point during the transformation.

Did you give up on this project?
 

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Well thats harsh, but this is the internet after all. Even though I think the OP has delusions of grandeur you have to admit some wrenchers take months/years tinkering, and even fewer actually post progressively to satisfy the curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
Never give up, never surrender! A little update on current state of things.

As I mentioned before I work in IT industry and we launching a 3d communication platform this year + my wife said she will do harakiri to me if I won't do some family stuff with kids so a few weeks the project was on pause. Hurricane added up the hassle around, were a lot of broken trees to clean up.

Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle


Car was sitting without any progress for a few weeks but today after work I put gas tank back so I could move the car to the garage and continue dismount parts.
Will record some fun cinematic videos and hope to share it with you guys. Next or the following weekend will weld structure with some profiles to make sure it won't fall apart and unleash my plasma cutter and cut the butter. So stay tune!

Other stuff. Due to I'm planning gently shape wide body in the rear same way as this one
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Hood


I tested about 150 different rims on this car (I built a small program to do that) and found out that with the dark nardo gray (as Audi nardo gray from RS6 which is going to be the color but just a bit darker than that)
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light


another JDM wheels will pop like wowow (picture below). The only thing, I may paint them in white but for now they will stay in original color.
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle



So front got 19" 9.5 +22. I wanted +12 but they just didn't have it at this time so I will re-order later on +12 but for now +22 will get a 0,5 inch spacer to be flashed with the arch which fits perfectly. +12 will be same perfect just without a spacer. 19" wheels goes above the ball join same way as my Volks.
Rear 19" 10.5 +12. It's a fry wider than arches but since I do wide body it won't be a problem.

So Volks got back to 2007 GT
Wheel Car Vehicle Land vehicle Tire


This is what is going on so far.
My insta @modsnationcom so if next time if you think I disappeared shout me a message! I post there videos some times with my project cars so Mustang goes there too.
Cheers! Will keep you posted this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Btw! Wanted to get an advice for tires.
My tires on Volks 245/35/r19 all over which worked just fine (68 on coilovers + rear new springs). Now I know the sizes of 1968 pretty well so I think to get 245/35/r19 front, 275/35/r19 rear or even 275/40/r19 and raise just a notch the rear would work fine (I used lowering blocks on rear springs so I would dismount them). Hopefully it makes sense. The point behind it, level the car straight or even lower the front comparing to the rear just a hair because that pointing up front drives me crazy.

Let me know what you think!
 

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Let me know what you think!
Set aside the wheels/tires/drivetrain stuff for now. You have a bigger fish to fry, and that's getting the body together soundly and accurately. If, as you say, the A pillars are toast that video back in post #38 won't help you there. Take accurate measurements (every which way) before cutting. Also, I may have missed it, but if you don't already have the Jim Osborn 1968 Mustang Weld & Sealant Manual you should get one now. Oh yeah, one other thing; Don't throw away anything you remove from the car until the car is done. You will find you will need a great many things for reference purposes later as your build progresses and there's no way to predict which. I have done what you are undertaking, a pic of my conversion is down below (I'm partial to a dead level stance myself). Best wishes for your project, I'm following.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Set aside the wheels/tires/drivetrain stuff for now. You have a bigger fish to fry, and that's getting the body together soundly and accurately. If, as you say, the A pillars are toast that video back in post #38 won't help you there. Take accurate measurements (every which way) before cutting. Also, I may have missed it, but if you don't already have the Jim Osborn 1968 Mustang Weld & Sealant Manual you should get one now. Oh yeah, one other thing; Don't throw away anything you remove from the car until the car is done. You will find you will need a great many things for reference purposes later as your build progresses and there's no way to predict which. I have done what you are undertaking, a pic of my conversion is down below (I'm partial to a dead level stance myself). Best wishes for your project, I'm following.
It was just a little present for myself which is always important to excite yourself for the further work.


About A pillars. They rusted where they connect the drip rails so they may toast or recoverable.
Here how they look like.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Wheel Plant

Hood Automotive lighting Window Automotive tire Automotive mirror


If they just rust on the side where is the drip rails I thought to do a surgery and cut a side piece from A pillars, and weld it to the original A pillar if it does make sense. If it won't be a good idea then as you mentioned I will have to do it all the way. But hopefully it can be done then I would need to do less measurements.

Jim Osborn 1968 Mustang Weld & Sealant Manual
Thanks! Let me know if this is a good one FD6133 - 1967 Mustang Weld/Sealant Assembly Manual
It's for 1967 but from my understanding there's zero difference in that subject.

Will keep all the parts. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
a pic of my conversion is down below (I'm partial to a dead level stance myself). Best wishes for your project, I'm following.
love your build, it looks great and straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Thanks! National Parts Depot has the '68 Weld & Sealant Manual in stock, part # L-34E. Only minor differences between '67 and '68, engineering improvements/updates for '68's.
Thanks! Ordered.
My only concern it's a coupe on the cover not fastback. in 1967 (the link I sent you) was fastback. let me know if there any alternations in those manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
an update:
car is ready to be moved into "garage" but garage was a bit too fancy word for what I got here.

I ordered this thing (26x13ft) with walls and so on.

Rectangle Slope Architecture Sleeve Triangle


Hopefully that will be just enough. They a bit delayed the delivery so I'm waiting this week it to come. The positive side of it, due to it's always warm here, I can work on it any time even after work and my business errands. The walls can be raised so it's safe from accidental fire from sparks or whatever or I can even remove it when I will weld something but just to avoid any potential threats I will spray it even the ceiling is pretty high.
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I have a shop in my town as an accidental ownership but it's just unrealistic to work there, too little amount of space and too many ppl walk through plus it requires to drive 20+m plus each way. With this I just can get up from my laptop and go to the backyard and mess with it every day not once a week.

I bought a few light panels to lit it up in the evenings so minor work that doesn't produce too much noise I could do even after 6pm.


If any practical advices - lmk.

Due to it will sit on the the ground, I got a couple metal profiles (14ft/12inch/4inch) to level the car, let it sit a couple days, then re-level if necessary and start.
 
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