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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1968 mustang fastback frame rust - Updated 4/11

Hello

Seems like there is a lot of knowledge on this board and I was hoping I could
get some advice . I'm hoping to buy this car and some rust issues have
surfaced. The owner is going to fix it by fabricating new metal and welding it in. Any opinions or advice would be appreciated.
UPDATE 4/11
Any opinions of these repairs ? Like i said guys the car is not a steal but i have been shopping over a year and the car looks to be a solid driver . The inspection is scheduled for Wednesday.


Thanks in advance
 

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That could be a really bad sign for the rest of the car, if the frame is that bad (and thats pretty damned bad), what else is rusty?

If you are new to Mustangs, I would pass and get a car that is more solid. There are plenty of them out there.
 

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You don't need to fab anything. That section is available as a repair part. You can also get the whole rail. I've seen worse. 'Course, you can't drive it that way, it has to be fixed.
 

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The heavy layer of undercoating would scare me. I agree with lunarweasal...where there's very noticeable rust like that, there's more rust you can't see.
 

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You need to have this damage repaired by a professional that restores Mustangs. The torque box and floor rails need to be replaced on this side and what is the other side like? Also, if there is rust showing in these areas, I would suggest that you take a close look at the cowl and make sure that water isn't leaking into the interior thru the cowl. The way to test this is to poor water into the cowl and ensure that it is not leaking into the interior around the driver's venting and around the heater cowl on the passenger side. The restoration of the above noticed damage will cost about $2000 depending on the restorer that you have do the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Guys,
Thanks for the advice, is the area in question what is called the torque box ? Does the whole floor rail need to be replaced if the rest of it is solid ? The other side looks pretty solid.
Thanks again
 

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The torque box is the metal between the rocker and the frame rail. All of these parts are available from most vendors. If you are not real familiar with mustangs you should try find someone to look at it with you. Of course all this depends on the price you are paying for the car. Like others have said it probably has other problem also. Just doing some searching on these forums and you can learn a lot reading the information on here.
 

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The heavy layer of undercoating would scare me. I agree with lunarweasal...where there's very noticeable rust like that, there's more rust you can't see.
I agree about the undercoating too. Suspicious.

To the original poster, have you looked at any other cars?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ive hired some one to go over the car after the repairs are made.The lift will be available to him for the inspection.What other area's should he be keying in on for rust other than the obvious ( rails,trunk,floors quarters)? Are there Mustang problem area's that aren't visible ? The car had a full resto in the 80's and the rest of the body seems to be a clean driver.
Thanks again for any advice
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Weasel
Yes I have been looking for a 67 or 68 fastback for over a year. I was shocked to find out 20k won't put me in a really clean c code not needing a lot of work. I was thinking of going to spring Carlisle if this car doesn't work out.

Thanks
 

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The cowls are usually a good spot for rust, but can be a hard spot to check. Rusted out cowl can allow rain and water to come in through the firewall.

Get him to give the car a good look over. Looking for anything. Remember, pretty much all the sheet metal is repoped, but can get expensive quick.
 

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That undercoating covering rust is a really bad sign in my book....a classic shoddy repair is usually covered with a heavy layer of undercoating by certain "restorers"....I would carefully poke around this car before even thinking of buying it....
Just my .02
Tom
 

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Looks to me that the floorpans were replaced with very crude welds.

Better look at this car hard.
 

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Weasel
Yes I have been looking for a 67 or 68 fastback for over a year. I was shocked to find out 20k won't put me in a really clean c code not needing a lot of work. I was thinking of going to spring Carlisle if this car doesn't work out.

Thanks
Sucks, doesn't it? I would LOVE one of those too, but the buy in is too high for me. Wish you the best of luck finding one, please understand people on this site are just looking out for you when we point out flaws in the car.

I would think that a driver condition 67 should be findable for under 20, but you would know better than I having looked for as long as you have.
 

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That undercoating covering rust is a really bad sign in my book....a classic shoddy repair is usually covered with a heavy layer of undercoating by certain "restorers"....


That is soooo true! That was the case with my car when I bought it. Lots of undercoating covering rust and patch panels made from scrap metal from old doors held on with pop rivets, wood screws, and bondo.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Maxim
Did you go over your car good looking for the rot ? I'm just curious if you have a car lift and some one knows where to look - how Much do you think would be missed ?
Thanks
 

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That rail needs to be replaced not patched or "fixed" REPLACED! they sell full one piece replacements so no prob, god only knows what else is lacking in that rail. Mine had aluminum tape with undercoating covering the worst mess i had ever seen.

Unless the car is a major steal think about looking else where, like said before its a good sign of what all the other hidden parts of the car look like
 

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Weasel
Yes I have been looking for a 67 or 68 fastback for over a year. I was shocked to find out 20k won't put me in a really clean c code not needing a lot of work. I was thinking of going to spring Carlisle if this car doesn't work out.

Thanks
I would think you could find a nice clean driver for 20 thousand. My 65 fastback in my signature I got for 19 last June. It's an A code with PS and AC. I found mind in auto trader classics had a deal going on one I found at Carlisle but I hee- hawed around and lost out on it. There's a guy got a 68 here close but he hasn't put a price on it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That rail needs to be replaced not patched or "fixed" REPLACED! they sell full one piece replacements so no prob, god only knows what else is lacking in that rail. Mine had aluminum tape with undercoating covering the worst mess i had ever seen.

Unless the car is a major steal think about looking else where, like said before its a good sign of what all the other hidden parts of the car look like
67 - I'm going to get it inspected after the repair and decide. If you were to replace the whole rail can it be done without removing the floor pan ? It's not a steal but I've been looking for a while and it has what I'm looking for a 289 tweaked a little - 4 speed and fold down rear seat - it even has a functioning tilt away steering wheel.

Thanks
 

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That is soooo true! That was the case with my car when I bought it. Lots of undercoating covering rust and patch panels made from scrap metal from old doors held on with pop rivets, wood screws, and bondo.
I think we have already established that our cars were "restored" by the same person lol.

Luckily, I did get a steal on mine or I would have shot the P/O lol.

My frame rail, also, needed replaced. It is a major undertaken, but it is doable.

Bill
 
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