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Discussion Starter #21
Happy with the fit of these Doug,s ceramic headers. they were on sale at Auto Krafters and I picked them up in there store because they are 45 min from my house. Kind of crowded around that trans selector switch and I dont want to cook it so I will have some kind of heat shield in there . I ground off a sharp edge on the block and raised the engine a little but really they almost jumped in there by there self . Can not claim a win yet until my Borgeson box gets
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here tomorrow but I am feeling good about it.
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Discussion Starter #22
Borgeson box came in and is only 1/2 inch wider and it looks like it is all good. I have 3/4 inch between the header and the box in the tightest spot so not too bad. Not sure yet how to route the lines. Probably have to go in the fender well .
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What eng and trans are you useing looks like a late model efi. Asking because I hope to pick up a 67 Rancho and use the ac in my 67 vert and install a 351w& c6 from an old . 76 van I built years ago. Looking at the new fabricated trans tunnel makes me feel good that somebody besides me can & will use what they have to get the job done. By the way it looks pretty good sitting there. Do you plan on flangeig the bottom edge under the floor before you weld it up?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Engine and front dress from 93 lightning doner truck that should go to a new home in a few days and make room for me to work on the 68 ranchero .Am doing all my fit up for now in the 69 torino wagon.Pulled the 4r70w and shifter for it out of 6cyl 2000 mustang. It was a neat little car. My plan is to take that tunnel over to the ranchero, trace a sharpie line around it then cut it out about 2 inches above that line.Then push that tunnel up in from the bottom and weld it in. that is the plan anyway . Should shed water better that way if the seam sealer should fail . Do you have any pics of "flanging the bottom edge" so i can understand better ?
 

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No picture as of now. Worked in the HVAC trade for 45 years so a lot of metal work transfers over to cars fairley easily. I'll try to explain the flange .After you scribe the floor pan line onto your tunnel remove it to put the flange on. When the contour on the tunnel changes to a somewhat straighter line use whatever- sawzall,sidegrinder ,plasma cutter etc. & and cut a v notch from the outer edge up to the line . You can make a tool to flange the 16 gauge by welding a piece of small angle about 4/5" long into a good set of vise grips on both sides of the jaws with the flat side of the angle faceing each other just clamp & weld. You may need several notches along your radius edges. Clamp your tool on the metal at the line and slowly work along the line bending the metal out 90 degrees to the side. It works better to make several passes bending the flange out a little at a time until you get it where you want it. You might not want the flange under your floor pan but that raw edge on the 16 gauge will show no mercy whenever your working under the car anywhere around it. Might can buy the tool at harbor frieght but after working with my buddy on 16 gauge grease duct I found the bought ones not so good as the made ones. Good luck on your build and don't get discouraged or worry about the naysayers.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
retired HVAC here as well Hope to have something to show you all withthe tunnel soon but have so many other things going on with the build. I drove down to VA classics today and got my radiator. Should have pics in the build thread maybe tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The 93 Lightning that donated its engine is out of here. I am happy that I now have space to work on the Ranchero and also glad that it went to a good home.
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Have'nt seen any post since you got rid of the lightning truck& can't find it now ,any progress? Any way you might want to sell any front body parts off of your wagon? Could use some in a bad kinda way on my 69 Ranchero. Keep up the posts on your progress as I might be coming down that road behind you.
 

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made a trans tunnel to go in the ranchero when i am ready Hope to push it up in from the bottom to make welding it in better Used some refrigerant cylinders for the 16 gauge metal The 2000 mustang shifter works well but not sure what is up with that cable i cut that is in the pic.It will not let you get out of park with tension on it and you release the tension by stepping on the gas. If that is all it is, then I View attachment 754848 View attachment 754852 dont need it but it may have something to do brake switch not sure
An R 410A canister as a trans tunnel! It would be a shame to put carpet over that!
 
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Once the carpet/ paint goes on nobody knows what it was could a been stock. As a retired hvac sheetmetal / service tech I can say that 16 gauge metal is no joke
That's a bunch of psi for sure! I know my way around refrigerants myself. Thats why I thought it was so cool! Get it, cool!
 

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Oh yes definitely cool. Nothing like useing what you got for something it's not.Because like I said 16 ga. Is no joke without a roller or break all you got is flat metal
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Have'nt seen any post since you got rid of the lightning truck& can't find it now ,any progress? Any way you might want to sell any front body parts off of your wagon? Could use some in a bad kinda way on my 69 Ranchero. Keep up the posts on your progress as I might be coming down that road behind you.
Sorry I have not posted. Some other things got in the way.Will be back on it soon. Thanks for your interest.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Finally got back at it . Engine and trans are out of the Ranchero. It is on the slab where I have roome to work on it.I made a spring compressor sort of like Daze cars design and pulled the front suspension on the wagon;. I got the rollerized spring perch kit from Daze cars and welded them up and they are ready to go Sorry it has been so long.
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Glad to see you back on it. Did you get your trans tunnel in if so how did it turn out? Got the eng. In my 69 running somewhat carb seized up & had to use a water bottle full of gas with a hole in the lid. Sounded ok, no smoke or bad sounds. If it holds water might leave it in there. Seen 1 post with the headers on looked good & your clearance on the box should be plenty. I've had to use a grinder on the box& the stock manifold to get just a little clearance on a 74 maverick with a 351 w in it & it was not 1/2" by a mile & everything was fine. What's your plan for ign. & fuel supply control along with the trans?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Glad to see you back on it. Did you get your trans tunnel in if so how did it turn out? Got the eng. In my 69 running somewhat carb seized up & had to use a water bottle full of gas with a hole in the lid. Sounded ok, no smoke or bad sounds. If it holds water might leave it in there. Seen 1 post with the headers on looked good & your clearance on the box should be plenty. I've had to use a grinder on the box& the stock manifold to get just a little clearance on a 74 maverick with a 351 w in it & it was not 1/2" by a mile & everything was fine. What's your plan for ign. & fuel supply control along with the trans?
Hope to pull the front suspension on the ranchero tomorrow.Then I can start cleaning and painting the engine bay while I am ordering the suspension and brake parts. Somebody tortured the shock towers. That could be a big deal or nothing to It who knows ? Will have pics tomorrow I have not done all my research on the Ignition and fuel supply yet but kind of have my heart set on that US shift quick 4 controler but all that is way down the road. Oh yea I like them Mavericks too .
 

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Discussion Starter #37
looks like somebody wanted to grease the upper arm fittings real bad:) That is going to put my welding skills to the test. Along with fixing the cross member that is all bent up. That will give me something to do while I am waiting on all my front suspension stuff to come in.
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Discussion Starter #38
tubular arms came in. Am glad I waited before I welded in a patch on the towers.See how the towers taper down on the Ranchero? There is now room to drop a stock arm down like in a mustang.That is why I got them along with the bling. Cost $210 a piece. I guess a stock arm is about $70 so they are worth it to me to get a shelby drop.
also have 3 degree + caster built in.
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Discussion Starter #39
made some nice patches out of 1/8" for the shock tower and repaired the front cross member with angle iron
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Discussion Starter #40
The tubular uppers , Moog lower arms. Eaton Detroit springs.wheel bearings , etc went in well. I was not able to put the seals in the calipers that I used from the wagon so I ordered the rebuilt set today.Somehow I forgot the inner tie rod ends so they are on there way as well .
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