welcome. I'll be watching
1969 Convertible
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Here are some pictures,
The driver side trunk floor removed and a view of the frame rail. As mentioned I need to finish removing the rest of the floor pieces.
![Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Floor]()
Here is a picture of the side of the frame rail showing the extent of the rust. The crooked white line I circled is bondo! Someone in the past actually tried to hide the rust with body filler
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting]()
Drivers side fender aprons. Here someone cut out the rusty spots of the front and rear aprons and welded in a fabricated piece of angle iron to go the full length to cover the area.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Car]()
Here is the crack in the shock tower, there are probably others that I havent uncovered yet
![Automotive tire Tire Wood Bumper Road surface]()
The driver side trunk floor removed and a view of the frame rail. As mentioned I need to finish removing the rest of the floor pieces.
Here is a picture of the side of the frame rail showing the extent of the rust. The crooked white line I circled is bondo! Someone in the past actually tried to hide the rust with body filler
Drivers side fender aprons. Here someone cut out the rusty spots of the front and rear aprons and welded in a fabricated piece of angle iron to go the full length to cover the area.
Here is the crack in the shock tower, there are probably others that I havent uncovered yet
It’s been a while since I posted here so I figured I’d give an update.
As mentioned in another thread I’ve been working on the drivers side rear frame rail, with not much success. Well, I got a new MIG a few months ago and have been practicing. I think I am finally at a point where I can get the frame rail done. My plan is to plug weld on a 1/8”x3”x16” plate on each side of the rail and seam weld the ends and bottoms. That should hopefully provide enough strength. I’m going to do the same on the passenger side but this time I am going to make sure to leave the convertible reinforcement intact and weld it to the new rail patch.
I got the passenger side trunk floor out so I could bend the rear trunk floor up so I have better access to the rails when welding. It also looks like I’ll need to patch the lip on the wheelhouse here.
![Wood Automotive tire Bumper Gas Automotive exterior]()
While I was taking the trunk floor out, which includes the bumper bracket I found more rust on the tail light panel. There is also some damage from a very low speed impact but still enough that I might as well replace the panel. In the pic below, it’s a little hard to see but there is some damage to the rear fender flange where it’s welded to the tail light panel filler.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread]()
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread]()
Does anyone know if there are replacements available for those filler panels? I’m hoping I don’t need to replace either one but wanted to ask just in case.
Anyway, I’m hoping to make more progress now and hopefully that means more updates.
As mentioned in another thread I’ve been working on the drivers side rear frame rail, with not much success. Well, I got a new MIG a few months ago and have been practicing. I think I am finally at a point where I can get the frame rail done. My plan is to plug weld on a 1/8”x3”x16” plate on each side of the rail and seam weld the ends and bottoms. That should hopefully provide enough strength. I’m going to do the same on the passenger side but this time I am going to make sure to leave the convertible reinforcement intact and weld it to the new rail patch.
I got the passenger side trunk floor out so I could bend the rear trunk floor up so I have better access to the rails when welding. It also looks like I’ll need to patch the lip on the wheelhouse here.
While I was taking the trunk floor out, which includes the bumper bracket I found more rust on the tail light panel. There is also some damage from a very low speed impact but still enough that I might as well replace the panel. In the pic below, it’s a little hard to see but there is some damage to the rear fender flange where it’s welded to the tail light panel filler.
Does anyone know if there are replacements available for those filler panels? I’m hoping I don’t need to replace either one but wanted to ask just in case.
Anyway, I’m hoping to make more progress now and hopefully that means more updates.
NPD has a pair that are marked as FastBack parts. I know this has been brought up before, but I do not remember what the differences are. The worst case is you can cut them up to make them fit?
![Tool Line Font Automotive exterior Stonemason's hammer]()
1969-1970 - National Parts Depot
@69GT350H - hopefully I won’t need to replace them, or worst case maybe just patch them. Thanks for the link though!!
I spent this weekend getting the outside of the drivers frame rail cleaned up and prepped the reinforcement. Welded it in today. There are still two plugs that need to be welded but I need a better clamp that can fit down in the rail and pull the two pieces tighter. The rest of them are good though, good penetration. There were 18 plugs.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior]()
Next weekend will be getting the inner side prepped and hopefully welded in.
I spent this weekend getting the outside of the drivers frame rail cleaned up and prepped the reinforcement. Welded it in today. There are still two plugs that need to be welded but I need a better clamp that can fit down in the rail and pull the two pieces tighter. The rest of them are good though, good penetration. There were 18 plugs.
Next weekend will be getting the inner side prepped and hopefully welded in.
Got the drivers side inside reinforcement welded in. This one was a little trickier due to the weird angle but all the welds look good.
![Electrical wiring Gas Engineering Wire Machine]()
Also got the taillight panel and valance I ordered. I’ll probably work on getting the old taillight panel out before I start on the passenger side frame rail since it’ll make maneuvering around easier
Also got the taillight panel and valance I ordered. I’ll probably work on getting the old taillight panel out before I start on the passenger side frame rail since it’ll make maneuvering around easier
Made some more progress today -
Out with the old:
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior]()
I figured, since I was almost there anyway I would replace the trunk brace. The old one had a little damage from a low speed accident (mentioned above) and also a lot of pitting from surface rust. I made sure to take measurements and I also made a jig from some 2x4s to support the new trunk brace when I get it to make sure its in the correct position.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Mode of transport Asphalt Automotive exterior]()
![Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Electrical wiring Gas]()
Removed the passenger side frame rail section, this time leaving the convertible reinforcement in place. I will plug weld the new section to that (and seam weld) and also add the plates on either side like I did for the drivers side.
![Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive lighting Automotive tire]()
I could also get a better view of the lower quarter panel and the lip is pretty rusted so I will need to patch that, along with the outer wheel well lip.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Road surface Asphalt Wood]()
Hopefully tomorrow I can make some progress getting the new frame rail welded in.
Out with the old:
I figured, since I was almost there anyway I would replace the trunk brace. The old one had a little damage from a low speed accident (mentioned above) and also a lot of pitting from surface rust. I made sure to take measurements and I also made a jig from some 2x4s to support the new trunk brace when I get it to make sure its in the correct position.
Removed the passenger side frame rail section, this time leaving the convertible reinforcement in place. I will plug weld the new section to that (and seam weld) and also add the plates on either side like I did for the drivers side.
I could also get a better view of the lower quarter panel and the lip is pretty rusted so I will need to patch that, along with the outer wheel well lip.
Hopefully tomorrow I can make some progress getting the new frame rail welded in.
Took a little time this afternoon to get a better look at the inner wheel well on the drivers side. Whoever restored this car the last time didnt do a very good job. They used a piece of tin to cover up this hole on the front side of the inner wheel well. You can see in the second pic they used a strip of metal to cover a gap.
![Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle Tire Automotive exterior]()
![Automotive tire Wood Tread Water Metal]()
On the rear side of this wheel well there were these holes that they covered with bondo.
![Water Bedrock Grey Wood Formation]()
Fortunately I just ordered a new wheel well that I plan on cannibalizing to fix both of these spots. I really dont want to mess with all of the brackets and braces on the inside to just replace the whole thing.
![Automotive tire Tire Tread Motor vehicle Bumper]()
On the rear side of this wheel well there were these holes that they covered with bondo.
Fortunately I just ordered a new wheel well that I plan on cannibalizing to fix both of these spots. I really dont want to mess with all of the brackets and braces on the inside to just replace the whole thing.
Worked on the lower quarter panel lip on the passenger side. I got the new part welded in, it's not pretty but it should get the job done. I plan on coating the inside and outside with rubberized undercoat (or bedliner) so it should be sealed pretty well. I may try to fill the holes but one of the reasons it's not a pretty weld is the thinness of the old metal was causing burn through pretty easily so I had to take my time and make small welds.
![Automotive tire Bumper Floor Electrical wiring Wood]()
I also got a better look at that lower corner of the outer wheelhouse and decided to get a new one to patch that.
![Gas Bumper Metal Air gun Wire]()
Since that is on hold while I wait for the new part I started to take a look at the driver wheelhouse. In the picture in the previous post, what I thought was a strip of metal was actually the flange of the old inner wheelhouse which someone just hammered flatter (I know they pound it down for convertibles) and used to fill in a gap with the outer wheelhouse. Either way I decided to just go for it and replace the whole thing rather than just patching. This will be next weekend's (or more) project.
The bracket here was only welded to the old wheelhouse, they must not have gotten good welds on the upper part.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system]()
It'll be fun times getting the old spot welds cut out and trying to get good contact with the new wheelhouse for the plug welds.
I found this little nugget while I was under there. It's a little hard to read but it looks like the date says 3/4/77 so the quarter panels must have been replace 45 years ago. They were both installed using pop rivets to hold them in place and then tacked in and bondo'd over, but I am going to leave well enough alone with those.
![Brown Rectangle Wood Handwriting Beige]()
I want to get the above done before I start on the passenger frame rail since it gives me better access.
I also got a better look at that lower corner of the outer wheelhouse and decided to get a new one to patch that.
Since that is on hold while I wait for the new part I started to take a look at the driver wheelhouse. In the picture in the previous post, what I thought was a strip of metal was actually the flange of the old inner wheelhouse which someone just hammered flatter (I know they pound it down for convertibles) and used to fill in a gap with the outer wheelhouse. Either way I decided to just go for it and replace the whole thing rather than just patching. This will be next weekend's (or more) project.
The bracket here was only welded to the old wheelhouse, they must not have gotten good welds on the upper part.
It'll be fun times getting the old spot welds cut out and trying to get good contact with the new wheelhouse for the plug welds.
I found this little nugget while I was under there. It's a little hard to read but it looks like the date says 3/4/77 so the quarter panels must have been replace 45 years ago. They were both installed using pop rivets to hold them in place and then tacked in and bondo'd over, but I am going to leave well enough alone with those.
I want to get the above done before I start on the passenger frame rail since it gives me better access.
Got the patch in for the passenger side outer wheelhouse. Need to add a couple of welds to tie it in with the fender and also see if I can patch a couple of hole.
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bumper Wood Rim]()
Then I moved on to removing the inner wheelhouse on the driver's side. The only real difficult part was one of the factory stitch welds (seen at the very top left in first image) I had to cut around without cutting the underlying support.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Wood]()
![Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire]()
This also gives me better access to the back side of the frame rail patch I put in so I can do a stitch weld there.
Next weekend will be spent cleaning up the spot weld surfaces and test fitting the new wheelhouse.
Then I moved on to removing the inner wheelhouse on the driver's side. The only real difficult part was one of the factory stitch welds (seen at the very top left in first image) I had to cut around without cutting the underlying support.
This also gives me better access to the back side of the frame rail patch I put in so I can do a stitch weld there.
Next weekend will be spent cleaning up the spot weld surfaces and test fitting the new wheelhouse.
Got the new inner wheel house in. It took a little "massaging" to get it situated but wasn't horrible. I still have a couple welds to grind down and a few to plug on the inside but the hard part is done.
![Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread Automotive lighting Bumper]()
Once this is wrapped up I should be able to move back to the passenger side frame rail.
Once this is wrapped up I should be able to move back to the passenger side frame rail.
Got the passenger frame rail welded to the convertible reinforcement,
![Hood Automotive tire Trunk Bumper Motor vehicle]()
Then moved on to the reinforcement plates on each side.
![Motor vehicle Gas Machine Computer hardware Engineering]()
![Tire Bicycle Wheel Mode of transport Wood]()
Once that was in I added a bead to the ends and along the bottoms of both sides.
Now that is done I can move on to putting the lower trunk brace back in and the taillight panel.
I got new axle frame bumpers from NPD that I still need to put in but they are going to take some modification as the bends arent quite right and they dont sit flush to the bottom of the frame rail.
Getting closer to having the back end buttoned up
Then moved on to the reinforcement plates on each side.
Once that was in I added a bead to the ends and along the bottoms of both sides.
Now that is done I can move on to putting the lower trunk brace back in and the taillight panel.
I got new axle frame bumpers from NPD that I still need to put in but they are going to take some modification as the bends arent quite right and they dont sit flush to the bottom of the frame rail.
Getting closer to having the back end buttoned up
Life kept me busy the last couple of weekends but yesterday I was able to make some progress. Its not much but it's forward progress either way.
Got the axle frame bumper brackets installed. With this done I can now move on to putting the trunk brace and tail light panel back in.
![Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Wheel]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design Electrical wiring]()
On Sunday the wife wanted to make a trip to Ikea to get some shelves and wanted me to go to help. So to compromise I said I would if we could stop at the Charlotte NPD store. Picked up the front fenders. I wont need them for a while but at least that's out of the way
![Packing materials Shipping box Package delivery Food Paper bag]()
Got the axle frame bumper brackets installed. With this done I can now move on to putting the trunk brace and tail light panel back in.
On Sunday the wife wanted to make a trip to Ikea to get some shelves and wanted me to go to help. So to compromise I said I would if we could stop at the Charlotte NPD store. Picked up the front fenders. I wont need them for a while but at least that's out of the way
Another long delay in updating -
I've got the drivers side frame rail out but as is the case with these cars, I've peeled another layer (or two (or three)) of the onion. I found that the best way to get the frame rail out is to get the shock mount out. While doing that I found that that the transition pan has some rust through on it, nothing that makes a hole to the other side (due to overlap) but bad enough it should be replaced. That part is on order. Well the next layer, while under there I really didnt like the look of the way the PO repaired the rusted floors (see pics below). So now I need to add a full floor pan to my list of to-dos. Which means I need to jump to the front of the car and - get the engine/trans out, get the front frame rails/fender aprons/torque boxes out, get the cowl panels out and then the fire wall panel out.
Here's the jig, I went with wood as I didnt want to also have to spend $600+ on tube steel. It's pretty sturdy and the front of the frame rails bolt to it to hold it in place.
![Automotive tire Tread Hood Bumper Fender]()
Here is a shot of the transition pan where it's rusting, on the other side there is also this botched hole repair (and the shock mount cut out).
![Automotive tire Rim Automotive exterior Gas Automotive wheel system]()
![Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Tire Motor vehicle]()
Here is a better shot of the floor from the underside, the darker shade of rust is the old floor pan and the lighter is the new floor. You cant really see it from this angle but there is probably a 1/2 space between the two panels. Its flush on the top side but the welds look horrible, not to mention the convertible reinforcement pans are barely tacked in and the seat platforms on the top are pretty butchered.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Light]()
Here is the drivers rear frame rail out, since I am planning on replacing the full floor pan I didnt hesitate to cut it up to help coax it a bit.
![Wood Gas Tints and shades Machine Metal]()
![Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Wood]()
It's a lot more work than I was intending but as the saying goes - if a job is worth doing, its worth doing right.
I've got the drivers side frame rail out but as is the case with these cars, I've peeled another layer (or two (or three)) of the onion. I found that the best way to get the frame rail out is to get the shock mount out. While doing that I found that that the transition pan has some rust through on it, nothing that makes a hole to the other side (due to overlap) but bad enough it should be replaced. That part is on order. Well the next layer, while under there I really didnt like the look of the way the PO repaired the rusted floors (see pics below). So now I need to add a full floor pan to my list of to-dos. Which means I need to jump to the front of the car and - get the engine/trans out, get the front frame rails/fender aprons/torque boxes out, get the cowl panels out and then the fire wall panel out.
Here's the jig, I went with wood as I didnt want to also have to spend $600+ on tube steel. It's pretty sturdy and the front of the frame rails bolt to it to hold it in place.
Here is a shot of the transition pan where it's rusting, on the other side there is also this botched hole repair (and the shock mount cut out).
Here is a better shot of the floor from the underside, the darker shade of rust is the old floor pan and the lighter is the new floor. You cant really see it from this angle but there is probably a 1/2 space between the two panels. Its flush on the top side but the welds look horrible, not to mention the convertible reinforcement pans are barely tacked in and the seat platforms on the top are pretty butchered.
Here is the drivers rear frame rail out, since I am planning on replacing the full floor pan I didnt hesitate to cut it up to help coax it a bit.
It's a lot more work than I was intending but as the saying goes - if a job is worth doing, its worth doing right.
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