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1969 ford mustang mach 1 ( Instrument panel, cluster, gauge) help!

12112 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  HAV0CK
Hello all,

I have a 69 mustang mach 1 390 and I'm working on restoring the car to it's original glory. Attached are photos of the front and rear sides of the cluster gauges, and I have a few questions regarding it. First, I'm trying to get all of the light bulbs to light up when i provide power to each bulb. When I removed each bulb, I was able to get each of them to light up, individually, by attaching a wire to each end of the connector (on the bulb) and then the other to power and ground. So i know they each work properly. However, when I place the bulb back into the printed circuit on the the back of the cluster, they will not light up.
1) Is there a way I can attach a ground wire and power supply to the back of the printed circuit to check all of the light bulbs at once?

When I first purchased my car, I noticed the fuel gauge and temp worked. The speedometer would work, however it sometimes would fluctuate in the actual speed I was going.. however this issue was very intermittent and I would drive sometimes for 20 miles without it having this issue. The Tachometer, however, did not work at all. When I removed the cluster from the car i noticed the tachometer had a plug in the back of it, however it was never plugged in. I've been reading a little bit about how people would "bypass" the tachometer due to the fact the car would not start sometimes with it plugged in? Anyways, I would really like to have the tach working in this car and I was unable to locate the other end to plug it into (inside the car).
2) How do I hook up the tach and check to make sure it will work?

Lastly, my printed circuit looks pretty worn out, however I don't know for sure due to the fact this is the first one I've ever seen. Based on the looks, would you all recommend getting a new printed circuit or is the one I have look pretty good? If you look closely, where the cluster plugs in, It looks like one or two of the copper connectors maybe broke off at one point? I'm not sure.

The following lights do not work properly, and I'm attempting to get each one of them remedied. Keep in mind, I have the interior of the car completely gutted and the wiring harness is completely exposed to allow me to have access to whatever I need.

-High Beams
-Left Front Turn Signal
-Temp Gauge Light Bulb
-Interior Cluster Gauge Light Bulbs (none turn on while driving at night)
-The dimmer, also appeared to not be working properly, the two rear interior rear lights do turn on, but do not dim down. And before you ask, I made sure to check the dimmer switch was not all the way down keeping the gauge lights low.

Thank you for your help and time!!!
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I'd replace that printed board even if it looks good but that's me. Yes there will be a way to power the bulbs but it will involve tracing the circuit back to the plug. Did the car come with a tach? That makes a difference on a lot of the wiring.
I'd replace that printed board even if it looks good but that's me. Yes there will be a way to power the bulbs but it will involve tracing the circuit back to the plug. Did the car come with a tach? That makes a difference on a lot of the wiring.
Okay, so sounds like getting a new printed board and voltage regulator would be a good idea. The car did come with a tach which was in place but not plugged in. Have you heard of people intentionally bypassing the tach for some reason?
Those printed circuit panels are notoriously unreliable. I've heard mixed results with the reproductions. Therefore, for my 1970 Mach 1, I sent my under dash wiring harness to Randy and Midlife Harness Restorations.

Randy cleaned up and repaired my harness. Then he configured it to directly connect to the back of my gauge cluster. No circuit panel!

You could order a new, reproduction circuit panel and see if that works. FYI, my original circuit panel was completely melted on one side, so I didn't have much faith in using that configuration again.
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The dimmer only works on the dash lights, not the interior lights. Check your speedometer cable for any kinks or bad spots. This has been known to make speedometer needles jump.
Okay, so sounds like getting a new printed board and voltage regulator would be a good idea. The car did come with a tach which was in place but not plugged in. Have you heard of people intentionally bypassing the tach for some reason?
Lots of folks have bypassed the tach because if it fails the engine won't run if the wiring is factory. There is a way to run it and have it bypass at the same time so if it fails the car still goes not sure where I saved tharpt diagram I'll look for it. You should trace the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil, you'll probably find the plug if the previous owner didn't cut and splice.
Those printed circuit panels are notoriously unreliable. I've heard mixed results with the reproductions. Therefore, for my 1970 Mach 1, I sent my under dash wiring harness to Randy and Midlife Harness Restorations.

Randy cleaned up and repaired my harness. Then he configured it to directly connect to the back of my gauge cluster. No circuit panel!

You could order a new, reproduction circuit panel and see if that works. FYI, my original circuit panel was completely melted on one side, so I didn't have much faith in using that configuration again.
Hey there,

I just checked out his website and it looks like it would be quite a bit simpler to change it to a hardwired connection. After he hard-wired the connectors to your gauges, did he also provide the wiring which surpasses the cluster connector?
The dimmer only works on the dash lights, not the interior lights. Check your speedometer cable for any kinks or bad spots. This has been known to make speedometer needles jump.
Good to know it only works on dash lights, thanks. I'll follow the speedo cable. The issue doesn't seem to be extremely problematic but I don't want to have to rip this dash apart again !
Lots of folks have bypassed the tach because if it fails the engine won't run if the wiring is factory. There is a way to run it and have it bypass at the same time so if it fails the car still goes not sure where I saved tharpt diagram I'll look for it. You should trace the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil, you'll probably find the plug if the previous owner didn't cut and splice.
GregB,

If you are able to find out how to do that, I would be very grateful! I'd love to get this tach up and running. I'm thinking of having the gauges all hardwired and not going through the printed circuit board.. when you find the diagram, could you tell if a hardwire connection on the tach is available?
I'll look when I get home, I'm on the road right now. the tach is the only thing that is hard wired from the factory, it does not go through the board. Midlife on the forum forum here does a nice job of wiring the assembly if you don't want to use the printed circuit setup.
Hey there,

I just checked out his website and it looks like it would be quite a bit simpler to change it to a hardwired connection. After he hard-wired the connectors to your gauges, did he also provide the wiring which surpasses the cluster connector?
Yes, Randy sent me everything I needed to connect the harness directly to the back of the gauge cluster. Drop an email to Randy. Likely, he knows how to fix your tachometer issue as well. Here's a picture of my cluster after everything was connected.


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Kultch, GregB,

Thanks for the advice, I think i'm going with midlife on this one to ensure the dash is all set to go. The tach looks like it's pretty simple to hardwire in.
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