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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello.

I have a 1969 Mustang with a 302 V8 engine. The car was running fine until the end of June 2021, then it refused to start.

The ignition coil, solenoid, distributor and wiring have all been replaced. The gas is new, the carburetor is ok. There is spark in the spark plugs. Starting fluid directly into the carburetor still won't start the engine.

The car does turn over. The battery is about a year old.

I had the car at a mechanic for 10 days and they were unable to start it or find out why it won't start.

Any ideas of where to look would be appreciated.
 

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Since you had a "mechanic" involved, what did they test?When you offered it does "turnover", this typically rules out the cranking system wiring. Therefore, the problems seems to be in the primary or secondary ignition side, maybe fuel delivery. Ask your "mechnic for a list of what they did. Is he knowledgable of 50 year old vehicles? Are you handy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Since you had a "mechanic" involved, what did they test?When you offered it does "turnover", this typically rules out the cranking system wiring. Therefore, the problems seems to be in the primary or secondary ignition side, maybe fuel delivery. Ask your "mechnic for a list of what they did. Is he knowledgable of 50 year old vehicles? Are you handy?
The tested pretty much everything. $600.00 worth of diagnostic labor which they did not charge me for since they couldn't get it started. Their report says no compression in all 8 cylinders and no vacuum in the carburetor. They did remove the valve covers and found no obvious problem. How they would know there is no compression without the car running is something they could not tell me. They did a smoke test on the intake manifold and found not problem there... again a mystery since the car wasn't running. This mechanic has worked on the car before and their service has always been good.

I am reasonably handy, but my expertise is digital media, not cars.
 

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The tested pretty much everything. $600.00 worth of diagnostic labor which they did not charge me for since they couldn't get it started. Their report says no compression in all 8 cylinders and no vacuum in the carburetor. They did remove the valve covers and found no obvious problem. How they would know there is no compression without the car running is something they could not tell me. They did a smoke test on the intake manifold and found not problem there... again a mystery since the car wasn't running. This mechanic has worked on the car before and their service has always been good.

I am reasonably handy, but my expertise is digital media, not cars.
Please attach this report, the joke is incomplete.:)
 

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how/why do you remove valve covers to prime pistons

a squirt of oil down plug all is all it would need

I never saw a motor with 0 compression in all 8 unless timing chain is snapped

how is your time and dwell. unhook the condenser and try to start

you also probably have the wrong coil. calls for a 1.5 ohm coil
best i ever found was for FD471 bluestreak

low voltage present at the ign coil is due to the resistance wire, you should only have 5-7 volts on the small wire (+) side
 
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I’m bothered by the reference to “no”compression. In all 8? Really?
 

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I’m bothered by the reference to “no”compression. In all 8? Really?
Sounds like the timing chain broke or fell off the cam gear after became extremely worn. Therefore, neither cam nor the distributor are turning. Likely whatever shop looked at it doesn't know how to troubleshoot without a OBD.
 

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Even if the TC broke some of the cylinders would have the valves closed giving some compression... if the spark plugs are sparking the distributor is turning.
 

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I'm thinking they "mechanic" don't have engine building/assembly experience either.
 

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RTV to fix a fuel leak, terrible spelling, etc, look for a new mechanic. I promise if it had no compression any savvy mechanic would know that from the sound in 3 seconds of trying to start and the no start scenario would have been diagnosed...
 

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Hello.

I have a 1969 Mustang with a 302 V8 engine. The car was running fine until the end of June 2021, then it refused to start.

The ignition coil, solenoid, distributor and wiring have all been replaced. The gas is new, the carburetor is ok. There is spark in the spark plugs. Starting fluid directly into the carburetor still won't start the engine.

The car does turn over. The battery is about a year old.

I had the car at a mechanic for 10 days and they were unable to start it or find out why it won't start.

Any ideas of where to look would be appreciated.
It'd be a good idea to complete your profile, including the area in which you live, so that we can refer you to a "mechanic" that employs English as a primary language and works on cars other than Hyundai's and Kia's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It'd be a good idea to complete your profile, including the area in which you live, so that we can refer you to a "mechanic" that employs English as a primary language and works on cars other than Hyundai's and Kia's.
No need. I am in Rockville, Maryland. There are three major classic car restoration places within 5 miles of me. I know where they are. I've been taking my car to that Exxon station for the past 15 years. Last year it was a cracked heater core and leaking power steering lines. The repair of both took time, but went well. This year I found my mechanic had retired but the manager said he had capable staff. Apparently not.

The car is unrestored and has nearly 882,000 miles on it. I got my drivers license in this car. It is probably time to bite the bullet and hand it over for restoration.
Wheel Tire Plant Vehicle Car
 

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“After replacing ignition coil, car ran for a few minutes and stopped”

I’m not a mechanic by any stretch, but on the surface that sounds like the carb fuel bowl may have run empty during those few minutes and isn’t getting enough fuel to refill it. Although that would essentially require both the coil and fuel pump to fail at the same time, which is highly unlikely…unless you’re running an electric fuel pump and had some sort of short that wiped the coil and pump out in one fell swoop?
 
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