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1966 C Code Coupe / 1970 Mach 1 351C
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I purchased a 1970 Mach 1 (351C 4V CC) that came with a Shaker Hood, but it had not been fitted to the car during the initial metal work prior to purchase. The car is now at my body shop, and doesn't fit well. The body shop says they can make it work, but it will require a lot of work. The cost to buy a better fitting hood would be cheaper than trying to make this one work. (It was from ACP, not sure how long ago it was purchased).

I am committed to at least seeing if a better hood would work better. So here are my questions:

1. Do I really need a shaker hood? I am worried about fitment with a different engine than original, although period correct. The car was originally a 351C 2V without a shaker hood and the engine provided with the car is a 351C 4V CC. I am not looking for the car to be exactly like how it came, just something that wouldn't hurt air flow. I would like an air scoop, but maybe one of the ones available that attach to the hood with signals?

2. How important are the hood pins other than looks? This is a weekend driver. I have read where they are a PITA, but again, never used any so I don't know.

Just looking for opinions and thoughts. Thanks
 

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I have a '70 Mach 1 with a factory shaker.

- The shaker does nothing for performance. It's way cool, but the cool air really doesn't make any horsepower. Thus, if performance is your objective, don't bother with a shaker; or any hood scoop.

- My factory hood was trashed. I bought a repop hood from a friend. The "point" at the front seemed to be off center based on measuring. I ordered another hood from NPD. The point was the same way, so I sent it back. Surprisingly, the reproduction hood chrome fits the reproduction hood. (When I measure my factory hood, it appears the point is exactly centered.)

- The '69 Mach 1 had hood pins. The 1970 Mach 1 had twist locks. The twist locks do take a lot of adjustment. Once you get them dialed in, they're almost always fine. Occasionally, mine will require to futzing to get them locked or unlocked. I suppose the twist locks are functional, but they're mostly for looks.

- Do you already have a shaker assembly? If not, get ready for sticker shock. A factory shaker assembly will run well over $4,000. There are some fiberglass reproductions which cost must less, but they don't have the snorkel and don't look the same under the hood.

- I would suggest calling NPD and asking for their best available hood. It's always changing. When I needed a hood, there were no 69/70 "Ford Tooling" hoods available anywhere. This may have changed. I found one reproduction hood which had the shaker hole and twist lock holes pre-cut, but I learned it was a pretty low quality piece. In the end, I made my reproduction hood work. My friend had cut the shaker hole and I cut the twist lock holes.

* Keep in mind even the factory hoods didn't fit very well. They were notorious for bulging above the fenders on each side and not lining up with the fender extensions. It took a lot of work to make my hood, fenders and fender extensions all line up, but it was pretty bad from the factory.
 

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Either motor should be no issue with a shaker as long as you have the correct supports parts, i.e. correct Cleveland air cleaner 2v/4v base and midplate to go with the shaker. The turn signal hood is basically non-functional from the factory. The twist locks on 70 hoods are a plus in my book for the added security if there's a problem with the standard hood latch mechanism. 69's had hood pins.

@Klutch dang you type fast.
 

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We (NPD) have the last-remaining inventory of Ford Tooling 69-70 hoods extant. We also have sent some to our laser-cutter to be modified with factory-accurate shaker holes (NPD # 16612-4B), but you'll have to locate/create your own twist-lock holes, because we don't offer the 1970 style holes. The plain hood, Ford Tooling, is NPD # 16612-4.

I agree with the others that if you already HAVE the shaker, you'd be wise to use it. The value it adds (and the cool factor it adds) is well worth the effort.

Same goes with the twist-locks. You have a Mach 1. It doesn't matter if it's just a driver, or if it's a show-car, when you start sidestepping original Mach features on your original Mach, you're kind of shooting yourself in the foot. Once adjusted, they're just fine.

And last, you might post some photos, because indeed, 69-70 Mustang hoods don't line up like you'd hope or expect, not even from the factory. It gets a bit sloppy at the fender extensions, where you've got to "split the difference".
 

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The intake manifold may move the car position outside the limits of adjustment of the shaker.
 

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1966 C Code Coupe / 1970 Mach 1 351C
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the comments.

I am leaning toward trying the original ford tooling shaker hood to see if it is any better. As far as the shaker, I do not have one, and am aware of the price. They recently had one on ebay for $2000, but since I am a long way from needing one, I will wait and see if something comes along.

I am still on the fence on the twist locks. I think they look cool, but may be more of a hassle than they are worth.

I attached a couple of photos on how the current hood fits. Based on Klutch's comments about them not fitting well to begin with, maybe they aren't that bad.

793748

793747
.
 

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i just got rid of an original Ford shaker hood for $350
took forever on CL.
I mean years.

i retrofitted my 2v to a shaker in the 80s. I pieced it together here and there at swap meets for about $400

everyone thought i was nuts

as mentioned is a PIA when you have to work under the hood
and does not add any power

if I had to do it over again id just get a solid hood and put a 14' open element air cleaner on it

plus with the shaker i have to keep a big chain in the trunk so i can lock the hood down if i get stuck
 

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Thanks for all the comments.

I am leaning toward trying the original ford tooling shaker hood to see if it is any better. As far as the shaker, I do not have one, and am aware of the price. They recently had one on ebay for $2000, but since I am a long way from needing one, I will wait and see if something comes along.

I am still on the fence on the twist locks. I think they look cool, but may be more of a hassle than they are worth.

I attached a couple of photos on how the current hood fits. Based on Klutch's comments about them not fitting well to begin with, maybe they aren't that bad.

View attachment 793748
View attachment 793747 .
That hood looks pretty typical. As I see it, if you raised the front edge of the hood to line up with the fender extensions, it would bulge above the fenders in the centers on either side. Again, very common. I've seen people put washers under the fender bolts where the hood bulges. Seems to work pretty well.
 

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1966 C Code Coupe / 1970 Mach 1 351C
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I decided to go with the NPD Ford Tooling Shaker Hood and ordered it today. My body shop said they can cut the holes for the twist lock hood locks. Since I haven't made any definitive decisions on intake manifolds or really anything else engine related, the shaker hood should let me go with a shaker if the engine sits correctly, or a non-shaker hood scoop if I can't get the shaker in the correct location.

The Marti report didn't mention a shaker hood, so I am assuming it had the other type hood scoop, but could be wrong.

Thanks again for everyone's help and comments.

Blake
 

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I believe you can not use a Mach 1 style scoop on a Shaker hood. It's my understanding this is because the hole for a Shaker scoop is wider than the Mach 1 scoop.

793980
 
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Thats correct. Mach 1 scoop is not as wide a hole for shaker. You need the shaker trim for the hood as well as the shaker. Here in Australia there are plenty of metal repop shakers for sub $1k that fit 351c 4v.
 

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1966 C Code Coupe / 1970 Mach 1 351C
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As a follow-up to this in case anyone is searching later on about hood choices, the installed NPD Ford Tooling Shaker Hood fit much better. Granted, the ACP hood might of been tweaked enough to make it work, but at $45 / hour, the cost can add up quickly. The only drawback to these is that they don't have the holes for the twist locks, so those will have to be drilled.

When I bought this car back in February, the hood was being stored upright - not sure but have to believe that long term storage of a hood like that might cause it to bow out in the middle.

Here are the photos after getting it on - still more work to do, but looks a lot better.
798624

798625
 

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1966 Mustang GT 4spd
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Night and day better from the pics anyway!!

Chris
 

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I purchased a 1970 Mach 1 (351C 4V CC) that came with a Shaker Hood, but it had not been fitted to the car during the initial metal work prior to purchase. The car is now at my body shop, and doesn't fit well. The body shop says they can make it work, but it will require a lot of work. The cost to buy a better fitting hood would be cheaper than trying to make this one work. (It was from ACP, not sure how long ago it was purchased).

I am committed to at least seeing if a better hood would work better. So here are my questions:

1. Do I really need a shaker hood? I am worried about fitment with a different engine than original, although period correct. The car was originally a 351C 2V without a shaker hood and the engine provided with the car is a 351C 4V CC. I am not looking for the car to be exactly like how it came, just something that wouldn't hurt air flow. I would like an air scoop, but maybe one of the ones available that attach to the hood with signals?

2. How important are the hood pins other than looks? This is a weekend driver. I have read where they are a PITA, but again, never used any so I don't know.

Just looking for opinions and thoughts. Thanks
IMHO, adding the twist on 70 hood locks looks bad when you see huge dips in the sheet metal when those are closed down, especially with new clear coat. The 69 style hood pins are less prone to that. Also, IMHO, the shaker hoods have been so over done that a plain hood is refreshing to look at. The only exception is the first week of production 69 hood with fiberglass scoop, pie cut holes, and ram air flap valve air cleaner. The shaker was not ready when they used those.
 
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