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Is your car in for paint yet?
No, and it's really annoying. He is a good painter, but I have been warned that he can be a bit slow. Seems he still has too many other projects he needs to finish before he can do, and has room for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #283
No, and it's really annoying. He is a good painter, but I have been warned that he can be a bit slow. Seems he still has too many other projects he needs to finish before he can do, and has room for mine.
Well, bummer. Unfortunately, I've heard just SO many stories just like that. It's one of the main reasons I decided to paint my car myself. It would drive me crazy to have my Mustang sit at some shop untouched for months, or even years, with no progress while the owner perpetually says, "Next week. Definitely next week!".
 

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Well, bummer. Unfortunately, I've heard just SO many stories just like that. It's one of the main reasons I decided to paint my car myself. It would drive me crazy to have my Mustang sit at some shop untouched for months, or even years, with no progress while the owner perpetually says, "Next week. Definitely next week!".
My car is still sitting in my trailer in my yard! It's not even gotten to the point of being neglected in the back of the paint shop. :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #285
My car is still sitting in my trailer in my yard! It's not even gotten to the point of being neglected in the back of the paint shop. :surprise:
Well, double-bummer! I hope you can get the color on soon.
 

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Congrats on the progress! I've been putting my 10,000 piece Mach 1 jigsaw puzzle back together for the last year. Lots of trips to NPD and aitozone to get the missing pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #287
^^ Thanks. Assembling my Mustang by hand sure does put me in awe of the industrial complex which first built it in mere hours.

Haven't made much progress lately. I want to get the engine ready to bolt up to the transmission so I can order the TKO 600. I got some spark plug wires, but I was sick yesterday and didn't feel like doing much of anything. Hoping to at least get the plug wires on today. It occurs to me I must first locate the distributor. Time to go to the basement...
 

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Discussion Starter #288 (Edited)
I spent most of the day cutting, stripping, crimping and installing spark plug wires. I opted for a custom set from Taylor. That's a spark plug wire tool from Accel which I picked up at my local O'Reilly. It worked really well for stripping the wire without damaging the core. Otherwise, it wasn't any better than a regular pair of pliers for crimping.



I removed the valve cover to make sure the number one piston was at TDC to fire, then stabbed in the distributor. To review, I sent it to Dan at Glazier-Nolan many months ago. He rebuilt and calibrated it according to my cam card.



It's been a long time since I installed a distributor. To make it more idiot-proof, I put a mark on the distributor at the number one spark plug wire position and made sure the rotor was centered on it.



I then rotated the engine to 16 degrees BTDC, indicated by the red mark, and rotated the distributor to again line up with the mark. I later realized my instructions from Dan said to set it at 14 degrees BTDC. So, I'll reset it.





Well, here's how it turned out. I wanted to route the wires in front of the valve covers than over the top as they came from the factory. Not only do I like this look better, I'm thinking it will make removing the valve covers easier. I have a solid lifter cam which will require an occasional lash adjustment. I admit I once again took inspiration from Mr. Buckeye Demon. I liked how he installed the plug wires on his 408 Windsor. Although, the valve cover bolts are different on a Cleveland and I had to improvise.





On a Cleveland, you're supposed to separate the number 4 & 5 plug wires to prevent misfires. At least, that's what I've heard and read. Not sure how true it is. Anyway, this took a bit more improvising. My plug wires might appear imprisoned with all the lugs, but I think I'm happy with it.

 

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Nice work Klutch! I too used those plug wire holders. Kinda spendy but they work great and make the engine look pretty dang nice. I've had my valve covers off a few times and no wires over the covers make it easy work.
 

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Discussion Starter #291 (Edited)
I've been messing with the brake lines for the past few weeks. The kit I got from Chockostang included an adjustable proportioning valve which I had to integrate into the system. Also, the master cylinder I got with the kit has much smaller holes than the threaded fittings on my brake lines. (I think I recall reading it's actually a master cylinder for a Maverick?) My brake kit came with multiple brake line adapters, but none of them were big enough to work with my brake lines. This may be because my car is a very late 1970 model. Maybe Ford started throwing on very large threaded fittings?

Anyway, I decided to cut the lines, install threaded fittings to match the master cylinder and re-flare the lines. This took me a long time since I'd never worked with brake lines before. Thus, I expect all my connections will hemorrhage the instant I put fluid into the system. I thought about using silicone brake fluid to save all my paint work. I hope to do some autocrossing if I ever get this beast on the road and, apparently, silicone brake fluid is less than optimal for performance use. The information on the internet is all the over the place, so I can't be sure.

Here are some pictures of my brake line work and mounted proportioning valve. Again, I've never done this before. I hope it looks and works OK.







I hope to order the transmission this week. To review, I'm going with a TKO-600 from Modern Driveline. They claim to have a modified top which allows the trans to bolt right into my car while maintaining the factory drive line angle. Of course, I won't know until it's all together and in the car. I suppose I should have mocked it all up years ago, but I really didn't have any place to store the transmission while waiting for the car to be ready for it.
 

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Looks good to me! Here's a tip: while you don't have any fluid in the system, make sure that the top of the MC where the lid seal rests is perfectly flat. They (the repro Mav masters) seem to leak pretty prolifically and I think that it's because they're not completely flat across the top, so the seal isn't good. Or maybe they leak for some other reason, who knows. Mine just dribbles fluid out of the lid from the front though.
 

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On a Cleveland, you're supposed to separate the number 4 & 5 plug wires to prevent misfires. At least, that's what I've heard and read. Not sure how true it is. Anyway, this took a bit more improvising. My plug wires might appear imprisoned with all the lugs, but I think I'm happy with it.

I love your choice of valve covers, plug wires and plug wire routing! This is my 302 Clevor with the Aussie 2V closed chamber heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #294
Looks good to me! Here's a tip: while you don't have any fluid in the system, make sure that the top of the MC where the lid seal rests is perfectly flat. They (the repro Mav masters) seem to leak pretty prolifically and I think that it's because they're not completely flat across the top, so the seal isn't good. Or maybe they leak for some other reason, who knows. Mine just dribbles fluid out of the lid from the front though.
Thanks for the tip, Kelly. I'll take a look at the top of the master cylinder and the seal. I will likely remove it again to paint it with Eastwood's Brake Paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #295
I love your choice of valve covers, plug wires and plug wire routing! This is my 302 Clevor with the Aussie 2V closed chamber heads.
Thanks. I too have the Aussie heads, but it appears my spark plugs are not at and angle as yours are. Not sure what the difference is.
 

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Discussion Starter #296 (Edited)
For weeks I've been fighting a simple, but frustrating, problem. The master cylinder in my disc brake kit did not come with a pushrod. I was supposed to use my old pushrod, but when you remove a pushrod from an old, Ford master cylinder, the retaining clip breaks.

This little, clover-shaped retaining clip is the problem. It's not available from any parts store or Mustang vendor. (Apparently, CJ Pony and other vendors used to sell them, but no longer do.) I found one vendor online selling it. By the time I pay for the clip, shipping and handling, it's $40.00 for a clip which should cost mere pennies. I hate that.

It's actually cheaper to buy a rebuilt master cylinder. I went to multiple parts stores, but got nowhere. I figured I'd just order a master cylinder like my factory example, use the retainer clip and store the master cylinder. At one parts store, I inspected the box to find someone had purchased it, removed the retainer clip and returned it. Looks like I'm not the only person with this issue! At another store, the pushrod was completely different and wouldn't work in my master cylinder. Below you can see my pushrod above and the different pushrod below it.



At yet another parts store, I ordered the master cylinder and found the pushrod was already installed. That doesn't help me. In my last order from NPD, I included a new pushrod boot. I didn't need the boot, but the picture showed a retainer clip was included. I asked the rep if the clip was in fact included. He said he was pretty sure it did. I should have asked him to check because, of course, it didn't. Oh well, that was only $5.00 wasted.

I finally called Dan at Chockostang and asked him what master cylinder came with my kit. He told me it's for a 1974 Maverick with non-power disc brakes. Check. I ordered the Maverick master cylinder. I don't know why I didn't do this in the first place, but I'm hoping there's not some other, stupid issue.

While dealing with the master cylinder issue, I've been trying to figure out where to buy an alternator, starter, fuel pump and voltage regulator. After posting a thread about it here and doing some research, it's looking like pretty much everything comes from China these days. There are options like Concours parts from Dead Nuts On, but man, those are pricey and I'm not building a Concours car. I ended up buying the alternator, starter and fuel pump at my local O'Reilly. At least it's convenient and the parts offer a lifetime warranty. If I ever get this car actually on the road, I'll consider swapping out the Chinese parts with high-end parts. But for now, I just want to get this project going.

I got the voltage regulator from NAPA. They have an Echlin brand which I like, but here again, it's now made in China, so who knows if it's any good.

Even belts are turning out to be an issue. My car came with manual steering from the factory. I Installed factory style power steering. I wasn't sure if I had the right pulleys and what belts I would need which made ordering from a vendor like NPD impractical. O'Reilly had Gates belts, which I like, but they all had the notches in them. (I don't really care if the belts say "Autolite" on them, but I want them to at least look like factory belts.)

NAPA had the old-school belts without notches, but I had to order them. When they came in, one was green (??) so I had to order another and specify black. When I got the belts home, I found the alternator belt was too short. Apparently, NAPA ordered the belt for a Cleveland without power steering although I specifically requested WITH power steering. (The two-groove crank pulley is larger than the one-groove which requires a longer belt.) Thus, I'll be going back to NAPA today to try again.

Furthermore, I couldn't get the water pump pulley to install. It's too big and interferes with the larger, two-groove crank pulley. I called Dan again and, luckily, he had a water pump pulley that should work. Hopefully, I have that by next weekend. (I'm not aware of any salvage yards near me with old Fords where I could source pulleys and such.)

Anyway, I got the alternator and power steering pump installed. When I bolted on the power steering pump, I discovered I'm missing a 1/2 inch spacer that goes between the bracket and the cylinder head. Looks like I can get that from NPD so I'll add it to my next order. Here's a pic of the engine for something to look at among all this verbage. Sorry for the rant, but maybe it will help someone else in similar situations.

 

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Discussion Starter #297 (Edited)
On a positive note, I finally got my transmission. Release the pidgeons!





Cha-Ching! It's a TKO600 which is a 5-speed manual with overdrive. I got it from Modern Driveline. It has a modified top which is supposed to bolt right into a 69/70 Mustang with no mods and maintain the factory drive line angle.

I have not yet received the clutch. It's on back order. MD recommended a kevlar clutch. Wow, that thing is almost $500. They tell me it should outlast me. I sure hope so. I also hope I don't get a rear main seal leak and end up trashing a $500 clutch.

When I get the clutch, I'm hoping to bolt it all together and install it in the car as an assembled unit. Once again, I'm using the example set my Buckeye Demon for this procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #300 (Edited)
My objective today was to get the engine and transmission bolted together so I could install them in the car tomorrow. I dug out the engine plate which was unbelievably grimey. After scraping it, hosing it down with brake cleaner and finally blasting, it was clean.



Today my poor engine came off the stand after being on it for years. I'm hoping it won't have to go back on for any reason.



I had blasted the factory, cast iron bell housing many months ago. A little cleanup, a little primer and some cast blast paint had that looking pretty good. I Installed the flywheel, pilot bushing, clutch and pressure plate. Finally, I bolted on the bell housing.



It's a kevlar clutch. Man, I sure hope I don't get a rear main seal leak. I'd be pretty bummed if I destroyed a $500 clutch with oil.

I'm pretty happy with the way the bell housing turned out. Too bad nobody will see it once it's in the car. Today I was imagining how much time I'd save if I didn't care how anything looked. I could simply slap it all together. But that wouldn't make me at all happy.



Well, the progress was short-lived. I went to bolt on the bell housing to transmission adapter plate and found it wouldn't fit. It wouldn't fit the transmission either. Modern Driveline sent me the wrong adapter plate. I checked the part number on the MD web site and, apparently, the adapter I have is for a T5. Not sure what bell housing it fits, but it doesn't fit mine.

I did some measuring and determined the bolt holes in the TKO 600 line up perfectly with the bolt holes in my bell housing. So, maybe what I actually need is just a spacer plate. Or, maybe it will bolt straight to the bell housing. I'll have to call MD on Monday and find out what's going on. Obviously, I'm pretty disappointed. I expect I'll have to wait a week to send back the wrong adapter plate then wait another week to receive the correct adapter plate.

Whatcha gonna do? Men plan. God laughs.
 
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