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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last Fall I decided to take my 70 Mach 1 that I had previously restored in 2005, and change the drive train. As with many projects this was going to be a small project of just converting from an automatic to a 5-speed, then an engine rebuild was on the list and then it quickly exploded to much more!! When I did the restoration in 2005, I only cleaned and detailed the drivetrain to make it look good and everything was done somewhat stock. (engine was non original and rebuilt by a PO).

All the cars I have done in the past have been to original, so this is a first for me going this far away from stock. The car will be 90% street and 10% track, with the goal of keeping it looking somewhat stock and still maintain my shaker.

Thanks to the many folks that answered my many many questions. I will start posting more pictures.

Yesterday we dynoed the engine so I figured I would start this thread with what has been done, and what is underway. If I went with a Vic Super or adding more than 1/4" spacer, we could have gotten more out of it, but I need to fit this under a stock hood if possible.

Engine:
Ford Racing Boss 351 Block, that is 460 ci, with Z heads
Victor Jr Intake, port matched/polished. Carb surface angle milled 0.3" front to 0" back
AED 950HOM carb, 1/4" spacer- (Fantastic Customer support)
MSD 85840 STEEL GEAR Distributor (clearanced/modified to work with intake, and black cover)
MSD Digital 6AL box, Blaster 2 coil (Will be painted to look more stock)
Vic Mechanical Fuel pump (sand blasted to look more stock and not chrome)
Holley pressure regulator with custom fabbed bracket behind carb allowing pump to carb fuel line on drivers side of carb.
Fuel pressure guage on regulator, and an additional electric one to be inside car.
Taylor Pro Spiral 8mm wires
All AN-8 fittings/hose and 1/2" SS lines from tank to carb. Aeromotive Prefilter with shutoff before pump, and another before carb.
FPA full length headers 1 3/4 pipes entire length- Some minor tweaks were required near steering box and idler arm. Still needed to be ceramic coated after final drive-line install.

Here is a link to the dyno video, only showing a few of the many runs done. This is a 12 hr day condense to 9 minutes.
Boss 460 Dyno Run - YouTube

Ended up at 550HP and 561lb.ft on pump gas with a very streetable engine.
13" Hg vac, so my power brakes will work.


Drive-line Continued:
Quicktime scattershield w/157 tooth flywheel
Hydraulic Clutch setup with slave from Modern Driveline
Clutch assembly: Heavy duty Kevlar/Kevlar disc rated to 650HP
Roller bearings on clutch pedal
TKO-600 - Modified with carbon fiber synchros, and top surface milled with low profile cover for more tunnel clearance-Modern Driveline
Mini Starter is TBD
Moser Center Section, 9 in. Ford, Nodular Iron, Detroit True-Trac, 31-Spline Axle, 3.70:1, 1350 yoke
Strange Alloy Axles with screw in studs, and sealed bearings that do not require axle seals
Driveshaft is still TBD
Leaf spring perches boxed in

Rear Suspension:
Calvert Split Mono-leafs, stock height
Caltracs- Low profile version given bumpy roads here and advice from Calvert racing.
Calvert Racing (Rancho) 9-way Adjustable Shocks
Global West Del-A-Lum Shackles

Front Suspension:- Stock looking
Opentracker Roller stuff: Track LCA's, and Drag UCA's with Roller perches
Roller Idler Arm, all new tie rods and adjusters
Street and Track Adjustable strut bars
Calvert 90/10 shocks for race only. Other shocks for street use TBD
While I am at it, replacing the rest of the steering components as well.

Chassis:
Shock towers have been reinforced on the inside and outside. Custom reinforcements on the inside, and the standard 45 degree plate on the outside.
Arning/Shelby 1" drop
Tinman subframe connectors, with an additional mounting points bolted into seat pan weld area with reinforcement plates inside.
Tinman driveshaft loop to be modified and installed later- Will bolt into subframe connectors that now have in welded nuts.
Export brace (1 piece)
Control Freak Engine cross brace tying LCA's to frame.

Other:
Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts- I can not lower the engine 1/2", but possibly 1/4" due to oil pan clearance. I looked at clearancing the oil pan, however, due to the stroke, and the less than 1/2" under the windage tray, no modifications are possible.
1/2" SS fuel line from tank-Prebent from Inline Tube to follow factory bends, compensating for larger line.
AN-8 fittings everywhere.
In line prefilter with shutoff making filter changes easier without taking a gas bath.
RobbMc 1/2" in tank sender with AN8 fittings factory installed.
SSB Front Disc brake slotted rotors. Stock style calipers for now.
Rear brakes, drum, with Porterfield R4S shoes
Hurst Roll control line lock
Street tires are BFG Radial TA's (yes they will not hook)
Slicks are TBD
Exhaust 3" TBD

Everything above is here or ordered and I am currently cleaning up the inside/outside of the engine bay and then can get going with reassembly hopefully in a week.


Here is a question. Given the HP of this engine, do you see anything that I have left out to properly support this?

More pics to be added to this thread.

Tony
 

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Last Fall I decided to take my 70 Mach 1 that I had previously restored in 2005, and change the drive train. As with many projects this was going to be a small project of just converting from an automatic to a 5-speed, then an engine rebuild was on the list and then it quickly exploded to much more!! When I did the restoration in 2005, I only cleaned and detailed the drivetrain to make it look good and everything was done somewhat stock. (engine was non original and rebuilt by a PO).

All the cars I have done in the past have been to original, so this is a first for me going this far away from stock. The car will be 90% street and 10% track, with the goal of keeping it looking somewhat stock and still maintain my shaker.

Thanks to the many folks that answered my many many questions. I will start posting more pictures.

Yesterday we dynoed the engine so I figured I would start this thread with what has been done, and what is underway. If I went with a Vic Super or adding more than 1/4" spacer, we could have gotten more out of it, but I need to fit this under a stock hood if possible.

Engine:
Ford Racing Boss 351 Block, that is 460 ci, with Z heads
Victor Jr Intake, port matched/polished. Carb surface angle milled 0.3" front to 0" back
AED 950HOM carb, 1/4" spacer- (Fantastic Customer support)
MSD Distributor (clearanced/modified to work with intake, and black cover)
MSD Digital 6AL box, Blaster 2 coil (Will be painted to look more stock)
Vic Mechanical Fuel pump (sand blasted to look more stock and not chrome)
Holley pressure regulator with custom fabbed bracket behind carb allowing pump to carb fuel line on drivers side of carb.
Fuel pressure guage on regulator, and an additional one to be inside car.
Taylor Pro Spiral 8mm wires
All AN-8 fittings/hose and 1/2" SS lines
FPA full length headers 1 3/4 pipes entire length- Some minor tweaks were required near steering box and idler arm. Still needed to be ceramic coated after final drive-line install.

Here is a link to the dyno video, only showing a few of the many runs done.
Boss 460 Dyno Run - YouTube

Ended up at 550HP and 561lb.ft on pump gas with a very streetable engine.
13" Hg vac, so my power brakes will work.


Drive-line Continued:
Quicktime scattershield w/157 tooth flywheel
Hydraulic Clutch
Kevlar/Organic disc
Roller bearings on clutch pedal
TKO-600 - Modified with carbon fiber synchros, and top surface milled with low profile cover-Modern Driveline
Mini Starter is TBD
Moser Center Section, 9 in. Ford, Nodular Iron, Detroit True-Trac, 31-Spline Axle, 3.70:1, 1350 yoke
Strange Alloy Axles
Driveshaft is still TBD
Leaf spring perches to be boxed in.

Rear Suspension:
Calvert Split Mono-leafs, stock height
Caltracs- Low profile version given bumpy roads here and advice from Calvert racing.
Calvert Racing (Rancho) 9-way Adjustable Shocks

Front Suspension:- Stock looking
Opentracker Roller stuff: Track LCA's, and Drag UCA's with Roller perches
Roller Idler Arm
Street and Track Adjustable strut bars
Calvert 90/10 shocks
While I am at it, replacing the rest of the steering components as well.

Chassis:
Shock towers have been reinforced on the inside and outside. Custom reinforcements on the inside, and the standard 45 degree plate on the outside.
Still need to drill holes for Arning/Shelby 1" drop
Tinman subframe connectors, with an additional mounting points into seat pan weld area
Tinman driveshaft loop to be modified and installed later- Will bolt into connector welded nuts.
Export brace (1 piece)
Control Freak Engine cross brace tying LCA's to frame.

Other:
Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts- I can not lower the engine 1/2", but possibly 1/4" due to oil pan clearance. I looked at clearancing the oil pan, however, due to the stroke, and the less than 1/2" under the windage tray, no modifications are possible.
1/2" SS fuel line from tank-Prebent from Inline Tube to follow factory bends, compensating for larger line.
AN-8 fittings everywhere
RobbMc 1/2" in tank sender
SSB Front Disc brakes, and need to determine what caliper
Hurst Roll control line lock
Street tires are BFG Radial TA's (yes they will not hook)
Slicks are TBD

Everything above is here or ordered and I am currently cleaning up the inside/outside of the engine bay and then can get going with reassembly hopefully in a week.


Here is a question. Given the HP of this engine, do you see anything that I have left out to properly support this?

More pics to be added to this thread.

Tony
Safety straps to hold that engine down if the mounts break, it sounds like a nice build! Also pics. :thumbsup:
 

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Sounds like an awesome build! Christmas came late for you this year!

BTW - "Fuel pressure guage on regulator, and an additional one to be inside car."

I hope the one inside the car will be an electrical unit and not a mechanical one. It's never a good idea to plumb fuel into the interior...

Other than that, you're gonna have some fun! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Engine pics


Some of the initial intake work.



After port matching and polishing. Runners were cleaned up, especially along the short side.





Some things do not like up exactly, such as the 1970 351W power steering bracket, so it has to be lengthened slightly to work with the water pump. One of the challenges is also with the alignment of the puleys. This was an initial mockup.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Initial engine fitment.

Wanted to get a general idea how everything lined up with the top of the fenders.


Yes that is a fiberglass unit that I plan on butchering up top make fit.




Oil pan clearance is minimal. Inside of the oil pan there is less than 1/2" of clearance below the windage tray, so no room for clearancing, and with the stroke, no room to move the tray up.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tinman subframe connectors with an added bracket under the seat pans. At this point the car was still on its OEM suspension and I wanted to weld in the connectors before removing the front/rear suspension. Now that the rear is pulled out, I can drop this exhaust that was all one piece.

There is a bracket under the carpet just on the edge of the seat pan that 2 bolts on each side will go through and into the tabs welded onto the connectors. I felt it was better to do this, versus welt to the floor pan for strength.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Restored pedal assembly. This was originally an automatic car. Added roller bearings while at it.


 

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Discussion Starter #8
Safety straps to hold that engine down if the mounts break, it sounds like a nice build! Also pics. :thumbsup:
Thanks... I have been trying to figure out how to get one in, but with the power steering pump, not much room on that side. Right now with the Ron Morris motor mount design, a weld would have to break.
 

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you didn't say much about the clutch, what HP is it ratted for?
you will find that when you put the slicks on, the clutch HP rating becomes very important.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you didn't say much about the clutch, what HP is it ratted for?
you will find that when you put the slicks on, the clutch HP rating becomes very important.
Good catch--I am actually looking back at that. The one I have still in the box is a 10.5" Kevlar/Organic rated to 500. I need to find something else, but I still want something decent on the street.
 

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Good catch--I am actually looking back at that. The one I have still in the box is a 10.5" Kevlar/Organic rated to 500. I need to find something else, but I still want something decent on the street.
This guy will have what you need.

Lykins Motorsports, LLC
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like an awesome build! Christmas came late for you this year!

BTW - "Fuel pressure guage on regulator, and an additional one to be inside car."

I hope the one inside the car will be an electrical unit and not a mechanical one. It's never a good idea to plumb fuel into the interior...

Other than that, you're gonna have some fun! ;)
Yes the one inside will not be mechanical. I stuck the one on the regulator to make the dyno run easier and may just leave it there for future use when working under the hood. I only want smoke at the tires and not inside :)

This guy will have what you need.

Lykins Motorsports, LLC
Thank you.
 

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If not installed, Modern Driveline has a full Kevlar/Kevlar one they sold me for my BBF 460 that dyno'd very similar only weighs a butt load more :) It put down 560/560 and they suggested it as an ideal street clutch for this engine. Depending on your flywheel, they may be able to work with you if you bought your K/O clutch from them on a trade out.

Build up looking nice!
 

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You've built my dream engine. I was actually looking at the 2014 Ford Motorsport catalog earlier today, dreaming about that 351 Boss block. 70 MACH 1 is one of my favorites too, awesome build.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If not installed, Modern Driveline has a full Kevlar/Kevlar one they sold me for my BBF 460 that dyno'd very similar only weighs a butt load more :) It put down 560/560 and they suggested it as an ideal street clutch for this engine. Depending on your flywheel, they may be able to work with you if you bought your K/O clutch from them on a trade out.

Build up looking nice!
Thanks. Yes I purchased it there and it is still in the box. How do you like that clutch?


You've built my dream engine. I was actually looking at the 2014 Ford Motorsport catalog earlier today, dreaming about that 351 Boss block. 70 MACH 1 is one of my favorites too, awesome build.
The folks at Ford Motorsports have been great. I started talking with them last Sept and they have been very responsive to my many questions and got me very answers. In fact, in have found that most of the specific manufacturers/vendors(Ford Racing- RayH, AED-John Dickey, MSD-Tech Support, Modern Driveline-Paul and Bruce), have been great to work with.
 

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"Thanks. Yes I purchased it there and it is still in the box. How do you like that clutch?"

(You'd think after doing forums for over 10 years, I'd know how to do quotes. LOL)

My clutch still in box too, but they said it was well worth the coin for upgrade. My 70 ran 6.4 1/8th with similar numbers of yours with auto slush box. I know you don't plan on track lapping but that's a 9.9 car if you can hook it up and keep weight below #3k as a motivating build point.

The 69 460 convertible is an "excuse car". It is the car that justifies me upgrading others as it gets left over/take off's. Old race motor, old upgraded suspension, old Wilwood brake assemblies, left over TKO non RR.....If I stick my current aftermarket parts on another car, it means I didn't waste the money.....right? Like a woman saving money shopping.

Opinions on FPA vs Accufab headers in this instance? Are the Z heads ports as high as say TEA or Canfields?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
"Thanks. Yes I purchased it there and it is still in the box.

Opinions on FPA vs Accufab headers in this instance? Are the Z heads ports as high as say TEA or Canfields?
The Z heads ports are .625" high, so like the Canfield heads. In fact with my discussions with some of the Ford support folks, one person mentioned that the first version of the Z heads were designed by Canfield. They also have a dual bolt pattern. The standard 351W and also one further out.

On the FPA's I have full 1 3/4" pipes and I can very easily get to all bolts. The large pipes do make it very very tight at the shock towers. I did an initial test fit with the engine in the car at the approx correct angle and location and and with the scattershield in place. There are 2 main areas that I do need to clearance the pipes. One near the steering box about 2" long and 3/8" to be modified, and one near the frame above the idler arm. It may be that once I correct the steering box area, that will shift the engine enough to be good on the idler arm. That work will happen once I get all of the suspension back on, and can do another test fit with the engine and tranny in place.

I have not used Accufab so no comment.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Chassis reinforcements

Finally finished cleaning up the underside last week after welding all of the chassis reinforcements that included, Timman subframe connectors, and inner and outer shock tower supports. There are also 2 nuts on each inner side of the subrfame connectors that are welded in, so later I can bolt the driveshaft loop in, and make it easy to remove. The driveshaft loop also has a heavy rectangular steel cross brace that will add some stiffening.

I decided to weld everything while the car was still sitting on its suspension to minimize anything being twisted. Once welded, all suspension and everything under neath was removed and the cleaning up and painting continued.




Now the painting begins.


Added some welded tabs to the subframe connectors that bolt through the seat pan area. I welded the 2 bolts on each side to a bracket inside the car and then through the floor pan right where the seat pans are riveted and finally through these connector tabs where the nuts are. Having the bolts welded make sit easy to tighten them up form the underside. All grade 8 nuts and bolts.



 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
1/2" SS fuel line install

To feed the 950CFM on top of the engine I went with 1/2" line from the tank to the carb.

I had inline tube bend me the 1/2" tubing front and rear section so it was about 75% there. I bent my own pump to carb piece from a straight length. When I placed the order I asked them NOT to flare any ends so I could flare them myself for AN8 fittings and install a pre-filter near the tank.

Now with the bigger tubing, I had to do some additional bending and rebending in areas which I used a good quality bender. Since the tubing was already bent, there were areas, near the say bar that I had to make my own jig out of pipe to make some additional bends since the bender would not fit. This was needed to move the line slightly to minimize any interference. Even with the pre-bent tubing to start with it took a full day to get everything done. The line has a nice tight fit, and is tucked right up in the rear wheel well. It is a PIA to bend this stuff.


AN-8 fittings everywhere.
I used an in line prefilter from Aeromotive with shutoff making filter changes easier without taking a gas bath.
RobbMc 1/2" in tank sender with AN8 fittings factory installed. The sender has a return port that I am currently not using, but its there if needed. To support the fuel filter I took 2 strips if stainless steel flat stock and made a bracket to secure it to the underside. The brackets were bead blasted then painted to match the filter. On the inside edge of that flange where the gas tank sits, I welded in 2 studs, so I can easily unbolt the filter for cleaning. The one place that I could not use AN8 fittings was near the front torque box where the front and rear line sections connected. The front line could not be flared before installing, otherwise the nut would not slide through the torque box, and it could not be done after since there was not enough room to get the flare tool up there. So I used beaded stem flares (bubble flare like on an OEM line) there and slipped over rubber hose and clamps like the OEM install. If you are replacing the torque box, then that is an ideal time to provide more clearance to slip the flared line and nut through.



Sway bar area was a pain and I has to be sure that with the full motion of the bar it would not contact the line. I had to make the line go back slightly and also had to relocate the mounting bracket, and along the tank, it has to be lowered slightly. There is a clamp at the corner of the tank area to secure the line. All of the brackets I used were Stainless (ordered from Kugel) and they fit the line perfectly.


I also had to do some tweaking on the front piece to get everything to fit properly. Where it goes through the fender skirt, I had to make that hole larger with a step drill in order to fit the AN-8 nut through. Just in case I ever need to pull the line out I did not want to flare it after sticking it through the hole. I just picked up a larger grommet at Lowes that fit perfectly.


For all of the flares on the SS line, I used these copper gaskets to help with a better seal. I shall see once I put gas in the tank if nothing leaks.
 
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