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1970 Ford Mustang Convertible
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I am new to the forums (just joined) and could use a little help. I have a 1970 convertible with a number's matching engine. Very short history of the car - the car was bought in 1970 from Cort Fox Ford in Hollywood California on January 18, 1970 by the original owner. Apparently the owner got into a minor fender bender and was forced to sell the car and did so in 1971 that to none other than my mother.

In 1983 she re-painted the car to a paisley yellow color, redid-the interior to tan, and had the engine rebuilt at 135k miles.

Fast-forward to 2009 where I took over the car and re-painted it red (ok big mistake since the original color was Medium Bright Blue Poly, but at least the job was done properly and we took the car all the way down to the metal and fixed it up). At this time we also added reproduction Magnum 500 wheels to the car (second big mistake as we did not keep the original steel wheels...my mom already had gotten rid of the Argent Styled hub caps that came with the car).

So I don't want to screw up the engine bay and I would like to have people's opinions of what I should do...here is a picture of the engine from a couple of years ago. Some things have changed since then and here are the faults that I know of:

1. Radiator was replaced with a 3-core aluminum radiator, thankful I still have the original and will re-core it to a 3 core at some point in time and get the correct radiator cap

2. Battery died...have a generic battery, but might buy another one of these reproduction AGM batteries

3. Fender bolts are wrong...I still have the originals and will put those back when I get a chance

4. Intake manifold is two colors - I will re-paint on the car

5. Power steering pump is wrong color (and possibly wrong dipstick handle)- entire assembly was just replaced as that pump went bad...it is now black (and works so much better, but mechanic saved my original per my request)

6. Oil dipstick has been painted ford blue

7. Missing j-clip for oil and temp sending wires on valve cover - also have zip-tie on back wires going to dashboard

8. Vacuum port switch incorrect

9. Distributor housing incorrect (I just bought an original correct date-coded Autolite housing...will transfer/rebuild distributor when I get a chance...though I don't look forward to it).

So I guess the question is should I attempt to continue a concourse engine restoration (definitely not doing a re-spray on the car...in too deep to do that) or should I just leave it alone? And if I should keep going, what other corrections do I need to make?

Thanks and I look forward to reading your comments.

755669


755668
 

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1970 Ford Mustang Convertible
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Discussion Starter #2
Here are some pictures of what the car (mid restoration) and engine used to look like:

755671
755672
 

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It's a decent looking car. You seem to have already researched what you want to do. But, to be absolutley "Concours correct", you'll have to knock down the car, and spend a lot of money.
Now, what do you want to do?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's a decent looking car. You seem to have already researched what you want to do. But, to be absolutley "Concours correct", you'll have to knock down the car, and spend a lot of money.
Now, what do you want to do?
Well I know I can't get it absolutely concours correct due to the paint job and interior...but I am just asking about the engine itself. What do I need to do with the engine...I am certainly not against pulling the engine to do a respray (after I have it re-built of course...because "while we are here"...lol).

But in the meantime, I am wondering about other corrections that need to be done to the engine bay and engine itself (ignoring the little wrinkle on the driver side fender...just going to leave that alone).

Thanks
 

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Well there are two rules in this: Everything takes longer than you thought, and, everything costs more than you planned.
Others are going to chime in, but, relax, I don't spend all my time here answering questions.
 

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I think it looks pretty good as is and I'd be inclined to leave it alone. If you want to clean and tidy up the engine bay, that's fine, but when the rest of the car isn't concours correct, I don't think I'd waste my time making sure the engine was "correct".
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Meanwhile, do you have a "Marti Report" for this car. Kind of handy, and interesting to have.
www.Martiauto.com
I do have a Marti Report (the delux one) and also the personalized statistics report. It has revealed some interesting facts about the car. See attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well there are two rules in this: Everything takes longer than you thought, and, everything costs more than you planned.
Others are going to chime in, but, relax, I don't spend all my time here answering questions.
Oh I am so well aware of this :D...take my power steering control valve for example...bought it from NPD, had it installed, and it turns out that the valve is bad...so now I have to have my mechanic remove this defective one and install a new one (NPD is going to give me a refund on the old part, but that is just going to be eaten up by the cost of the new part and labor to install it). :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ok a couple of questions for everyone...
So I am looking more closely at my "before" and "after" pictures and I have noticed a couple of things: that the vacuum advance on the original distributor is a dual diaphragm, but the second hose to the advance is not connected.

1. Does this mean I could get away with running a single diaphragm distributor?
2. Did this model year come with the "yellow top" ignition coil?
3. Did these engines normally come with the longer snorkel / vacuum operated temperature door or the shorter thermostatic kind?

Here is a picture of the engine that I took this morning so you can see its current state (the ones I provided were before the restoration and one from when it was in "really good shape"

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update:

I looked at the concoursmustang.com forum and asked about my engine. In short, I got mutilated on the condition of the engine...decided I should just be happy with the driver that I have and forget restoring the engine concours style...don't have the time or the money. However I did check deadnutson.com and have already bought some parts and created a list of parts that I want.

Also there is one part that I just got extremely lucky with...a NOS charcoal canister to air cleaner evap hose...the cardboard/paper kind...not the aluminum hose I have on now. looking forward to getting it. Will only use it at shows. So if moderatos want, they may close this thread.
 

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Don't let the concourse guys bug you. I've known them for many years and if you want to talk concourse, you are going to get mutliated if not perfect! They have good intentions, and hey, they are puppy dogs compared to the Corvette Concourse guys. What you have is a great driver! Enjoy it for what it is. Being that it has a different color paint job, going concourse on a driver is not really that beneficial. If it were me, and I wish it were, I love the car, I would just continue to clean/paint and improve the look a little at a time. If you do intend to pull the motor, put a good black paint job on the inner wells, get the colors of the various suspension pieces right (lots of good paints for that), make sure you use the DARK Ford Blue on the engine (yours looks too light) and study, study, study the Concourse site for images. Buy the concourse paint colors pamphlet (most of the suppliers sell it). Enjoy your car (and let me know if you ever want to sell it!!!!)
 

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So I am looking more closely at my "before" and "after" pictures and I have noticed a couple of things: that the vacuum advance on the original distributor is a dual diaphragm, but the second hose to the advance is not connected.

1. Does this mean I could get away with running a single diaphragm distributor? Why would you want to?? You are asking about concourse condition, but want to change to something that it isn't?
2. Did this model year come with the "yellow top" ignition coil? Most likely.
3. Did these engines normally come with the longer snorkel / vacuum operated temperature door or the shorter thermostatic kind? Good Question for the Forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Don't let the concourse guys bug you. I've known them for many years and if you want to talk concourse, you are going to get mutliated if not perfect! They have good intentions, and hey, they are puppy dogs compared to the Corvette Concourse guys. What you have is a great driver! Enjoy it for what it is. Being that it has a different color paint job, going concourse on a driver is not really that beneficial. If it were me, and I wish it were, I love the car, I would just continue to clean/paint and improve the look a little at a time. If you do intend to pull the motor, put a good black paint job on the inner wells, get the colors of the various suspension pieces right (lots of good paints for that), make sure you use the DARK Ford Blue on the engine (yours looks too light) and study, study, study the Concourse site for images. Buy the concourse paint colors pamphlet (most of the suppliers sell it). Enjoy your car (and let me know if you ever want to sell it!!!!)
Thanks for the encouragement. I just did a tune up on it last weekend...and I have now decided it is just going to be a great driving car (especially since I am now running a Pertronix ignition instead of points in the distributor). I do eventually plan to pull the motor, but it would be for rebuilding purposes and I guess that is when I would work on the engine bay. However, I have looked at the engine on the underside and have found that the engine was originally painted the ford light blue, not the dark blue as you suggested. But that will be for a later time. Thanks
 
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