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Discussion Starter #1
Well after lurking here reading the build threads of others, it is time I stop procrastinating and get my build thread going.

This is going to be a long term project, likely 3 years or more, ideally will be done in 2021 or sooner. The build started with a mostly rust free two owner California car. Although I was not specifically after a Mach 1, I was after a 1970 fastback. The end product will be a Boss 302 tribute car, however the 302 will be a 2nd generation Coyote.

Before anyone gets annoyed with changing a Mach 1 into a Boss 302 tribute, please note that the original owner nuked the original 351 Cleveland and replaced it with a 302 of unknown origin. When purchased, the car did not run so there was no plan to restore the unknown stock engine. The original owner also destroyed the original Calypso Corral orange paint by doing several a really poor repaints in a silver blue metallic. Given the original engine, transmission, and paint are gone, any attempt to restore the car would cost far more than the gain.

So my build plan is as follows:

The car will be a Trans Am look 1970 Boss 302 tribute. No hood scoop, but with all the Boss 302 graphics modified somewhat from the original layout. I want to combine the 1969 Mach 1 hood treatment with the Boss 302 side stripes. A good example for the look is the 1969 Gateway Mustang built for Auto Trader magazine.

Body modifications will be very limited to removing the Mach 1 rocker mouldings and tail trim. No final decision on shaving door handles as yet, but I do like those trick door handles that Kindigit design sells.

Front Suspension will be the high HP front clip, splined anti-roll bar, 13” Wilwoods, and dual adjustable shocks from Total Control Products. The shock towers will be removed as part of the front clip installation to make room for the Coyote engine.

Rear suspension will be TCP g-link rear. I am staying with stock rear tubs to maintain the rear fold down rear seat option. Going dual adjustable coil-overs with splined rear sway bar. Rear tires will be 295, with 305 as possibility.

Wheels will like be Magnum 500 look in a 18” size. I like larger wheels than stock but just large enough to clear the larger brake rotors and calipers. I would like to see 255’s up front and 295’s at the rear.

Interior will be mostly stock appearing with some updates. I plan to redo the Mach 1 seats with new more highly bolstered foam to keep original look but improve comfort and ability to stay planted in the seat. AC is a must and power windows are likely. Modern Dakota Digital analog instruments to replace the original gauges.

Motor/Trans – Second Gen Coyote with 6R80 automatic. Not sure if the engine will be left stock or modified with Boss 302 intake and new cams. I may just leave it stock to begin with and modify later should I decide to seek more power. Also considering Borla stack injection as an option.

I am looking to build a vintage looking car with modern engine and suspension. Looking for a chassis that can handle the added HP and handle well enough to be auto crossed at times.

For color, although I like the Penske orange, but my wife hates orange. Second choice is the Ford metallic black with a dark metallic gray for the striping. Stripes will be gloss so entire body can be clear coated and color sanded. Stripes will have a subtle “phantom” look rather than a bright look at me appearance. Another possibility is a dark cherry red pearl and staying with the dark metallic gray for the stripping.

So far I have taken the car down to not much more than a shell. The only serious rust issue is the lower cowl is rusted through is several places. I am hoping the repairs can be limited to patch panels, but access is limited to the openings in the upper patch panel. A new cowl assembly has been purchased, so full replacement is now more likely.

The OEM front sub-frame has been cut from the car and the TCP front clip positioned and tack welded. I am cutting out the remainder of the rear frame rails to make room for the new lower TCP frame rails.

Here are a few pics of the car after it arrived home in late 2016.






Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Stripping Out the Interior

Here are pictures of the interior with most of the dash, carpet, seats, doors, etc. removed. Although there is some surface rust on the floors, nothing severe enough to require panel replacement.












Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Coyote from Donor Mustang GT

In September 2017, I picked up a 2017 Mustang GT at auction. The car was very low miles and had a junk title, so only good for parts. The car had been a Hertz rental, got in a wreck, and was partially stripped. The engine and 6R80 transmission are what I was after and got them at a great price compared to buying new parts.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cutting Out OEM Front Sub-frame

The engine compartment was gutting in preparation to cutting out the old sub-frame.



Most of the work was done with a Sawzall which made pretty quick work of the removal.




 

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Discussion Starter #6
Installing TCP Front Sub-Frame

Using my engine hoist, I was able to install the new TCP front sub-frame and position it for tack welding.






 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Installing TCP Lower Front Frame Rails

Once the upper sub-frame was positioned and tack welded, the lower OEM frame rails were cut out to allow the lower TCP frame rails to be installed. The sub-frame I am installing is what TCP terms their high HP or full length sub-frame.


[img





This is the progress to date. Tomorrow, a friend will come in to do the welding for me since I am a welding novice.

Alan
 

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Very cool. Does the kit come with sub-frame connectors to tie it in to the rear frame and rockers?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Very cool. Does the kit come with sub-frame connectors to tie it in to the rear frame and rockers?
Dan: The sub-frame connectors are an option you purchase separately. I will get them when I purchase the rear suspension. A nice feature to the TCP sub-frame connectors is an integral driveshaft safety loop. Once the front sub-frame is welded in place, I am debating if it is time to get the front suspension and steering. My thinking is that I need to get the major pieces in place so that I can rule out interference issues. I will likely get the Coyote and transmission in place and then add the suspension, steering, add the PS pump and hydroboost power brakes.

Alan
 

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Nice build! I will be watching.

I really think I would spring for the Boss 302 upgrades to the Coyote. If it is going to say Boss 302 on the outside, it has to scream Boss 302 under the hood. The Boss 302 intake will set it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice build! I will be watching.

I really think I would spring for the Boss 302 upgrades to the Coyote. If it is going to say Boss 302 on the outside, it has to scream Boss 302 under the hood. The Boss 302 intake will set it off.
One way to go which I have considered. What I have my eyes on is the thought of installing the Borla stack fuel injection. Nothing screams engine porn like stack injection. They make one that looks like vintage Webers, yet is modern fuel injection. Borla claims HP with their SI is on the order of 525 at the crank. Can't get that kind of looks or power with the Boss 302 intake setup.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #15
First Round of Welding on Sub-frame Complete

With help from a local builder, the sub-frame was welded into the car. The welder was having issues with weld penetration, especially when welding overhead. Plan is to purchase a rotisserie and go back later and clean up and make another pass to improve the weld quality. I have moved on to cutting out the shock towers, replacing the front inner fender panels and radiator support.



 

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Discussion Starter #16
Need Source for Front Sheet Metal Position Info

With the passenger side shock tower removed, new front inner fender and radiator support mocked up in place, I need a resource for position information to confirm the sheet metal is properly located. Is there a source that professional body shops use to locate the panels when rebuilding a wrecked car? This is the kind of resource I am looking for. The sub-frame is properly positioned checking both level and square before welding it in. Now I have to get the inner fenders and radiator support properly positioned so that the fender, grill, hood support and latch, etc. all fit correctly when assembled.

Thanks,

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Received Controls Pack for 2nd Gen Coyote with 6R80 AT

Fedex brought me a present yesterday afternoon, the Ford Performance Controls Pack for 2nd Gen Coyote with 6R80 AT. I did a quick inventory and all looks to be present. I would like to add that I purchased the Controls Pack through Mike at Levittown Ford Parts. There price was better than other distributors by $150 with free shipping. Mike kept me in the loop all through the purchase cycle as FP delayed shipping twice.



Alan
 

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Love the build.

Interesting that you used the Max jax and the engine hoist to get the frame in place. I have the same lift. Works really really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Interesting that you used the Max jax and the engine hoist to get the frame in place. I have the same lift. Works really really well.
To get the body level on the lift, I found I needed some method of leveling the body. Don't know if it is a characteristic of the Max Jax lifts, but mine does not lift evenly from side to side, even at maximum lift height. So I found that BendPak sells adjustable lift pads for two post lifts that do fit on the Max Jax arms. They work well and gave me about 2" of adjustability at each pad. The adjustable pads are limited to 2" because there is no hole in the Max Jax lift arm as there is in a Bend Pak model. Once the body was leveled on the lift, it was easy to get the sub-frame in place, aligned, level and square. I got my set of adjustable lift pads from Summit, just added the link below to show a picture.

https://jmcautomotiveequipment.com/bendpak-adjustable-screw-lift-pad-with-receiver-each/

Alan
 

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I think there's always a bit of difference in when the lift arms move. On my 4 post, the rear starts moving up just a hair after the front starts. There's probably some way to make adjustments to get it perfect, but it's close enough.

Great solution on finding the adjustable pads.
 
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