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Discussion Starter #181
Speaking of MSS and welding... I'm going to be using this on frame rails, etc. But I've been wondering if you can use it on the backside of where I'll be spot welding (i.e. bottom of the frame rail flange where I'd be spot welding the new trunk floor from the top). Or should one just leave the MSS back a couple of inches until welding is done and then coat backsides? Sorry for a possibly silly question. I'm new to all of this and just trying to learn and prep and plan ahead. Also Boss5Oh, what copper-infused weld-thru primer did you use and did you like it? TIA
In my case, no previous experience working with MSS, so I kept it at least 1/2" to 3/4" away from where I would be welding. In those areas surrounding the plug weld holes and on the flanges to be welded to the floor, I applied EuroSpray Weld Thru Primer Copper.
We only have one automotive paint store in Prescott, Wesco, and I used what they had. Not cheap, about $38 a 15.2 oz can. Another guy 7T0S here on VMF has been using Cobre WTP, but I could not even find a dealer for it. The EuroSpray product seemed to work OK, but nothing to compare it to. In the area where I did the plug welding, I got some spitting initially but that settled down as I worked around the plug weld hole. I even tried scratching though the WTP to see if the weld started up better, but no help and maybe not as good.
MSS suggests two coats which I did. It goes on pretty thick with a brush, so there could be a lot of material to burn off. I would be concerned about the fumes generated if you apply it near where you plan to weld. The material data sheets that come with the MSS warn about using a respirator when spraying the product so it has some harmful ingredients when airborne. When applying it with a brush, it has a very potent odor. I kept the garage open when applying it and boy did it stink up the place by morning.
I hope this helps, but difficult for a newbee to help another newbee.
 

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I put mss between my panels and just used an end mill in a drill bit to remove it from the hole where I was welding. I noticed it doesn't burn off much on the top panel around the welds.
 
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I just read through the entire thread and what a great build. Thank you for sharing and taking us along for the ride. I am very much looking forward to seeing the final product, please please keep posting updates.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
A few years back I built a Factory Five Cobra replica. Although I took an abundance of pictures, I never put together a build page for the Cobra. I sold the car in 2018 to fund my Mustang build and the new owner received all of my research and pictures taken throughout the build. I benefited greatly from the knowledge posted by other builders on the Factory Five Forums, one in particular was building virtually a carbon copy of my formula who was 9 months to a year ahead of me. That was where I learned how beneficial it is to share what we learn, which components we bought, and how we integrated all the pieces together. For my Mustang build, I decided early on to document my build here to share what I have gone through good and bad. I am the only build here using the Total Control Products front clip and suspension both front an rear that I am aware of. When done, I hope that what I have learned can be of use to others.
As those who have built, are building or are thinking about a Coyote based 1st gen Mustang restomod, I hope that what I have done will educate prospective builders on which manufacturers components will best meet their criteria.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
New effort, replacing the tail light panel.
Over time, I realized car had a number of minor rear end collisions. The rear tail light panel had a number of dents and was wavy over its length. Although it was possible to repair it, lots of hours by a body man far more skilled than myself was needed. In addition, my car will be a Boss 302 tribute so the Mach 1 plastic panel will not be used. There are a number of mounting holes for the Mach 1 panel which would need filling. Since I can plug weld fairly well, I chose to replace rather than repair the tail light panel. The replacement panel is from CJPP, one of their classic panels said to be of increased thickness. I picked up the panel months ago prior to the virus, looks good.

Here is the state of the work so far. I have cleaned off the old paint to reveal the spots welds. I marked center, center punched them and then drill with a 1/16" bit to provide a locator for the plug weld cutter.








So looking for suggestions, tip and tricks as to how to best remove the old panel as well as installation of the new one.
Looks like I will need to remove the center tail light brace and possibly the bumper braces.
 

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You have to be pretty aggressive with a taillight panel; lots of spot welds all over the place. I don't think you'll need to remove the bumper braces. Rather, just be sure to cut all the spot welds attaching them to the taillight panel. I think you will need to remove the center brace. It's easier to install it once the new taillight panel is in place.

When you have the old taillight panel removed, I would suggest shooting some primer inside those bumper braces from the rear. Take advantage of that access while you have it.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
A bit more progress yesterday and this morning. Just about all of the spot welds on the outside at cut out. Only a few that refuse to release remain. Although not as bad a job as fully replacing the cowl, still not fun. BTW, I decided on buying a spot weld cutter and replacement cutters from McMaster Carr. Although more expensive than HF, they cut better and last longer too. The mandrel with cutter is about $20, but replacement cutters are about $5 each.

Looking closely at the way the tail light panel is formed, the bumper braces will need to come out. The TLP wraps around the end of the bumper braces. In order to install the new panel without damaging it, it needs to slip in from the top at the corners between the end cap and the rear trunk support. You just cannot do this with the bumper brackets in place. So another step is required, however maybe not a bad thing. Ford used what seems like half a tube of seam sealer all around the bumper bracket and the seam between the rear trunk support and the tail light panel. As I cut and scraped the seamer sealer away, our friend the rust monster was present. Fortunately the damage is not much more than surface rust, but if not addressed, we know it would get worse. Removing the bumper brackets and the tail light panel will allow me to get in, clean up, treat, and paint these areas before new seam sealer is applied. If a rust story can be a good one, this is.

The bumper support brackets are stitch welded to the floor, so hopefully easier to cut loose than all those spot welds.


 

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Discussion Starter #188
Removed the bumper support bracket on the passenger side. The bracket itself is in good condition, after cleanup should be as good as new. As suspected, the area under the bracket has significant surface rust, but it will clean up. Only one spot weld on each side to the tail light panel fortunately.
These areas will be cleaned and painted with Master Series Silver prior to reassembly. I will then add plenty of seam sealer to help prevent water from getting under and between surfaces.





On to the DS bumper support bracket and the center tail light panel support brace.
 
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