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Greetings Boss50,
The large oval rubber plugs utilized to cap off the 65/66 Mustang rear shock top mount access holes can work great as well. - If you make your oval hole exact to the width of the harness connectors.

Your application (PCM location) and plan is better though given both connectors may need to easily pass through the “port”.
Like others, my PCM is inside the cabin and only the engine harness connector will need to pass through from out to in. Like yours, my vehicle harness resides within the cabin with only a portion of the harness leads passing through from inside to out etc. I don’t plan on a bunch of if any wet weather driving but I’ll also have to get creative to obtain a perfect seal around the harness wires and my “oval plug”.

I hear ya on the harness modifications. I probably have 25 if not more hours thus far in mine. As you mentioned the two harnesses are way too long in many cases and short in others. I’ve probably made more than 250 cuts and at least half of that in splices. All soldered and sealed/heat shrink covered. And yes, many different wire sizes. I “briefly” considered cutting and repinning as well.... When I regained consciousness I started cutting. :p I double and triple checked everything but still have both day and nightmares of trying to run down issues at ”startup”.. I also won’t complete the harness “sheathing“ until all is validated and engine running. Once finalized however, I believe it will be one of the cleanest wired Coyote’s out there.

Sorry for rambling. As always, your build and posting/sharing is awesome. Stay safe and well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Kjsmitty: I don't mind rambling at all, nice to share with someone that understands what we are going through. You have not read my reply to one of your emails, so right back at you regarding the rambling.

When I was in Aerospace, I designed test equipment for some of the electronic units that went on Boeing satellites. Our standards were pretty high given there is no fixing the units once the satellites were on orbit.

I have seen a couple of other 69/70 Mustang Coyote swaps and I too believe mine will be very clean when done.

In my mock ups, I found a rectangular hole 1.8" x 2.9" is about the minimum size required to pass the engine harness connector through. I checked the size of the large oval rubber plugs utilized for the shocks, they are 1.8" x 3.4". These plugs look to be a viable option. I will take my harness and see if the connector will fit through the hole. Using the large plugs would be a economical and OEM looking solution for the pass through. I think I will order a couple of them if the connector goes through the shock mount hole.

So beyond the hole in the inner fender apron for the engine harness to pass through, for my build the other hole will be in the firewall of the inner fender well above where I placed the bulkhead fitting for my Vintage Air AC lines. There is just enough room in the right upper corner of the footwell to place the power distribution box. Makes sense to put in in a place that is clean, dry, and accessible if needed.

Take care, keep posting on your progress, and keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Worked out the AC hoses to the compressor and condenser. I am using the condenser and dryer from Vintage Air for the 69/70 Mustang with their passenger side hardline kit. The hardlines would fit well with a normal sized radiator, but the C&R radiator I am using is very wide. I had to open up the opening in the radiator support and bend the hardlines a bit to get around the edge of the radiator. With that done, I was able to make up the AC lines to fit. There is no room to tighten the connections from the condenser hardlines to the flex lines so I will have to clock them and tighten then as a unit, then connect them to the condenser/dryer and the compressor last. Now I can index mark the lines and fittings and take them to the AC shop and have them crimped. One more piece of the puzzle worked out.



 

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Discussion Starter · #204 · (Edited)
Pretty much have the templates done to mount the PCM to the inner fender apron. I graduated from cardboard to a scrap piece of T5 aluminum sheet so that I could install the wire grommet.

The suggestion from Kjsmitty to use the rear shock mount floor plugs worked great! I like this approach much better over the Seals-it split firewall grommet. The plugs require a smaller footprint to do the same thing and are far cheaper. From NPD, $3 each, so cheap enough that I could ruin a couple in the process.

Again, my thanks to Kjsmitty for the suggestion.



 

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Thank you Boss50,
I believe I actually got the idea from somebody on the forum - or somewhere else maybe. Regardless, just passing on what I found to be a viable option. Your PCM mount/location and harness plan is going to be slick!
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Last week I finally made the commitment to cut the hole for the engine harness connector/plug. I then moved on to making the mounting block in 5/8" thick aluminum bar stock. With the mounts made, I made a template to transfer the mounting hole pattern to the inner fender apron. The template worked great, all the holes aligned with the mounting blocks.

Here are a couple of pictures of the PCM mounted to the IFA.




I will need to work on securing the harness within the engine compartment and on the engine itself. The KRC PS pump and reservoir required moving the harness from its normal mounting point.

I think this mounting approach for the PCM came out pretty good, another detail addressed and behind me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
On to the next step, controls pack harness access to the interior. Although I was looking at splitting and connectorizing the harness, I have changed my approach to use the same shock hole access grommets. The controls pack (body) harness connector is the same size as the engine harness connector. Using the mock up panel I used previously, I verified it passes through the same hole opening with ease. I am working on another mock up to be able to mount the power distribution box. Later down the road I will remove the wire loom tape which will make routing the harness body a bit easier. I am using the Vintage Air Sure Fit evaporator kit for the 70 Mustang. The Vintage Air evaporator does not draw outside air from the stove pipe in the PS corner of the cowl. Vintage Air supplies what they call a fresh air cap, a block off plate really. The leaves room under the cowl not available with the OEM heater core/evaporator. Good news as I plan to mount the power distribution box in the upper corner below the cowl and above the kick panel air vent. This will keep the power distribution box accessible yet hidden for the most part.
The harness is very long between the PCM and the PDB, so the harness will have to be tailored to length. I have done this before in my Factory Five Cobra. The job is not hard, just tedious.

 

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Hey Boss50. Didn't find any reference in the thread about gear ratio you're going with. Debating myself between 3.25 or 3.5 to pair with the coyote and the 6r80, given mostly street use and would prefer a good highway cruising rpm. Do you have your setup figured out yet?

I'm leaning 3.5, looking at various calculators with the tire size we think we'll be running, looks like 75mph will be churning right around 2500rpm. And with the 6r80 gear ratios, should still give plenty of launching power. But we're not entirely sure on tire size yet either, something like 275/40 r17 perhaps in the rear, maybe a little wider, since we're getting the mini tubs. Tough to figure out though, since we're going to be ordering the rear end well before we get to the tire selection, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #209 ·
Hey Boss50. Didn't find any reference in the thread about gear ratio you're going with. Debating myself between 3.25 or 3.5 to pair with the coyote and the 6r80, given mostly street use and would prefer a good highway cruising rpm. Do you have your setup figured out yet?

I'm leaning 3.5, looking at various calculators with the tire size we think we'll be running, looks like 75mph will be churning right around 2500rpm. And with the 6r80 gear ratios, should still give plenty of launching power. But we're not entirely sure on tire size yet either, something like 275/40 r17 perhaps in the rear, maybe a little wider, since we're getting the mini tubs. Tough to figure out though, since we're going to be ordering the rear end well before we get to the tire selection, lol.
Yup, I went with the 3.50 rear gear. I believe the regular gearing in the GT is 3.25, but if you bought a performance package, it was 3.50. The rear gear in the manual GT is 3.73 I believe. I intend on driving my car long distances. I had a 3.55 gear set in my Cobra and cruising at 75 was something like 2200 rpm. I expect with the 3.50 gears in 6th, should be around 2000 rpm, but maybe your numbers are better. I asked Ford Performance if the PCM had to be reprogrammed for a different rear gear ratio, they said no. Not sure how the shift points would change as the axle ratio changes? I will figure that out once the car is running. I will be using a GPS speedometer, so speed will be shown correctly.
Through TCP, I bought their housing for the 9" and they sourced out to Strange for the axles and center section with TrueTrac. A rather expensive setup, but also something I do not think I could break unless the car was supercharged.
With the TCP 4-link, I have 285/35-18s in the back now. Once I have the rear fender lips rolled on my 70, looks like a 295 will fit. TCP said a 305 was possible without mini-tubs, I think that would be a stretch. I took the approach where I bought my tires first and verified fit, then I had custom offset 18x10 wheels made by Team III wheels. I positioned the mounted wheels and tires and measured hub to hub. That measurement was used by TCP to make a custom width axle housing, I believe 1 inch narrower overall than stock. So my wheels and tires are positioned about as good as you can get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Regarding tire and wheel size, also consider the availability of performance tires for the wheel size chosen. My Factory Five Cobra had 17x10.5 inch wheels in the back. Originally many owners went with Kumho XS tires. Nice and sticky with very good handling. Kumho eventually discontinued the XS and introduced a new HP summer tire. Unfortunately Kumho never produced the same 295 and 315 width tires used on the back of the Cobras. Nitto is now about the only performance tire company left making wide 17" tires. Seeing that 17" performance tires were getting harder to get, I chose to go with 18" wheels for my Mustang.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. With the Heidts IRS I was told the max size they got in their 67 was a 275. The mini tub will obviously allow for more , but their engineers are gone for the day now so will have to find that out next week.
I did slight mini tub in my 65 and with a Heidts IRS I am fitting 275, might be able to go to 285 or better. Won't know until I actually have it up and running. Incidently, I deliberately went with the IRS for the 67 to allow me to better utilize late model wheels.
 

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I did slight mini tub in my 65 and with a Heidts IRS I am fitting 275, might be able to go to 285 or better. Won't know until I actually have it up and running. Incidently, I deliberately went with the IRS for the 67 to allow me to better utilize late model wheels.
Nice. With the Heidts IRS, were you able to get your exhaust routed through it? I talked with them about it, and they said it was possible by routing it over the lower control arm and included a side picture of it, but was hoping to verify with someone who actually had experience doing so.
 

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Nice. With the Heidts IRS, were you able to get your exhaust routed through it? I talked with them about it, and they said it was possible by routing it over the lower control arm and included a side picture of it, but was hoping to verify with someone who actually had experience doing so.
Don't want to hi-jack the thread but I had custom tank built to betty allow exhaust routing. Don't have it run yet. Go to my build thread in my signature, here is where tank discussion starts 65 Fastback Restomod Build- Coyote Powered and feel free to ask me any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
Time I posted again. I have been doing a bunch of little things, but they add up. I started forming one of my front brake lines, stopped when it became clear that making the brake lines was a PITA with the Coyote in the way.

I decided to start work on my fuel lines and routing. I am using all Aeromotive parts for the fuel system with exception of the lines and hose ends, those are Summit PTFE.

I mounted up the fuel pressure regulator behind the DS head. This allowed a straight shot to the Coyote fuel rail. I used a Russell fuel rail adapter to convert to - 6 AN male.



While working in the area, I placed the charge motion control valves on the back of the intake. They are just held in place with duct tape for now.


From the regulator I ran -6 AN PTFE lines for both the supply and return lines. I ran them down the firewall, trans tunnel and down the floor over to my subframe connectors and on to the tank.





Only two of the four segments are finished. I need to wait until I have the main supply and return lines secured along the path.
Two secure the supply and return lines, I will use a single clamp. I am using 7/8" Adel clamps to hold the lines in place. I found I can reshape the round clamp to form a oval. I screwed the clamp to a 2x4 and placed two deep sockets with 7/16" OD. A little bit of pounding with a mallet is all the is needed to reshape the clamp.
I am going to use 1/4-20 x 1/2" flanged button head cap screws to make weld on studs. I will grind down the head some and remove the black oxide finish where I will be welding. A nylon lock nut will then hold the clamps in place. I will post more when I finalize the routing but that will have to wait until I pull the engine and trans again. It is so much easier to work when the big stuff is out of the way.

I also made bolt on clamp to hold the rear -3 AN to double flare fittings. To my surprise, I had not previously realized the fuel tank is not centered between the rear frame rails. So a bit of trail an error let to the final placement. The hardline between the rear calipers will wait until all of the rear suspension is removed except for the cradle. I can then form the line without too much interference.



The engine will come out in a few weeks. At that point I will have a lot of welding to do. My subframe notches, unnecessary holes, firewall, transmission tunnel, lower and upper cowl panels, and the new tail light panel will go in. That will complete the welding with the exception of the rear suspension cradle.

About a year from now I will be buying a rotisserie from a local builder when he is done with it. Then the body will be finished with any remaining floor welding and then stripped and prepped for epoxy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
I managed to leave out one of the tasks being worked on. Before the engine comes out, I need to get the PCM harness routing done as well as the AC lines in the PS fender well. I do not like having large gaps between hoses, so like the clamps I made for the fuel lines, I found I could reshape a 1 1/2" Adel clamp to hold both the #10 and #6 AC lines. As with the fuel lines, I will use 1/4-20 x 1/2" flanged button head cap screws to make weld on studs. Two studs for the controls pack body harness and two studs for the AC lines. In the picture, the hoses are basically where I want them, I just have to mark were the studs need to be welded. What I have not figured out yet is how to shield the hoses and harness from moisture and road grime. I am thinking about wrapping them with something, not sure what at this point.

 

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Love this build. I have a 70 fastback that ive owned since 97 and I'm slowly getting back at it and this build is right up my alley. My car has an art Morrison chassis under but most of the rest is close. I'm planning on twin turbo coyote and a t56 magnum. I have everything and unfortunately my chasis was buikt before coyote engines were built so we are fabbing up mounts now. The one piece I need is the booster setup. Your hydratech looks great, called today and they are no longer taking orders cause they are so far behind. That wedge may be the way to go. Tried to find him on ebay but no luck. Those headers turn out good for you? Jimmy is a good friend and they do great work. Looking forward to following this build and bouncing some of my car off of you
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
Love this build. I have a 70 fastback that ive owned since 97 and I'm slowly getting back at it and this build is right up my alley. My car has an art Morrison chassis under but most of the rest is close. I'm planning on twin turbo coyote and a t56 magnum. I have everything and unfortunately my chasis was buikt before coyote engines were built so we are fabbing up mounts now. The one piece I need is the booster setup. Your hydratech looks great, called today and they are no longer taking orders cause they are so far behind. That wedge may be the way to go. Tried to find him on ebay but no luck. Those headers turn out good for you? Jimmy is a good friend and they do great work. Looking forward to following this build and bouncing some of my car off of you
As an alternative to the cantilevered hydroboost setup you see on my build, look at Revology. They have a system that they sell that is NOT cantilevered for about $1K as I recall. The difference is the MC used in the Revology system uses a OEM plastic reservoir. Not pretty at all as I do like my Wilwood MC. Even with the shock towers removed, the Coyote is so wide you run into limited space in some places, like the hood hinges, with loads of room most everywhere else.


In looking up the link, I see that the Revology HB is out of stock too.

When I ordered my unit from Hydratech, it took months to get as every system was built to order. I also believe the Revology HB is made by Hydratech for them.

The hobby has gone nuts in the last year, together with Covid reduced manufacturing output, parts are simply in short supply.
 

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Thanks for looking Alan. It has been a crazy time for sure. I work in a performance exhaust shop and we are so far behind so I get it. I may try a 99-04 mustang hydroboost, they are angled from the factory so it may work. I have an 04 cobra so I may be able to get some measurements there. Keep up the good work cause it's motivating me 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 ·
Thanks for looking Alan. It has been a crazy time for sure. I work in a performance exhaust shop and we are so far behind so I get it. I may try a 99-04 mustang hydroboost, they are angled from the factory so it may work. I have an 04 cobra so I may be able to get some measurements there. Keep up the good work cause it's motivating me 🍻
Its been done, see the Cougar build by 1badcat.
 
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