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Discussion Starter #41
Shock Tower Delete Panel Modifications in Metal

The plan was to stitch weld on 14 gauge metal in place of the cardboard template.

Here is a view of the panel cut to where you can see what was removed.



Here is the 5 1/2" x 15 1/2" x 14 gauge replacement panel.



Here is the panel clamped in preparation for stitch welding.



Here is the first pass on the stitch welding. I made successive passes until all the stitch welds joined, then ground down the weld bead and finished up with an air grinder with a sanding disc.





The same was done on the backside of the panel.



Here are the final results.





I did lengthen the panels as well so that they would mate up to the welding flanges supplied. I have a bit more preparation to do prior to welding in the panels, but for the most part the changes are done.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Radiator Support

I also had located the radiator support and latch support bracket to verify all is aligned properly. I have done corner to corner measurements and all is square within 1/16" and the radiator support is level with the sub-frame. The welding flanges from the sub-frame to the inner fender aprons and shock tower delete panels will be welded in first. The radiator support will be left clamped in place while fitting the engine and transmission. The Coyote and 6R80 transmission make for a large package. Leaving off the radiator support as the modifications to the firewall and transmission tunnel are worked out will make it easier installing and removing the E/T package for however many times it has to go in and out.



After a bit more preparation, I plan to start plug welding in the flanges and panels.

Alan
 

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Looks great. My biggest frustration with the build has been the fact that nothing fits. Even the simple pieces that should mate right up are off. This has been so much harder than building the FFR.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Shock Tower Delete Panels Mostly Welded In

I made some good progress this week completing most of the plug welding for the shock tower delete panels and flanges to tie the inner fender aprons to the new TCP subframe. After having good success with my practice plug welds, I decided that I would just go for it. I found that I liked to weld around the perimeter of the plug weld hole and finish in the center. I was very happy with the results my ESAB Rebel welder provided on the Smart MIG mode. I ran the welder set for the thicker of the metals being joined.

Here are a few pics of the work in progress.

Here is a picture showing the plug welds before grinding and sanding them flat.



Here I have ground most of the plug welds down but some yet to do.



Here are a couple shots from the wheel wells showing the discoloration on the backside and thus the heat transfer.





I should finish up this weekend. I need to pick up some magnets at HF to assist in holding some small patch pieces to fill overlapping holes. In a couple places, the plug weld hole on the shock tower delete panels partially matched up with the old shock tower bolt holes. I have a couple of crescent moon shaped voids I need to fill before final plug welding.

All in all, I thought the plug welding came out great for a novice. Thank goodness for the smart MIG technology, I think made the results better than I could have done without it.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thanks for the pics, especially that of the MC. I plan to use a hydroboost system on my build. I transplanted a 2004 Mach 1 4.6L DOHC engine into the Factory Five Cobra I built a few years back. I think some games are going to have to be played to get the HB and master in the Mustang with the Coyote. One guy here on the VMF put a Coyote in a Cougar and used a offset mount to shift the HB and master toward the drivers side hood hinge. I am hoping to get my donor 2017 GT in the garage next week to start pulling the Coyote and 6R80, can't wait.

The pictures I have seen of the cars built in your shop are impressive, gives me a standard of quality to work for.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Shock Tower Delete Panels Installed

Over the weekend and a few days more, I finished up welding in the shock tower delete panels. I had a bit more welding to do as well as grinding down the plug welds and finishing up everything. I went back and plug welded in the shock tower bolt holes on the tire side of the inner fender panels providing a more finished look. For a first time effort at doing work of this kind, I am very pleased with the results.

Drivers side shock tower delete panel.





Passenger side shock tower delete panel.





There is still a bit of cleanup and final welding to do, but just a few hours total I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Rear Tire Fitting, Wheels and Suspension

With most of the work complete on the TCP subframe install, I have moved on to working on the rear suspension, wheels and tire fitment. I order and received my tires yesterday, Nitto NT05s in 245-40/18 front and 285-35/18 rear. The tech support guys at TCP are working with me to get the right backspacing. The front will be 8x18 with 5" BS, the rear is going to take a bit more effort to determine. I am also working with ET Wheels in CA on the rear BS required. The rear wheels will be 18x10 with a 5 1/2" or 6" BS. The rear G-bar rear suspension from TCP will eliminate the leaf springs, so that gives me about 1" more room to work with. I have positioned one of the tires under the car to verify clearance and so far all looks good. It is possible that a 295 will fit, but I am real happy with the 285 for now. I am going to build a simple fixture with 2x4s to get the tires square to the body and recheck the fit, but I do not expect any issues.

Here are a couple of pics of the 285 in the back, its going to look awesome when done.





The wheels will be the Team III LT-III minilite look wheels. I am after the Trans Am look of 1970 for the car.

ET Wheels by Team III Wheels
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Windshield Removed

The trim removal kit I bought had tools in it for removing the windshield which cam in handy today. There were two tools, a hook with a pull handle to cut out a chunk of the boding adhesive and a handle and wire tool that could be used to slice through the adhesive around the glass. I broke the wire a half a dozen times, but eventually cut enough of the adhesive to allow lifting the glass. Took all of about 20 minutes for a novice, something else I had never done before.

Here is the question, there is a lot of the adhesive left on the body so is there an effective way to remove it without digging into the paint while trying to scrape out the stuff from the channel? Will goof off or Goo Gone break down the stuff to where it is easier to remove? I was thinking about trying mineral spirits since it worked great removing the adhesive used for sound deadener like Dynamat.

Thanks,

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Cowl Replacement, What to Do About VIN Tag?

So the windshield is out, the only rust repair I know of at this time is replacing the cowl assembly. I have exposed all the spot welds outside of the windshield, and once the adhesive is cleaned up from the windshield, I will do the same for the spot welds that were under the windshield.

Question, I know that it can be illegal to remove and replace the riveted on VIN tag, but in my case the entire cowl is being replaced, so what to do? I thought I had read somewhere that the local law enforcement may look at the rivets to see if they have been replaced. Can I simply remove and rivet the VIN tag onto the new cowl or do I need to cut out part of the original cowl and weld it into the new assembly to be "legal". I am in AZ if that matters. I was wondering if I should consult our local Sheriff or MVD, DMV elsewhere, to determine what to do?

Thanks,

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #55
After talking with local Sheriff and DPS, I was directed to MVD(DMV in most states). Our local MVD referred me to their Enforcement officer, only in the office on Tuesdays. I met with the Enforcement officer and I showed him pictures of what needed to be done on the car. I showed him my title, registration, and pictures of the VIN tag and markings on the fender aprons. So I established ownership and that the car had matching VIN numbers on the vehicle. The procedure the enforcement officer gave me is Arizona Vehicle Code paragraph 28-2165, "Special Serial or Identification Number." Essentially, I am allowed to move the VIN tag to new metal when VIN tag must be moved to repair the vehicle as a result of damage whether due to rust, accident, etc. When complete, I will submit a form ADOT 4805108 R10/14 to the Enforcement office that documents the VIN tag having been moved to new sheet metal. The form includes an owner statement as to the reason for removing and reapplying the VIN tag. A new AZ VIN tag will be made up with the original Ford Motor Co. VIN Tag info and affixed somewhere on the vehicle, hopefully in a accessible but not overtly obvious spot. I will obtain matching rosette style pop rivets to attempt to maintain as original an appearance of the mounting of the VIN tag to the cowl assembly. These rivets are available on Ebay, but at $10 a pop, not cheap.

The enforcement officer thanked me for coming in. He said it was highly unusual for someone to come in before the original VIN tag had been removed. I explained that I wanted to mitigate the possibility of doing something illegal. I do not believe in asking for forgiveness afterword when a felony could be involved.

I hope this helps others have an idea of the procedure in AZ, however their states may handle it completely differently.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Donor Mustang Moved into Garage

I finally moved my donor 2017 Mustang GT into the garage Sunday. Life and other projects had gotten in the way a bit with it sitting outside for 10 months till I could get to it. I am in the process of trying to read out the PCM memory in an attempt to determine the mileage on the vehicle when it was totaled out. The car had been a Hertz rental, only 4 months old when totaled. My first attempt to read out the PCM memory yesterday did not work. I found the Blue Driver OBDII reader requires the engine to be running in order to "connect" to the car. I put out a SOS to our local hot rod lunch group and I have been loaned a ODBII reader that the owner has used on two vehicles when not running, so I will try that later today.

Here are a few pictures of the donor.









 

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Discussion Starter #57
Cowl Repair in Progress

Now that I have a plan for the VIN tag, I started working on removing the old cowl from the car. I started by trying to cut the spot welds on the passenger side edge, but progress was slow and I felt a bit blind in that the original spots welds are far from circular. After looking at the replacement upper and lower cowl pieces, I decided to first cutout most of the upper cowl panel so that I could see what was going on underneath.

First, I removed the rear inner fender apron extensions.







Next, I cut along the perimeter of the upper cowl.





The full extent of the rust damage is revealed!









Before removing the top cowl I was pretty sure the lower cowl was pretty roached, now I am sure!

With the top removed, now I plan to grind away the spot welds around the perimeter. I am going to try grinding them down instead of using the spot weld cutter and see how it goes. I figure if I use the spot weld cutter, I have to grind down what is left of the spot weld anyway. We will see how it goes, but anyone with experience in doing this job please chime in if you know a better way.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Wheels and Tires

Last Thursday, my custom wheels from Team III were delivered. I took the tires and wheels into Discount Tire to have them mounted and balanced. The first time I was in the DT Prescott store. The staff was very courteous and did a great job mounting the tires and balancing the wheels. No damage issues at all, just a bit of cleanup to remove the soap residue they use to lubricate the wheel when mounting the tire.

I selected Team III because I wanted a mini-lite look alike wheel, but in a larger diameter and width with custom backspacing to match my Total Control Products suspension. I spent a fair amount of time with Scott at Team III and Mike at TCP fine tuning the wheel widths and backspacing for the car. Please keep in mind that I will have a full coil over 4-link rear suspension, so eliminating the leaf springs gave me a bit more room to work with. I have the fold down rear seat option in the car that I did not want to lose or rework, so I am not mini-tubing the car.

Front 18x8, 5 inch backspacing with Nitto NT05 245-40/18
Rear 18x10, 5 1/2 inch backspacing with Nitto NT05 285-35/18

I was told by TCP that a 305 was possible at the rear, but now that the rear tires are mounted an inflated, there is not a lot of extra room to work with. If I can position the wheel where a 295 will fit, I will upsize on the 2nd set of tires.

Here are a few pics:





The car is about at ride height with the front cross member only about 4.5 inches off the ground. This next week, I plan to roll the rear fenders. I will position the tires and wheels for best clearance, then measure the hub to hub distance between the rear wheels. I will provide the measurement to TCP so that they can custom fab my rear axle for perfect fit. I expect it will take about 4 to 6 weeks to get the rear G-link suspension, Fab9 axle housing fully loaded, and 12.2" rear Wilwood brakes with integral parking brake. My goal is to get the car to a roller status by November.
 
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