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Discussion Starter #141
KRC Power Steering Pump Install for Coyote

Last night I installed the KRC PS pump with integrated tank on my Coyote. The KRC kit is a quality item with everything you need to install it except, instructions! I contact KRC last year when I received the pump kit, nope no instructions available. You would think KRC could put together a parts list and a simple install guide, but not at this time and, given how long this kit has been marketed, likely never. Fortunately Factor Five Racing put together an nice install guide that helps with the install.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/KRC-POWER-STEERING-COYOTE-ROADSTER-COUPE.pdf

The only unknown I ran into during the install was the length of the spacers for the mounting bracket. There are 3 spacers, one of which is a bit longer than the other two. Of course, my first guess was wrong as I found the longer spacer needs to be installed at the top of the bracket. Once I had test fitted the bracket, the rest was per the instructions.



 

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Discussion Starter #142
Follow Up on Fitment of Ford Performance Street Rod Manifolds

Last night I got under the car to take a closer look at the fitment of the DS manifold. We were a bit concerned looking at the way the DS collector was routed. Viewing from underneath the car, it is clear that the FP street rod manifolds are not going to work either. The way FP turned the DS collector outward causes a interference issue with both the frame rail and steering shaft. After reviewing the fitment, I plan to remove the manifolds and return them. It is too bad, the fit on the PS was great.

I had a discussion this afternoon with Jim at Ultimate Headers which sounds promising. Ultimate Headers is the supplier to Revology cars for their Mustang recreations. What is unique to the design of the Ultimate Coyote swap headers for Early Mustangs is that their design stays higher horizontally longer before transitioning downward. I have sent more pictures to Jim and we will continue to work on a plan.

PS photos:





DS photos:



 

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Discussion Starter #143
Coyote Headers - Round 3

I have been working with Jim Browning Jr. at Ultimate Headers on a solution for my build. Ultimate Headers has a lot of experience building stainless headers for the Coyote in vintage Mustangs. They make headers for Revology and to fit the subframes from other manufactures like the Roadster Shop as one example.

We started with pictures of the engine in my TCP subframe as well as a few measurement taken from a set of engineering renderings he sent me. Based upon my input, Jim felt the product he supplies to builders using the Roadster Shop chassis looked the closest. He tacked together a set and sent them out to me for evaluation. This effort will be the first time he has built headers for the TCP front clip with the Coyote, so I am the beta test.

Out of the box, these headers have come the closest to fitting, only a few small issues to be worked out.

1. On the PS, one of the header tube is contacting the boss for the outermost starter motor bolt. The contact is minimal, the tube is just touching it, but not enough to deflect the fit at the mounting flange. I will note that we did not install a gasket for the header, which would help in this case.
2. On the DS, one of the header tubes is contacting a machined boss on the engine block next to the bellhousing. Like the PS issue, just touching the boss, and again, no gasket installed.
3. I mocked up the steering shaft as best I could using wood dowels in place of the steel shaft. I think I have the routing as it should be, however I do not have my steering column yet and cannot confirm with all the piece installed. I am hoping that a few of the other Coyote builders can post some pictures I can reference.

I have suggested to Jim, that possibly lengthening the headers 1.5", horizontally, such that the portion of the header that is turned down would be closer to the floor/firewall should solve the clearance issues on both sides and possibly improve the steering shaft routing. I will talk with him soon to see what he thinks.

All things considered, I am stoked at the near fit. This is why we did a test fit, one modification cycle should do it!

DS Pictures










PS Pictures








Getting there!
 

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You posted lots of information for me to consider, good for up to 1000 HP, wow! My Coyote will stay mostly stock, so 500 HP at the crank is about as much as I am going to try to put to the pavement.

Yes the 6R80 is taller, however in terms of the height of the tail shaft, should be the same as a manual transmission. I am assuming here that the centerline of the crank and the tail shaft are parallel. Given that, it is my hope that when Total Control Products engineered their front subframe and motor mounts, that they tried to keep the engine as low as possible. My hood will clear the engine with ease, so that is a good sign. The only issue with the TCP setup has been the need to notch the backside of the cradle cross member to clear the front edge of the oil pan. Again, this suggests that TCP was trying to keep the engine low in the subframe.

I chose to go with a 3.50 rear end ratio, same as what Ford includes in their performance pack for the 6R80 AT. Since my build will likely to be somewhat lighter than a current Mustang, it should scoot out of the hole pretty good. This car is being build for HP street use, some Auto-X, and maybe a few track days. No drag racing planned, but it would be nice just to get a number at some point. I am expecting a 12 second quarter time at the least.

I can't wait to see it all work too! Lots to do before first start let alone first test drive.
You probably saw this but just in case, it looks like Revology is squeezing one in. TALL center console
 

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Discussion Starter #146
I was aware that Revology was installing the 6R80 in some of their cars, part of the reason I was willing to put it in mine. Thanks for the video link, I had not seen the video before. I have been following Revology for a while now, amazing products but sky high prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
I have finally started to finish off some of the cooling system. I had a local guy weld up the holes for the lower radiator mount so that I could move the radiator forward. The radiator is now in it final position allowing me to work on the remote oil filter and oil cooler hoses. I have a few tweeks to do before calling it done as the oil cooler return hose is a bit long. I do not want the hose to kink, so shortening it 1/4" should take care of it. The return hose has to snake around the alternator which does not help, but should work fine when the length is sorted out.

The radiator support is mounted with rivnut and nuts welded onto the subframe making it fully removable. A necessity when pulling and reinstalling the Coyote in the car. I installed the Vintage Air condenser to verify that everything aligns. This was done before finalizing the bolt holes for the lower radiator support.

Here are a few pictures of the progress.






 

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Discussion Starter #148
Denny's Driveshaft

With the use of the 6R80 AT, a custom driveshaft was needed for my build. The 6R80 transmission does not incorporate a slip yoke, just an output flange. I worked with Denny's Driveshaft to make up a custom 3.5 inch aluminum driveshaft that incorporates the mating flange for the 6R80, U-joint with slip function, and the U-joint for the 1350 yoke on the Strange 9" third member. The driveshaft fit perfectly once we compressed the slip joint a bit. Another piece of the puzzle found and installed, a great relief that all my measurements were correct. My thanks to Denny and the worksheets they provide online as they help you get the correct measurements.

Pictures:





 

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Discussion Starter #150
Super-sharp looking piece of business there Alan! Car is looking great!
Thanks Sven. It is great to see the pieces come together. However, soon I have to tear it all apart and start the body preparation for paint. It is going to feel like I am starting over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Finished Front Suspension Test Fit

I have been worked a little each day for the last 5 putting together the last of the TCP G-Machine front suspension with Wilwood 13" 4-piston front brakes. I completed the fit checks for the steering rack tie rod ends, splined anti-sway bar, single adjustable coil-over shocks, 12.88" Wilwood rotors with hats, and last the Wilwood 4-piston calipers with pads. Lots of little parts and torque specs involved in assembling the rotor assemblies, just takes time. When installing the coil-over shocks, it took a bit of leverage to get the lower shock mount to clear the lower A-arm. Once you have done it, no big deal but a bit of a head scratcher at first. Everything fit beautifully, very pleased with the fit and finish.

The suspension A-arms and spindles are part of what TCP calls their G-machine level suspension. This is the 3rd level up of 4 in terms of performance and cost regarding the components used. More than enough for a high performance street machine that will see a little bit of Auto-X and track time.

With the brakes on, time to measure for SS flex brake lines.

DS pics:






PS pics:




 

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Discussion Starter #152
Rolling Chassis

I bolted on the front wheels this morning to achieve rolling chassis status for the first time in about 2 years. The clearance from the front wheels to calipers is close, but clears by about 3/16". All is good, going to move back to the rear suspension and install the anti-sway bar. Once that is done, the fit checks for the suspension, both front and rear will be done.

Still waiting on the 2nd set of test fit headers for the car. They have a new configuration which should clear up my clearance issues with the engine. The design has been captured and the first set of the new configuration was sent out to another shop. Once they have confirmation of the design, they will tack together a set for me to try. This process is taking time, but in the end I will have a better fitting product.



 

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Discussion Starter #154
AC and Heater Plumbing Diagram for Coyote and Vintage Air

I have been working on planning out the plumbing for the Vintage Air AC and heater core plumbing. Here is the diagram I have put together so far. It is complete with the exception of the bypass valve for the heater core. I need to do a bit more research on the correct type of valve.

If the diagram is incorrect or needs something added, please comment.

 

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I have been working on planning out the plumbing for the Vintage Air AC and heater core plumbing. Here is the diagram I have put together so far. It is complete with the exception of the bypass valve for the heater core. I need to do a bit more research on the correct type of valve.

If the diagram is incorrect or needs something added, please comment.

Hope it is correct, I just saved it for my own reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Updated AC Plumbing with Heater Bypass Valve

I have been working on the details of the heater bypass valve for the Coyote. The configuration documented is the same as I used on my Factory Five Cobra built 6 years ago. In addition to the Motorcraft YG-350 heater bypass valve, I have added the Vintage Air 11542-VUS Vacuum Solenoid as well. On the Factory Five, the heater switch had an output that was hot when any of the switch positions for low, med, and high fan were selected. This made it easy to control the vacuum solenoid. I will need to find a switched voltage from the vintage air evaporator controls to do the same thing. I will figure this out down the road. This figure is mostly to document what I plan on doing as I found my Cobra build documentation was lacking in this department.

 

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Discussion Starter #157
A Bit More Progress

I have been doing some more work on the cooling system plumbing.

I finished the mod to the PS inner fender apron to gain some room so that the lower radiator hose would fit.



I have been working on a template for the firewall patch. Getting closer, but need to work on the details. I want to push back the connections to the heater lines, but having a bit of trouble where they pass through the patch.



With the evaporator in place, I have been evaluating how to route the AC lines through the bulkhead into the PS fender well. I think I have the placement of the bulkhead connector where I want it.




I added the Vintage Air drier and passenger side hardline kit. On the Coyote, the OEM placement for the AC compressor is on the PS of the engine, the PS line kit will work fine once I tweak the end of the -6 line as the bend is too sharp to clear the edge of the radiator.

 

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Discussion Starter #158
Front Brake Flex Line Routing

I bought two Wilwood brake flexline kits 220-9195 for the front and 220-7056 for the rear. The kit for the front includes brackets for the subframe, the rear kit does not and I will make my own. It is amazing how much some vendors want to charge for a piece of steel with a hole in it.

With the coil over suspension, the front brake lines do not route the same was as was done for stock. I found I had to change to a 90 degree fitting, supplied as part of the 220-7056 kit, at the caliper and then I could route the line without interference with the wheel/tire or the upper A-arm. A lot of trial and error before I found a routing that worked. The hardline will exit through the inner fender apron, route downward and then do a 180 upto the flexline.
The 45 degree fitting supplied with the 220-9195 kit will work well on the rear brake line routing. I am not going to route the lines across the axle, but rather above the 4-link cradle. A little different, but will keep the lines out of harms way.

DS



PS

 

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Discussion Starter #159
Latest Story on Headers

Two weeks ago, I received a new header configuration 471071 from Ultimate Headers to evaluate. Well, this new configuration fit better, but a new issue was found. The #1 and #5 pipes go up and over the top next to the heads, so close in fact the were in contact with the valve cover bolt bosses. The new set will go back next week for modification, and when returned they can be installed for good. This new configuration was primarily designed for the Roadster Shop chassis for the first Gen Mustang, however it will also work with the Total Control Products front clip. This configuration fits very snug to the block with plenty of clearance to the frame rails and floor portions of the firewall. I will post a complete set of pictures once the headers are modified and the configuration finalized.

New header configuration:









While the headers were in the car, I wanted to work out a solution for the steering shaft. With these headers, a intermediate steering support bearing is required for connecting to my TCP power steering rack. In addition to the steering shaft kit from TCP, I am adding a Borgeson support bearing and one additional Unisteer U-joint. I mounted the steering support bearing to a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle and moved it around till I found a position that kept the bearing pretty square to the mounting block. I will do some more testing tomorrow to make sure there is no binding. The use of 3/4" dowel made mocking up the configuration easier. Once I am convinced all is good, I will cut the 3/4" double D shaft material to match the dowels. Here are a couple of pictures of the mockup.


 

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Discussion Starter #160
Steering Linkage

The Ultimate Headers 471071 configuration has been returned for the final modification. The pipes for the #1 and #5 cylinders will be moved out to provide clearance to the heads.

While the engine is out of the car, I have mocked up the steering shaft in its final position. I made a bracket from 2" x 1/8" angle to support the Borgeson bearing and one additional Unisteer U-joint. Turns out I had one incorrect U-joint from TCP. The kit included two splined x 3/4" double D U-joints. One should have been a 16mm x 3/4" double D. TCP exchanged the incorrect U-joint for me. I still have to drill and install the nutserts for mounting the bracket, but other than that and painting the bracket, I have a solution to route the steering shaft around the headers.




Next project is to add a notch to the DS frame rail in front of the engine cradle cross member to provide clearance for removing the alternator with the engine installed. The lower mount for the Ford Alternator requires the alternator to swing out a little over a 1/2 inch. The frame notch will accommodate the clearance needed. This mod is being done to improve maintainability in the future. I am installing a Hydratech Hydroboost system that fits above the DS head, so no clearance to lift the engine with the brake MC in place. It would be a PITA to have to disconnect the HB and MC and other plumbing in order to lift he engine just to replace a failed alternator.
 
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