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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Last night I worked on the firewall some more on the driver side. The toe pan I got was not "correct" for the car as they were universal for 64-70, but I knew that going in. What I DIDNT know is that I would need to reshape the area under the steering column hole and other places. It took all night, but I am happyish with the results. I still have to finish welding the area along the tunnel and under the accelerator pedal, but I got far enough. I will also probably fill the holes made by removing the spot welds and make new ones. The ones I have now are bigger than I like for plug welding, and I plan to add a few more.
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
As you can tell from the previous pictures, I removed the reinforcement plate that fits around the brake booster/master cylinder and the steering column. This was initially to get rid of the rust between the panels. However, upon removal I found the plate to be severely rusted on the inside as well, so I am making a new one. I also didn't like the deflection around the mounting holes for both the steering and brakes, so I am making it from a thicker material. I do have a question. The tang circled below... does it have a purpose?
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Tonight I worked on my beefed up reinforcement plate for the firewall. I made a slit in the back to allow me to bend it (it’s HSLA 050XLF steel at 0.145”), then welded the cut back up after the proper bend had been achieved. I also started working on putting the holes in it for the brake system and steering column. I test fit it before calling it a night. Is it overkill? Sure, but that section of firewall WITH the old reinforcement plate had flexed and the holes were out of shape. Since rust caused me to make a new one anyway, I figured a bit more steel would help fix those problems.

I’m quickly running out of stuff to do given it is winter here and I can’t sand blast or put down epoxy primer. Have to have access to both of those things before I can start welding parts together. I can still strip the doors and get them ready for new skins. Rear seat support has some repair work left on it. Many small parts to sand blast in the cabinet, but I’m not able to prime them… unless… I can prime them at work! Oh perfect! But hey, don’t tell anyone!
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Tonight was slow and relatively uneventful. I worked on the firewall while Josh worked on the doors. We got 4 doors with the 2 cars. We immediately discarded one as it was too far gone. Josh cut the door skin off one of the passenger doors - one we think may have been a 1969 door. We found the door had spot welds around the perimeter and inside the top flange. I didn’t think they were welded on. Anyway, the door has some rust at the bottom that will need to be repaired, but the rest just needs cleaned up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Finished repairing the rear seat support today. It’s not going to look new, but it will do the job and largely won’t be seen. II’d love to find a 2” lightening die to put some rigidity back in the structure to prevent vibration/harmonics/whatever. Also did another assessment of the door we flayed. just needs the bottom repaired and the inside sand blasted,,, something we can’t do until better weather.
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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Been working on the firewall. Spending a lot of time on it because a) it needed help, and b) I am making some subtle modifications that should help with strength.

The metal was thin where the export brace bolts up and the holes were wallerd out, so I cut that out and welded in new metal. When I did, I dropped it down around 5/32” because I am planning to integrate an export brace reinforcement into that area. I am not fond of just welding it to the outside of the cowl, so I am integrating it into the firewall. It will get plug welded on, and when it’s done, won’t be easy to see. I finished on the flat piece that goes on top of the firewall where the export brace bolts on. Turned out very nice, and flush to the top flange where it will be welded. I will have a vertical piece on the inside of the firewall that will plug weld also and weld to the top piece. It increase the strength of that area nicely.

I also took off this little bracket from the driver side of the firewall next to the export brace flange. I have no idea it’s function. I know someone smarter than me can tell me. If it is of no use (as it isn’t on my 1970) I may leave it off.

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
So we worked on getting the roof to fit today. We have the body sides squared and wheel wells in place. All good, but the roof just doesn’t want to fit. It feels out of square I can line up the front corners and the passenger rear. The driver rear feels “short.” The quarter panel fits great. The roof doesn’t overlap the quarter panel by much towards the rear… certainly not enough to plug weld it. Everything else seems good. We will keep working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Last night I worked on correcting the driver side rear roof crossmember stub. The piece that the crossmember welds to. It was too wide by 0.5" and it was too far back by about 1/8". Fixing that solved the problem seen here...



I also worked on trimming up the front passenger side from the corner that still sticks out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Here are some pictures of what I am doing in the export brace area. First one shows you the replacement flange from the top. I grabbed some steel corners (came in on some flat stock, used to prevent damage in shipping) from work that were going to the scrap bin, and what do you know, perfect width. The rest was trace and cut. Second picture shows the 5/32” inset from the top of the flange where the reinforcement plate will go. It will have a companion plate running downward inside the firewall to give it additional rigidity.
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
We worked on the roof again tonight. I think we have solved the puzzle. We started by lining up the back of the roof, clamping it in place, and then working in the front. We got the driver front clamped down, but the passenger front would not go. I think that the crossmember stub on the front needs to move back about 3/8”. That would allow the crossmember to move back on the Passenger side, and then the roof would fall into place. Trick is making sure all the measurements are in. Still not sure on how. Here’s how we left it, although it doesn’t look as good as it really is due to removing a couple clamps to use elsewhere.

Driver front is good. It lines up, i just took the clamp off and it lifted a bit.
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Driver rear fits better than this, but like I said, I removed a clamp and it moved.
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Passenger rear is the best fit
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I think you'll need to figure out how to hold it in place such that you can test fit both windows simultaneously.

Here's mine all temporarily held together before welding. I did end up installing the front glass too, but don't have a picture of that.
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Not much work on this for a couple reasons. First, life. Second, I have stuff that needs sand blasted and primed to go much further. Good news! Today was a great day to do some sand blasting! I got the inside of the firewall blasted, and about a third of the outside until I ran out of light. Should be warm enough tomorrow to finish up. I am hoping I can get the firewall over to work this weekend where I can put primer on it.
 
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