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1970 Tach Bypass – Flawed Schematic?

5401 Views 13 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  70Machboy
How many of you have seen this site below (also see my pictures) that proposes a bypass circuit for the 1970 Mustang tachometer?
http://1970mgr.org/_TachBypass.htm


Are there many auto electricians on this forum? Take a look at his bypass and tell me if it makes any sense to you. From my perspective, something is seriously flawed with this tach bypass circuit. Just use some common sense here: If you install that add-on trailer connecter pair that has a direct shunt between the power source and the outgoing (after the tach) line to the coil, you have effectively bypassed the tach itself. Why would any current then need to travel thru the tach with this shunt in place, not to mention it being curtailed at the very least? … which would alter your normal tach indication for sure!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>
Remember that the 1970 tach is a Faria (FoMoCo) “series” type tachometer that is wired in series to the ignition coil. This bypass wire turns it into a parallel circuit which means it’s not all going to flow thru the tachometer anymore. For a bypass to be truly useful, this bypass shunt line would have to incorporate a switch so that it could remain off during normal operations and only be turned on (connected) if the tach had failed and the ignition cut off. I believe once this line is connected (switch on), the tach will no longer read correctly, probably abnormally low (due to a lack of normal current flow).<o:p></o:p>
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His statement: “<I>Connector 2 is wired to allow the tach to function and to receive power from a separate ignition source” </I>doesn’t make any sense to me because the factory tach can not normally operate in a parallel configuration.<o:p></o:p>
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Perhaps I’m not seeing something here, but before I wire up my car’s tach, I wanted to have some other opinions on this. Any input would be appreciated.<o:p></o:p>

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Never tried it, but basically it wires the tach in parallel instead of series. Strange.

Here's the link-

Bypassing a Bad Tachometer - 1969 / 1970 Mustang

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IMHO, the schematic shown is correct. Since the tach is a current-sensing device (wired in series), vs. voltage-sensing (wired in parallel), it is no different than the ammeter circuit in your car, which is ALSO a parallel-connected CIRCUIT, but with a SERIES-connected device.

It's voltage that provides the "pressure" so the parallel circuits will each receive proper voltage, and it's the resistance of the load in the line that determines how much current is used, so if the circuits are parallel and independent of each other, there should be no difference.
Never tried it, but basically it wires the tach in parallel instead of series. Strange.

Here's the link-

Bypassing a Bad Tachometer - 1969 / 1970 Mustang

No, the tach is still wired in series, but the circuit it's located in is parallel to another circuit.
Let me see if I understand you correctly. I have 3 examples of a motor connected in series (like the factory tach is). The second one has a "bypass" in its power feed (like his diagram shows). Are you telling me that the motor will not spin slower with the bypass installed? What about in my last depiction?

Only in the 1st case does all the current go thru the motor. In the next two cases there is an easier alternate path for current flow and thus the motor's rpms (or tach reading) would be deminished giving way partially to this easier pathway.

Am I just not seeing something here? I'm not trying to be obstinate - just trying to learn here.

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Let me see if I understand you correctly. I have 2 examples of a motor connected in series (like the factory tach is). The second one has a "bypass" in its power feed (like his diagram shows). Are you telling me that the motor will not spin slower with the bypass installed?
Actually, in your example, the only limiting factor is whether the bypass wire is heavy enough to not burn out due to a direct short. When you think of parallel circuits, you need to think of them as being INDEPENDENTLY connected to the original power source, which they really are, they just share some wire, which could be thought of as really LONG terminals.

The only reason the motor would run slower is due to the draw on the power source which could be induced by a second parallel circuit with another motor.
I think I added a bit since your response. .....but anyways, OK I see what you're saying, but isn't the reason the tach was put into a series relationship with the ignition coil was to cause ALL of the current to flow thru it to generate the proper signal for an accurate rpm indication? If even part of that flow is diverted so that ANY amount thru the tach is reduced, won't that effect the rpm indication? Even in my last example above (more representing the tach bypass circuit), won't the motor's rpms reduce a bit because of the flow reduction due to the easier path? Both circuit paths share the same load, that being the ignition coil. So when both have separate paths, won't the easier path take more of the flow (which is a path that didn't even exist in the factory configuration)?
G
What exactly do you want to do?
I think I added a bit since your response. .....but anyways, OK I see what you're saying, but isn't the reason the tach was put into a series relationship with the ignition coil was to cause ALL of the current to flow thru it to generate the proper signal for an accurate rpm indication? If even part of that flow is diverted so that ANY amount thru the tach is reduced, won't that effect the rpm indication? Even in my last example above (more representing the tach bypass circuit), won't the motor's rpms reduce a bit because of the flow reduction due to the easier path?.
You're making an assumption that there is only so much current available, but the amount of current is solely dependent on the voltage provided and the resistance of the load. The only decrease in motor speed, or tach signal for that matter, that can occur is if the TOTAL load on the power source, from all circuits, exceeds the amount of power available OR the wiring or loads in THAT circuit are insufficient to carry the load.
Neither of these should exceed the amount of power available. By that rule, the tach reading should stay accurate.... I guess.

What I'm wanting to do is provide a safe backup for the ignition system should my factory tach fail in the future, but I do not want to compromise the accracy of my tach indication to accomplish this. This tach bypass circuit just did not make any sense to me, but perhaps I'm just not understanding current flow vs pressure (volts) well enough.

Thanks for your inputs, bartl. If anyone else has a second opinion, please chime in.
Neither of these should exceed the amount of power available. By that rule, the tach reading should stay accurate.... I guess.

What I'm wanting to do is provide a safe backup for the ignition system should my factory tach fail in the future, but I do not want to compromise the accracy of my tach indication to accomplish this. This tach bypass circuit just did not make any sense to me, but perhaps I'm just not understanding current flow vs pressure (volts) well enough.

Thanks for your inputs, bartl. If anyone else has a second opinion, please chime in.
The simplest "emergency backup" would be a 3 foot piece of primary wire with an alligator clip on each end to use as a jumper between the battery+ and coil+.
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G
The simplest "emergency backup" would be a 3 foot piece of primary wire with an alligator clip on each end to use as a jumper between the battery+ and coil+.
Wow, ouch, touche bartl, but correct!
G
Neither of these should exceed the amount of power available. By that rule, the tach reading should stay accurate.
lets just say that your tach will stay accurate with the bypass.


What I'm wanting to do is provide a safe backup for the ignition system should my factory tach fail in the future, but I do not want to compromise the accracy of my tach indication to accomplish this.
it won't
Good enough for me. ...and your're right - nothing beats having a long jumper wire in ones carry-kit.

Again, thanks for the education.:content:
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