Never tried it, but basically it wires the tach in parallel instead of series. Strange.
Here's the link-
Bypassing a Bad Tachometer - 1969 / 1970 Mustang
Here's the link-
Bypassing a Bad Tachometer - 1969 / 1970 Mustang

No, the tach is still wired in series, but the circuit it's located in is parallel to another circuit.Never tried it, but basically it wires the tach in parallel instead of series. Strange.
Here's the link-
Bypassing a Bad Tachometer - 1969 / 1970 Mustang
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Actually, in your example, the only limiting factor is whether the bypass wire is heavy enough to not burn out due to a direct short. When you think of parallel circuits, you need to think of them as being INDEPENDENTLY connected to the original power source, which they really are, they just share some wire, which could be thought of as really LONG terminals.Let me see if I understand you correctly. I have 2 examples of a motor connected in series (like the factory tach is). The second one has a "bypass" in its power feed (like his diagram shows). Are you telling me that the motor will not spin slower with the bypass installed?
You're making an assumption that there is only so much current available, but the amount of current is solely dependent on the voltage provided and the resistance of the load. The only decrease in motor speed, or tach signal for that matter, that can occur is if the TOTAL load on the power source, from all circuits, exceeds the amount of power available OR the wiring or loads in THAT circuit are insufficient to carry the load.I think I added a bit since your response. .....but anyways, OK I see what you're saying, but isn't the reason the tach was put into a series relationship with the ignition coil was to cause ALL of the current to flow thru it to generate the proper signal for an accurate rpm indication? If even part of that flow is diverted so that ANY amount thru the tach is reduced, won't that effect the rpm indication? Even in my last example above (more representing the tach bypass circuit), won't the motor's rpms reduce a bit because of the flow reduction due to the easier path?.
The simplest "emergency backup" would be a 3 foot piece of primary wire with an alligator clip on each end to use as a jumper between the battery+ and coil+.Neither of these should exceed the amount of power available. By that rule, the tach reading should stay accurate.... I guess.
What I'm wanting to do is provide a safe backup for the ignition system should my factory tach fail in the future, but I do not want to compromise the accracy of my tach indication to accomplish this. This tach bypass circuit just did not make any sense to me, but perhaps I'm just not understanding current flow vs pressure (volts) well enough.
Thanks for your inputs, bartl. If anyone else has a second opinion, please chime in.
Wow, ouch, touche bartl, but correct!The simplest "emergency backup" would be a 3 foot piece of primary wire with an alligator clip on each end to use as a jumper between the battery+ and coil+.
lets just say that your tach will stay accurate with the bypass.Neither of these should exceed the amount of power available. By that rule, the tach reading should stay accurate.
it won'tWhat I'm wanting to do is provide a safe backup for the ignition system should my factory tach fail in the future, but I do not want to compromise the accracy of my tach indication to accomplish this.