Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,629 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody ever used one of these kits?


My car is apart for painting, the underside was rotisserie restored and painted, the engine and trans are going back in this weekend. I want to get it running such that I can move it around while doing body work etc prior to final assembly... this would make a simple harness easier...

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
I‘ve tried it. Save your money and get a 3G alternator. That conversion regulator, as far as I can tell, forces the 1G to maintain max output even at idle. Needless to say my 1G did not last very long. You can get a 130 amp 3G from the wrecking yard for about $50. That’s what I did and couldn’t be happier.
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
20,656 Posts
The stock wiring isn't that complicated, if you ask me. Plus all the manuals have diagrams to make sure you have it right. I favor swapping to a later model style alternator also, but I'd leave it dead stock rather than use some half fast rig like that.
IMHO, too much ado is made over "1 wire" setups. If it's so big a deal why aren't people all enthused over 1 wire ignitions, 1 wire headlights, etc and whatever. Never minding that it's been shown a time or two that 1 wire setups are less than optimal for a couple of reasons.
 
  • Like
Reactions: j persons

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
I‘ve tried it. Save your money and get a 3G alternator. That conversion regulator, as far as I can tell, forces the 1G to maintain max output even at idle. Needless to say my 1G did not last very long. You can get a 130 amp 3G from the wrecking yard for about $50. That’s what I did and couldn’t be happier.
In regards to getting a 3G alternator from a junk yard...
2 questions:
1) are the cases the same size as the 60's model alternators, so that it's a direct swap, sizewise?
2) when did they switch to serpentine belts -- need a dual pulley for a 3G, right?
Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I had that type of voltage regulator conversion kit on a 1G 65amp alternator in my 1963.5 Falcon Sprint. Worked fine and I figure it was in use since the previous owner of the car put it in back in 2008. Recently I purchased a Tuff Stuff 100amp 1 wire powder coated alternator, that has the regulator built in. Works great and I see 14v from idle to wot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,936 Posts
Do you need more than 65 amps?

It seems like a bunch of people go way overkill on alternators.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
Do you need more than 65 amps?

It seems like a bunch of people go way overkill on alternators.
Dunno, and would like to get the facts from a credible source.

I have heard the theory explained why 35amps is enough for most cars, even with AC -- "scientifically proven" and painstakingly spelled out with equations and measurements.
BUT I have had a car with a 65amp alternator that needed more amps to support AC, lights and simple radio on at the same time.

Why would a car company bother with making 95,135, 200Amp alternators if they were not needed? After all, all companies minimize their expenditures....unless they are trying to oversell an unnecessary product (which is equally possible -- e.g., 700hp engines in Mom's car).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,936 Posts
When fuel injection and electronic engine control came along, more powerful heat and air, more lights, higher output sound systems all added load to the electrical system.

My 65 289 with AC and a retro radio does just fine on a 65A alternator.

IMO the better project is to reduce the amount of amps going through the 50 year old factory wiring by using relays and led lighting where possible. Thats one of my ongoing projects.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
When fuel injection and electronic engine control came along, more powerful heat and air, more lights, higher output sound systems all added load to the electrical system.

My 65 289 with AC and a retro radio does just fine on a 65A alternator.

IMO the better project is to reduce the amount of amps going through the 50 year old factory wiring by using relays and led lighting where possible. Thats one of my ongoing projects.
Does MSD dizzy and coil add extra burden on the alternator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
478 Posts
I just did a bunch of research the last few days on which 3G to buy for my 67 390. I'm going with a 130A Motorcraft since I'll have EFI, electric fans and pump, etc. I went to the pick and pull and spent $5 for a harness which I'll splice into my AAW harness. I didn't find any good alternators there which is probably good, they were all corroded like crazy with white specs all over everything aluminum at that yard, must be something in the air there...

Anyways, here's some good info at this page:
How to Identify Your Ford 3G, 4G & 6G Series Alternator

You'll want to get the Lester case 7765, 7770 or 7771, which the main application is the 1994-2000 3.8L Mustang. Should be a direct physical swap other than the harness stuff. There are various ones available on Rock Auto, just search by the application I mentioned. I decided to go with the Motorcraft new alternator F4PZ10346BRM2. I ordered it from summit here LINK. It's a two week order from the manufacturer but decided that was better than wrecking yard, reman, or new from various vendors. I just ordered it yesterday, so can't give you a review on it yet. Those lester numbers don't have a thread in the top hole, so you either use a nut on the backside or use a thread insert. There's a Lester number 7778 that comes with an 8mm thread but it's only 105A output, which might be a good option if you don't need 130A.

Cheers
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top