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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1st classic mustang build. 1966 fastback. Not an all original car so I can do whatever with. Son's first car. I have some questions. I definitely want to get rid of the steering set up from factory. Should I go electric? Less than 200.00. Borgeson setup? Mustang II? Second, the front suspension also needs to be changed. Recommendations on which coil over conversion? Company and or style? Offset upper arms? Regular tubular arms? etc. It will be a 333 with a very mild cam until he has driven a couple years then a cam swap later. T5 trans. Front disc conversion. Third, T5 with a clutch cable or go hydraulic?

Thanks in advance,
Jack
 

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Welcome to the club! Many members like Chocostang for the steering. Look him up to rebuild your existing box. A few folks have done EPAS and they seem to like it. For coilovers, I think Shaun at Street or Track has the best setup. That’s what’s on my car and I love it. Good luck and post up some pics.
 
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Jack, your steering should come from ChockoStang, the front suspension from Street or Track and Opentracker, forget the M2 setups, they're crap. And the clutch should be with a Z bar, but with roller bearings and Heim joints. Forget hydraulic clutches, they're crap, and forget cables, they break. LSG
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I am going to do away with the factory style steering. I will probably go with the EPAS off of a Prius. Too cheap not to try. Less than 200.00 out of pocket for column , motor and control module. I have read the Borgeson has too much assist. Just wanted experienced opinions. Have not heard of Street or Track. Looks like good quality stuff!! Thanks for that recommendation !(y)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jack, your steering should come from ChockoStang, the front suspension from Street or Track and Opentracker, forget the M2 setups, they're crap. And the clutch should be with a Z bar, but with roller bearings and Heim joints. Forget hydraulic clutches, they're crap, and forget cables, they break. LSG
Thanks!!.Just what I need. Real advice. Who does the upgraded z bar stuff that you know of? Thanks again.
 

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Yeah, I am going to do away with the factory style steering. I will probably go with the EPAS off of a Prius.
In most cases, the EPAS conversion uses the factory steering components. The EPAS just adds power assist.

You’re asking a lot of things about a lot of things, which is good. The best advice I can offer is to slow down, do your research and build a solid plan. Very few of the things you’re asking about are black & white. Lots of grey area with these decisions, some of which is based on preference, some on blind bias.

My preference/bias says:
  • screw CJ, go to NPD for parts
  • stock style hydraulic power steering isn’t for me
  • rack & pinion steering isn’t strictly necessary
  • 3.73 gears pair perfectly with a World Class T5
  • this thread would be better if you posted pics

Have fun with it!

Forget hydraulic clutches, they're crap, and forget cables, they break. LSG
Yeah! My first cable only lasted 12 years and has otherwise been flawless with great pedal feel. What junk.
 

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Welcome, looks like a very solid project to start with!
You have come to the right place for information, many are very opinionated on their choices, likes & dislikes. Sift through the information given, use it in your research and keep posting pics!
 

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Welcome!

We often see the same situation here. A person new to building an early Mustang has lots of plans for lots of modern mods because that's what they see on car TV shows. So, that's what's best, right? In most cases, no.

If you've done all your research and really truly want to go with things like a coilover suspension with a rack and pinion, cool. Just be aware it's very likely you don't need all that. A factory suspension with a few mods here and there works amazingly well for a street car. Electric assist steering is a good mod. But as mentioned above, you can convert the factory steering to electric assist and that works really well.

I agree most of the Mustang II kits are pretty lackluster. All too often what you end up with is something that doesn't work as well as the factory suspension and steering. Oh, and you get a wider turn radius to boot.

To be clear, this is your car and can do whatever you like. I'm not suggesting it's blasphemous to modify a 66 fastback. I'm saying it's probably not necessary to spend all that money and do all that work.

A few more points:

- Rear disc brakes look great and work better than drums for racing. But they can be a real pain in the neck to install and get working correctly. For a street car you really don't need them. If you really want rear discs, look for threads from Kelly-H. She put rear discs on her Mustang and got them working well.

- Multi-link rear suspensions are badass and, again, great for racing. But oh, good golly is that a lot of money and lot of work. Leaf springs aren't nearly as trick, but you can make work well with the right parts and the right shocks.

- Front coilovers are great if you need the room to drop in a Coyote power plant. For racing, an adjustable coilover setup is great. For a street car, meh. You can get surprisingly good results with a Shelby drop, roller springs perches, good shocks and a beefy sway bar. I did just that on my 1970 Mach 1 and really happy with the results. But if you really want a coilover stetup, look at the kit from Shaun at Street or track. I've heard it works exceptionally well and you don't have to cut out the shock towers.

- Rack and pinion steering is also required for a Coyote swap. Otherwise, I don't see the need. I've driven Mustangs with R&P steering on the street and in autocross events. Nothing wrong with them, but again, meh.

- I got a rollerized Z-bar kit from Open Tracker Racing. It works great. Yeah, hydraulic clutches are nice and smooth, but again, they're a bear to install and when they don't work they're infuriating. I'm just not a fan of cable clutches.

Keep in mind the reason you see all those mods on car TV shows is because all those parts are donated by the vendors and not because they're the best option.

Again, it's your car. Do what you like. And have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, rear disc is not on the table. I think I am going with a upgraded z bar setup. The car was originally a base 200 3spd coupe. Someone did an awesome job of putting a roof on. I have been in the car business for 30+ years and the roof work is incredible. That's why as a Ford fanatic I can modify it with zero guilt. I want to lower the car a couple inches so I want to be able to have all the adjustments avail to get the ride and alignment correct. I don't want it riding like a Corvette. The Prius EPS is about 2k cheaper than the EPAS systems i have seen on the internet. I think it can be grafted into the factory column. Haven't done a ton of research just yet. I do not want to have a different column in the car. I do want it to be a mustang and not some kind of Frankenstein. LOL. Thanks for the input. It all helps!!(y)
 

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Yeah, rear disc is not on the table. I think I am going with a upgraded z bar setup. The car was originally a base 200 3spd coupe. Someone did an awesome job of putting a roof on. I have been in the car business for 30+ years and the roof work is incredible. That's why as a Ford fanatic I can modify it with zero guilt. I want to lower the car a couple inches so I want to be able to have all the adjustments avail to get the ride and alignment correct. I don't want it riding like a Corvette. The Prius EPS is about 2k cheaper than the EPAS systems i have seen on the internet. I think it can be grafted into the factory column. Haven't done a ton of research just yet. I do not want to have a different column in the car. I do want it to be a mustang and not some kind of Frankenstein. LOL. Thanks for the input. It all helps!!(y)
FYI, the Shelby drop lowers the front end a bit and you can get mideye leaf springs to lower the rear.
 

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I want to lower the car a couple inches so I want to be able to have all the adjustments avail to get the ride and alignment correct.
I achieved those goals without coil overs and kept the leaf springs. Not saying you shouldn’t go with coil overs and a fancy rear suspension, just saying you don’t have to.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I achieved those goals without coil overs and kept the leaf springs. Not saying you shouldn’t go with coil overs and a fancy rear suspension, just saying you don’t have to.

View attachment 860937
Thanks for the info.I don't know how fancy I will get on the rear. Not gonna auto cross it or anything. Just want the flexibility on the front though. Raise , lower. soften and stiffen etc.

Pretty car!!!!!!! (y) (y)
 

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Yeah, rear disc is not on the table. I think I am going with a upgraded z bar setup. The car was originally a base 200 3spd coupe. Someone did an awesome job of putting a roof on. I have been in the car business for 30+ years and the roof work is incredible. That's why as a Ford fanatic I can modify it with zero guilt. I want to lower the car a couple inches so I want to be able to have all the adjustments avail to get the ride and alignment correct. I don't want it riding like a Corvette. The Prius EPS is about 2k cheaper than the EPAS systems i have seen on the internet. I think it can be grafted into the factory column. Haven't done a ton of research just yet. I do not want to have a different column in the car. I do want it to be a mustang and not some kind of Frankenstein. LOL. Thanks for the input. It all helps!!(y)
Regarding the column, the factory for '66 was not collapsible therefore it becomes a 'spear' in a front end collision. Considering your son will be driving you might look into a later year for collapsible('68 first year IIRC) or aftermarket .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Regarding the column, the factory for '66 was not collapsible therefore it becomes a 'spear' in a front end collision. Considering your son will be driving you might look into a later year for collapsible('68 first year IIRC) or aftermarket .
Any difference in appearance? Not saying that is paramount but if the later columns are ugly or odd looking I would look into an alternative.
Thanks!!!
 

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Forget hydraulic clutches, they're crap, and forget cables, they break. LSG
Then why do so many OEM's put then in their cars? I had a couple of Datsuns with hydraulic clutches back in the 1980's . Zero issues. I have a hydraulic clutch in the Mustang. While I did have some issue with the original hydraulic setup I used, it was due to the homemade system I came up with years ago as no one was making clutch pedal linkage setups to convert vintage Mustangs back then. The current setup works flawlessly with a hydraulic throwout bearing.
 
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In most cases, the EPAS conversion uses the factory steering components. The EPAS just adds power assist.

You’re asking a lot of things about a lot of things, which is good. The best advice I can offer is to slow down, do your research and build a solid plan. Very few of the things you’re asking about are black & white. Lots of grey area with these decisions, some of which is based on preference, some on blind bias.

My preference/bias says:
  • screw CJ, go to NPD for parts
  • stock style hydraulic power steering isn’t for me
  • rack & pinion steering isn’t strictly necessary
  • 3.73 gears pair perfectly with a World Class T5
  • this thread would be better if you posted pics

Have fun with it!



Yeah! My first cable only lasted 12 years and has otherwise been flawless with great pedal feel. What junk.
ONLY if you buy a Ford Cable. Most aftermarket Cables are Crap. Maximum Motorsports evaluated every cable they could find and only the Ford OEM cables were decent. From my experience, I am STILL using my original 1994 Ford cable. The OEM cable in my Wife's 98 failed at 240K, Since then 3 aftermarket cables failed before I went back to OEM.
 

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Dimples
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ONLY if you buy a Ford Cable. Most aftermarket Cables are Crap. Maximum Motorsports evaluated every cable they could find and only the Ford OEM cables were decent. From my experience, I am STILL using my original 1994 Ford cable. The OEM cable in my Wife's 98 failed at 240K, Since then 3 aftermarket cables failed before I went back to OEM.
Makes sense. I’ve only ever used the Ford Racing adjustable cable. It’s what came with my Mustang Steve conversion.
 

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Then why do so many OEM's put then in their cars? I had a couple of Datsuns with hydraulic clutches back in the 1980's . Zero issues. I have a hydraulic clutch in the Mustang. While I did have some issue with the original hydraulic setup I used, it was due to the homemade system I came up with years ago as no one was making clutch pedal linkage setups to convert vintage Mustangs back then. The current setup works flawlessly with a hydraulic throwout bearing.
I think you answered your own question. Hydraulic isn’t bad as a concept, but various kits can provide various results. Same with any mod though. I don’t think every cable conversion hung the moon, but the Mustang Steve conversion is fantastic.
 
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