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Discussion Starter #1
Little back story. I pulled my tired 302 out of my 69 Coupe and put in a BluePrint 3024 motor (302 not dressed).

I have taken my time assembling the motor. New water pump, intake, balancer, flex plate, and fuel pump. So the only used component is the carb.

Today I went to do the initial start up and it just cranked. It sounded like it wanted to turn over but it never did. I could smell gas pretty strong so I looked under the car and had a decent sized puddle coming out from the drivers side header (only headers hooked up not full exhaust).

Any ideas what could be causing my issues? Thanks all!
 

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Could be:
Carburetor flooding
Carburetor choke
Distributor timing
Or no spark

If you have a timing light, you should be able to connect it up and verify spark while cranking.
 

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Probably a combination of things. Timing off, Float stuck, and if that’s the case check the oil to make sure it’s not diluted with gas. Get the number one cylinder back at TDC, use the balancer to verify it’s at zero and see where the rotor is pointed in relation to the number one plug wire on the cap. Most of the time people don’t have it advanced enough......or they get the thing 180 out. Just happens, I’ve been in the club before.
 

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My first new engine I had the valves to tight. No compression. Check compression and make sure distributor is on #1 plug. Check firing order
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all for the feedback. With the dizzy, when I dropped it in I made sure that as it rotated when seating it's final resting place was pointing directly at plug #1. Correct me if I am wrong but to advance the timing I need to turn my dizzy clockwise. I may not have enough timing in it then. As I set it to true 0* TDC. I am also going to check my plug wires. The new 302 has a different firing order that my old one so some of my wires are a little longer than they need to be. Is it an issue if they touch the shock towers? I have them all separated from each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Probably a combination of things. Timing off, Float stuck, and if that’s the case check the oil to make sure it’s not diluted with gas. Get the number one cylinder back at TDC, use the balancer to verify it’s at zero and see where the rotor is pointed in relation to the number one plug wire on the cap. Most of the time people don’t have it advanced enough......or they get the thing 180 out. Just happens, I’ve been in the club before.
Thank you. I think you are going to be right on the money.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I think I have figured it out... I am pretty sure that I put the plug wires on backwards. I think I went clockwise around the Cap in the correct firing order instead of counter clockwise. I think fixing this will solve my issues, at least I hope. Being that I only attempted to start it for a minute (literally 60 seconds) total before calling it a night, my oil should be fine right? Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Well I think I have figured it out... I am pretty sure that I put the plug wires on backwards. I think I went clockwise around the Cap in the correct firing order instead of counter clockwise. I think fixing this will solve my issues, at least I hope. Being that I only attempted to start it for a minute (literally 60 seconds) total before calling it a night, my oil should be fine right? Thanks again for all the help!
I would at least pull the dipstick and do the ole smell test.

Allen
 

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I don’t think so. I verified with the finger over #1 hole, plus looking at the valves, and with a piston stop. If I messed that up I need to rethink this whole wrenching thing haha
I was ****y like that once too...... smarter people than us have done more "stupid" things.
I caught a former F1 guy desperately trying to drill a hole..... not realizing the drill was
turning backwards.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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I’ve never understood why people say to rotate the engine to TDC, stab the distributor, and then try to arbitrarily guess the initial advance setting front there. Start at 10°-15° BTDC (depending on the engine) and stab the distributor there pointing exactly at #1 and you have your base timing pretty much set. Always verify with your light, but it’s good enough for start up 99.9% of the time.
 

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If you cranked it 60 seconds and you have fuel running out of the header, you have a problem other than the plug wires. That should not happen.
 

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A stuck float will push fuel out of the carb itself. With raw fuel coming out the header, that's a different issue. No spark, timing etc...

Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well she is running!! I started back at 0 and verified TDC, got on the compression stroke, and set my balancer to 12* BTDC. Pulled and cleaned all plugs, verified firing order and found 2 crossed up plug wires. Pounded on the bowls a bit to loosen the floats, and noticed my fuel filter became dislodged in the housing so I replaced that. Low and behold she fired up!

When I started it popped a ton out of the headers. I assume it’s the left over raw fuel from flooding. It took awhile to get it to run consistently. Finally got a timing light and a vac gauge on it and settled in at 12-13* at idle with steady vac around 22.

I’m going to hook up my full exhaust and have my old timer neighbor help me dial in total timing and double check all my work for piece of mind.

Thanks for all the help guys, keep it coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So another update.

We found that about 14* at idle was optimum for the car. Gave us about 20 on the vac gauge and had a healthy idle. Only issue is that we had a couple backfires thru the carb intermittently. First one happened about 30 seconds into running and the second one was about 2.5 minutes into running. Neither caused the car to die, just sputter and keep on going. What could this be from? I think my main culprit earlier was a stuck float. Could that be causing issues again???

Also just another question for my piece of mind. I am obsessed with timing component and OCD over wondering if I did it right. I put in a piston stop, rotated CW until it hit and marked that on my balancer. Then I went around CCW until it hit again and marked that too. Then I measured the distance, cut it in half, and marked that as true TDC. I had to use timing tape on my balancer as it was for a newer 5.0 not my block. So I put the 0* mark right on that middle mark indicating true TDC. Is that correct? It makes sense to me, which makes me think it may be wrong haha! Thank you all again!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also I should add.. I moved to Michigan from Colorado and there I changed the jets a couple sizes to work with the thinner air. I haven't re-jetted since being back at sea level. Could this be causing my issues???

I am thinking a carb rebuild and jetting back to stock will do me alot of good.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update:

I went in and re-routed and shortened some of my plug wires today. Focusing on getting all the wires separated especially 5/6 and getting them all off my shock towers. I found that 3 and 4 were flipped and on the wrong plugs. I switched out a couple plugs that were fouled up from my initial start up failure. After this she fired right up and idled beautifully!!! No backfires!! I double checked the timing and set it at about 14-15*. This was giving me 20ish on my vac gauge.

My newest concern is that I ran the car about 20 minutes trying to burp the coolant system and my thermostat never opened. I have a aftermarket gauge that I verified in water that works and reads accurately. It never got above 182*. My thermostat is 195*. My upper hose was always empty. I did prefill my intake thru the heater core hose fitting and then filled my radiator to just above the fins. I drilled 2 small holes in my thermostat per instructions I found on VMF. I had no coolant leak. I am stumped... do I just run it for longer? I know it was 35* out this morning but I figured after 20 minutes it would have hit operating temps and opened... any insight?!?
 
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