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Discussion Starter #1
Happy Friday to all,
As I'm planning my engine pulling weekend I thought I should ask when preparing the chain hookup for our 302 which is missing both heads, should I attach just at two points (upper headbolt holes going kiddycorner using a load leveler), or should I run the chains to make 4 point contact at all four upper head bolt corners with the load leveler running right down the center?. Figured that if I pull both engine and tranny together, there's a fair amount of weight and connecting via 4 points would add a little more mental security though I'm sure not all 4 corners would be sharing the load equally.

Also when pulling tranny/engine together, does the tie rod or 2nd cross member get removed first? Just trying to imagine what the engine/tranny might run into while it is being yanked out. I have the water pump and timing cover removed.
 

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Do you have the intake on or off?

One way:
4 bolts into intake holes with intake off
http://www.dodgestang.com/images/engineinstall10.jpg

Another way:
4 bolts into accesorry bolt holes on the heads with intake on.
http://www.dodgestang.com/images/FIXLE017.jpg

Doing it like this with just 2 bolts is not a good IMO. I only use 2 bolts when I am picking up one side of the motor only. Otherwise when you lift the motor it will want to rotate on you to where the load is balanced side to side, where as with 4 bolt points, you generally come out almost balanced just right side to side.
http://www.dodgestang.com/images/FIXLE018.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Intake and both heads are off. Like your pics. The first one using 1 chain for each end of the leveler is exactly what I was imagining.
 

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IMHO, toss the load leveler into the dumpster. It just gets in the way, are PITA to use (poor quality, poor threads) and they reduce the effective lifting height of the hoist to a point where I've had to let all the air out of the car's tires to avoid dragging the motor across the fenders. A good engine sling with an adjustable hoist point are all you need.

This is similar to the one I have, but mine is from Mac.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/149802_lg.jpg

I normally use just two bolts, an accessory bolt hole on the front of one head and the corresponding hole on the opposite head in the rear. Since the shear force required to snap a 3/8 or 7/16 bolt is in the 10's or 100's of thousands of pounds, I have no worries lifting a 700 lb engine/tranny combo.

I've pulled and installed upwards of 50 motors since I started wrenching in 89. I've never sheared a bolt, dropped a motor or had my 2-bolt chain setup fail. This includes everything from 302's, 351C's, 460's, SBC, BBC, and even a couple Pontiacs, most with transmissions attached.

For your headless motor, I'd use the two topmost head bolt holes with a couple of grade 8 bolts, NOT the headbolts.
 

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IMHO, toss the load leveler into the dumpster. It just gets in the way, are PITA to use (poor quality, poor threads) and they reduce the effective lifting height of the hoist to a point where I've had to let all the air out of the car's tires to avoid dragging the motor across the fenders. A good engine sling with an adjustable hoist point are all you need.
If you're pulling an engine/tranny without at least a second strong person to help lift, shove, move, etc. a leveler can be a necessity, to let you pivot the tranny down for extraction and then level the combo to clear the rad support.

If you're doing an engine-only pull or have a second set of muscles to lift and twist, you're right, levelers are a PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When using the leveler and assuming I'm pulling both tranny and engine, is it best to set the leveler pivot point in the middle of the leveler. Or possibly a little towards the rear so when it's time to tilt tail end down, you would have that more room to do it?
 

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In the middle is okay. It doesn't take much to tilt the assembly down for clearance, especially if you've got clear air all the way from the timing cover to the radiator support.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As noted in an updated post, due to the maximum height of the engine hoist I used, I chose to pull the engine seperately first and then jacked up the car pulling the tranny out through the front. Pretty easy.

Thanks for everyone's input. This was far easier that I was imagining.
 
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