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1967 Mustang Convertible
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So i need to replace my radiator as I found a pin hole size leak near the top of the radiator. It is old so might be the original 20" radiator. Was going to go with Champion 2 core radiator. I have read on this site about using an Anode to stop corrosion, and I see NPD has the following Radiator cap:


Since not sure where else i would place it unless I remove the petcock and place it there? Anyone have exprience with this cap or is it better to place it where the petcock is?

2nd question is I replaced my Dash pad a few months ago and its taking up a lot of space in my shed, does anyone think there will be any value to keeping it or will this be useful for refinishing it in the future? If not its going in the trash during bulk pickup in a couple of weeks along with all my leaves and old branches.
 

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Six of one, half-dozen of another. Haven't used the cap. Typically install anodes in the block drain holes during a rebuild. Petcock is also a decent location. Anodes on a wire can also be hooked to the lower hose at the radiator and clamped down with it to the radiator outlet. No comment on saving the dash pad.... if you don't think you'll ever use it offer it up to someone for free or toss it.
 

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As long as you change your coolant every two years you won't need a sacrificial anode. If the coolant is changed it will not become an electrolyte. Unfortunately people do not change the cool and brake fluid according to the recommended service intervals like they do with their oil.


Sacrificial anodes are used on marine engines because the salt in the water conducts electricity real well and allows electrolysis to happen. My theory on stuff like this is if it was needed the factory would have installed them.


Sacrificial anodes are put on to prevent galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact with each other in the presence of an electrolyte. Typically, the electrolyte is salt water. Basically, you are creating a battery and one metal will 'eat' the other

This guy says its a scam.


Im.away

OK, I have read the terms and conditions for using this site and I've read the "before you post, read this" thingy, and as far as I can tell I don't think what I'm about to post is doing anything wrong. So here goes...

One of the "page sponsors" that crop up frequnetly on this site and this forum is ERPS. ERPS sell electronic rust prevention systems. Now I know that there are a lot of people out there that have fitted these and will swear that they work because they take their car into the sea and they don't have rust blah, blah....

Well I'm here to advise everybody that is thinking of getting one of these that THEY DO NOT WORK! They cannot work. I am a corrosion guy. For a living I ensure that bried gas pipelines do not turn into big rusty holes in the ground. I know the theory of corrosion and I know that these things can't work.

I have found a web page that explains why in fairly simple terms and the link is below. I have also seen papers, speeches made by the most eminent people in the corrosion field, that in great detail prove that these things don't work. Read this Why electronic rust protection systems can't work and then think really carefully about purchasing one.

Your money would be better spent repairing any coating damage on your vehicle, washing your vehicle often and drying it thoroughly and by getting some form of coating enhancement to protect your paintwork from chips and scratches.

This is not some sort of vendetta. Companies making these systems clearly think that they have a product that will work but it is worth having a bit more of a look around the Internet and you will see that in many States of the US and Canada, these systems have been banned from sale - because they don't work.

This says its a scam on a car.

Electronic corrosion protection


Marine Anodes

How Do Sacrificial Anodes Work? – BoatTech – BoatUS

Engine Anodes | West Marine
 

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As long as you change your coolant every two years you won't need a sacrificial anode. If the coolant is changed it will not become an electrolyte. Unfortunately people do not change the cool and brake fluid according to the recommended service intervals like they do with their oil.


Sacrificial anodes are used on marine engines because the salt in the water conducts electricity real well and allows electrolysis to happen. My theory on stuff like this is if it was needed the factory would have installed them.


Sacrificial anodes are put on to prevent galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact with each other in the presence of an electrolyte. Typically, the electrolyte is salt water. Basically, you are creating a battery and one metal will 'eat' the other

This guy says its a scam.


Im.away

OK, I have read the terms and conditions for using this site and I've read the "before you post, read this" thingy, and as far as I can tell I don't think what I'm about to post is doing anything wrong. So here goes...

One of the "page sponsors" that crop up frequnetly on this site and this forum is ERPS. ERPS sell electronic rust prevention systems. Now I know that there are a lot of people out there that have fitted these and will swear that they work because they take their car into the sea and they don't have rust blah, blah....

Well I'm here to advise everybody that is thinking of getting one of these that THEY DO NOT WORK! They cannot work. I am a corrosion guy. For a living I ensure that bried gas pipelines do not turn into big rusty holes in the ground. I know the theory of corrosion and I know that these things can't work.

I have found a web page that explains why in fairly simple terms and the link is below. I have also seen papers, speeches made by the most eminent people in the corrosion field, that in great detail prove that these things don't work. Read this Why electronic rust protection systems can't work and then think really carefully about purchasing one.

Your money would be better spent repairing any coating damage on your vehicle, washing your vehicle often and drying it thoroughly and by getting some form of coating enhancement to protect your paintwork from chips and scratches.

This is not some sort of vendetta. Companies making these systems clearly think that they have a product that will work but it is worth having a bit more of a look around the Internet and you will see that in many States of the US and Canada, these systems have been banned from sale - because they don't work.

This says its a scam on a car.

Electronic corrosion protection


Marine Anodes

How Do Sacrificial Anodes Work? – BoatTech – BoatUS

Engine Anodes | West Marine
Your reference to the "guy that says it's a scam" is not relative to sacrificial anodes, but to "electronic rust prevention systems"... boxes that connect to the battery that supposedly send out electrical charges to the chassis that prevent corrosion.
 

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Your reference to the "guy that says it's a scam" is not relative to sacrificial anodes, but to "electronic rust prevention systems"... boxes that connect to the battery that supposedly send out electrical charges to the chassis that prevent corrosion.


Was that really necessary to criticize me. That's twice in five-minutes. I try to help people because it makes me feel good that I can share what I have learned the hardway over 40-years but If I have to listen to you try and put me in my place with your superior intellect every time I try and help someone its not worht it. I'm a little pissed off right now. Your making this not very much fun for me. You have some kind of Mustang Forum God complex. I'm out of here. I hope was able to help some of you.
 

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VFG, I wouldn't take what you perceive as criticism, as actual criticism.
The dash pad is probably worth some money, if it's not cracked and sagging. I'd rather an original in my car, than any of the incorrect looking repros available.
 

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Was that really necessary to criticize me. That's twice in five-minutes. I try to help people because it makes me feel good that I can share what I have learned the hardway over 40-years but If I have to listen to you try and put me in my place with your superior intellect every time I try and help someone its not worht it. I'm a little pissed off right now. Your making this not very much fun for me. You have some kind of Mustang Forum God complex. I'm out of here. I hope was able to help some of you.
I was not criticizing you. I was pointing out an error/inconsistency in the information you were providing. You provided a reference to a product which had nothing, whatsoever, to do with the topic with the suggestion that anodes are a "scam". If bad information isn't identified it ends up being repeated and then we end up with folks who believe that coolant can travel too fast to absorb heat....

I participate in this forum because I share an interest in the subject, to enjoy the camaraderie with other enthusiast and to share what I have learned, experienced or have collected over the years. I have been called out NUMEROUS times because I have make a mistake. The only person I get mad at is myself, usually for being a dumbass. How can I get mad at someone for pointing out when I was wrong???

I'm sorry that I have, apparently, touched a nerve; my statement was most certainly not offered maliciously. :-(
 

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I can attest sacrificial anode works on boats. My Dad had one of those Miami Vice boats when he lived in Miami (it's a rule). I borrowed the boat for a few months to rebuild and upgrade the engines. At the bottom of the transom was an anode in perfect condition. When I pulled the engines out for the new cradle, I noticed there was no wire connecting it to the drives. When I reinstalled the engines, I added wires from the studs to the drives. The anode showed more corrosion in a week than it had in 20 years.
 

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Ok, this past winter I performed a coolant change after 8-10 years. Yeah, been a long time, but, I did check the acidity over time and the properties that keep the coolant from freezing, even though it's stored in a heated garage. OK, many years ago, 5-7(?) I came upon the conversation dicussiing electrolytic corrosion within our engines, given the different metals, that is, copper, aluminum, steel etc. Therefore, I added an anode in the drain plug location. So, what did I find this past winter...? The anode was covered in some type of corrosion of sorts. But, I didn't find, it had been that compromised when compared to a new one, I had previously ordered to replace. it. See for yourselves....What do you think?
 

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Ok, this past winter I performed a coolant change after 8-10 years. Yeah, been a long time, but, I did check the acidity over time and the properties that keep the coolant from freezing, even though it's stored in a heated garage. OK, many years ago, 5-7(?) I came upon the conversation dicussiing electrolytic corrosion within our engines, given the different metals, that is, copper, aluminum, steel etc. Therefore, I added an anode in the drain plug location. So, what did I find this past winter...? The anode was covered in some type of corrosion of sorts. But, I didn't find, it had been that compromised when compared to a new one, I had previously ordered to replace. it. See for yourselves....What do you think?
One thing to note about your photo.... the "old" anode shows a wrapping of teflon tape on the threads. If you sufficiently "insulate" the anode from the part that it is mounted in/on you render it useless.....
 

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One thing to note about your photo.... the "old" anode shows a wrapping of teflon tape on the threads. If you sufficiently "insulate" the anode from the part that it is mounted in/on you render it useless.....
Hmmm good point! Obviously, I did that to prevent a leak. BTW, it's threaded into a copper RAD. Perhaps a goop sealer of some sort? Thanks for your observation.
 

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Hmmm good point! Obviously, I did that to prevent a leak. BTW, it's threaded into a copper RAD. Perhaps a goop sealer of some sort? Thanks for your observation.
Right. I use a paste sealant sold in hardware/home improvement stores for LPG fittings as it's petroleum-safe.
 

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Right. I use a paste sealant sold in hardware/home improvement stores for LPG fittings as it's petroleum-safe.
As it turned out, you probably noticed the "ARP" thread sealer in the background, I used that for the new one.
 

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Electrolysis will occur when you have marginal grounds. The ground path goes through the coolant, and grounds at the radiator support. I've seen new aluminium radiators eaten away in a month. The current can be read with a multimeter.
If your anode is fine after 5 years (with no tape), I'd call that proof that your ground system is fine.
 

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As far as the dash pad, unless it just trashed somebody would probably love it for a driver that doesn't have a lot of cash to spend, or might even like the weathered look, so offer it up. I love giving to people when I can. Another member sent me a rearview mirror (thanks again!) and it works great in my son's car. Somebody gave me an oily but healthy C4 this last week, and I can't tell you how many times I have helped and been helped...

And yes, my son is wearing a Vintage Firebird shirt. Uncle Buddy is a T/A guy and all of my son's Mustang shirts were probably dirty haha!!
 

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I believe in anode system.. here is what has been in my Jeep CJ5 since before 2005 with no cooling problems to each his own ..but when my 65 is ready I WILL be using this as well as using distilled water to eliminate mineral deposits... agree with other posts in REFERENCE to "THEE" application?
 
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