Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought this '02 Sport Trac 4wd from a family friend with 60K. He bought it new in '02. Now has 150K. PO had never driven it in snow or salt, as he had his BMW shipped from WI to FL each winter. The truck sat in the garage during winter! It is the cleanest Sport Trac you've ever seen!! Over the last few months I have noticed a very quick rattle on the first startup in the morning. No more throughout the day. What is suggested at this point? Religiously change oil every 5K. There is so much written about this problem with the 4.0's, but it is also very confusing. Part of me thinks I should just keep the oil fresh and roll the dice. Some suggest the least painful thing to try is to change the tensioners. I have been pushing the pedal to the floor and cranking before starting, and that seems to make it better/quieter. Love this truck, but don't want to get involved in replacing the engine if the timing chains break.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,036 Posts
My '01 Ranger with the 4.0 SOHC has 250K on it now. It had 30K when I bought it about 15 years ago. I have not replaced any of the timing chains and as far as I know it doesn't rattle but I'm pretty deaf. I have changed the oil every 5K miles and I have always used the Motorcraft synthetic blend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,276 Posts
My 2004 Explorer and 2004 Sport Trac as well as a previous 2002 Ranger all had the 4.0 and had the rattle at startup then instantly quiet. We're still driving the Explorer and Sport Trac with no other issues than the notorious wheel bearings and water outlet / thermostat housing maladies they are famous for. Enjoy your new ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,661 Posts
You need to remove the engine to replace the tensioners as it has a chain at the back of the engine as well as the front. I have a friend with a 2002 explorer 4.0 that had the dreaded rattle at 120,000 and it finally died at 207,000 miles. Everytime i heard it start up I could not believe it was not going to explode that day. It was loud. Either sell it or just drive it unless you can do the work yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,170 Posts
You need to remove the engine to replace the tensioners as it has a chain at the back of the engine as well as the front. I have a friend with a 2002 explorer 4.0 that had the dreaded rattle at 120,000 and it finally died at 207,000 miles. Everytime i heard it start up I could not believe it was not going to explode that day. It was loud. Either sell it or just drive it unless you can do the work yourself.
M'kay

Parts are about $60 at Rock Auto

This vid shows how to replace them without removing the engine. The guys doing it seem to be having a good time....

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,661 Posts
M'kay

Parts are about $60 at Rock Auto

This vid shows how to replace them without removing the engine. The guys doing it seem to be having a good time....

M'kay, I did not watch your video but did they replace the Guides that wear along with the tensioners or did they half ass it and only did the tensioner. Also what about the guide and tensioner in the rear of the engine? either remove the engine or trans to get access.to it no other way to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,170 Posts
M'kay, I did not watch your video but did they replace the Guides that wear along with the tensioners or did they half ass it and only did the tensioner. Also what about the guide and tensioner in the rear of the engine? either remove the engine or trans to get access.to it no other way to do it.
Of course they didn't change the guides, but they did do the tensioners which gets rid of the startup rattle and helps prolong the life of the guides. I'll agree that the "correct" fix is new guides and tensioners, but that might be beyond the scope of the interest of the OP. Given that we're talking about an 18yo vehicle with 150k, half-assing it and throwing $60 worth of parts at it to prolong it's usable life is a better gamble than "just drive it".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,661 Posts
Sure maybe just slapping a new tensioners in might quit it down temporarily but the guides are already gonna be worn and you still have not addressed the rear chain guide and tensioner. So for me I either fix it right by removing the engine, sell it or just drive it. Plenty of these engines live long lives with the dreaded tick.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,036 Posts
In the video they change the rear tensioner through the wheelwell. The video only shows the rear tensioner, not the tools they used, but it looks to me like a long extension with possibly a u-joint between the extension and socket would get it.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top