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I have a 1966 coupe with the 200ci straight 6. I understand that if you have the 1100 carb with the spark control valve, then you HAVE to have the load-o-matic distributor for the proper pairing/match. If not, then it doesn’t run at peak performance.

I have the spark control valve on the carb so I am positive I have the 1100. When I checked the distributor though, I didnt see the 2 little springs that identify it as a load-o-matic.

So it seems I don’t have the proper match. From what I could see on the distributor, it’s a FoMoCo stamp with number 12127 on it. Upon researching that, I found out that distributors used in 64.5 mustangs (prior to the changeover in 1965) had a little hole with a cover for lubrication access.

Sure enough, my distributor matches that and has the hole and cover. I’ll attach a couple pics from the research and of mine.

Can someone explain this to me? Did the previous owner possibly replace the distributor with an early 64.5 later on? Could the 64.5 distributor have found its way onto a 66 mustang on the assembly line?

What is the best option now to make the carb and distributor match? Should I just find a load-o-Matic distributor to match my current carb with spark control valve or is it easier to swap to a 1100 carb with no spark control valve? Do I change anything at all? Any significance to that early 64.5 distributor being on this car? Thanks for any help!




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I have that 12127 distributor and I understand it's from a '68 Mustang to be used with a non SCV carb like a rebuilt Holly 1940 replacement. Seems you need to swap the carb or swap the distributor. I hear getting the non SCV carb to match your distributor should give better performance. I'm able to do either as I have both carbs and both distributors.
 

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Ditch the load-o-crap...sorry, load-O-matic Distributor. Upgrade to duraspark. Some cost involved but worth it.
 

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So, it looks like you have a later "dual advance" distributor and an Autolite 1100 with SCV. Better this configuration than the opposite.

What you want to do is remove the vacuum line from the carburetor and plug the port, then reconnect your vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source....typically there are extra ports below the carburetor in the spacer plate. This is because the SCV in the carburetor modulates the vacuum signal as a "blend" between manifold and venturi vacuum and it typically will never exceed 4"hg which probably wouldn't even move your distributor's vacuum advance unit.

Of course you could always swap your SCV 1100 out for a non-SCV model but why spend the money?
 

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Distributors and carbs get turned in as cores and get rebuilt to whatever specs the vendor needs at the time.

Nothing wrong with points. If you want the stock look, keep the distributor that you have.

I went round and round for over a month on buying a carb.

Ford had many carb specs over the years. The parts houses have condensed their catalogs into only a handful of part numbers.

Your best bet when buying a carb is to find out which rebuilder the parts store uses. Advance uses UREMCO out of Illinois. Call the rebuilder tell them what you need and they will give you the correct p/n. Often the parts store catalog does not differentiate between auto or manual transmission, SCV or not. Also, at least UREMCO is buying China carbs and using them as cores. Make sure you do not turn in a Ford core and get a China carb in return.

Many rebuilders will take your core and rebuild it for you.

The carb I needed for a 67 200/AT was not in Advances catalog. UREMCO gave me a p/n, when I plugged the p/n into Advances search bar, the carb turned up.

UREMCO tells me the biggest problem with 1V carbs is warped bodies or tops and thats why they are using China cores.
 
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ALL Ford distributor housings have 12127 as the basic casting number. In Ford language that means it is a distributor housing and nothing more than that.
 

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I have three 1100s. One is a new aftermarket, one is a new, refurbished and one is one I rebuilt from a kit. All have the spark control valve. I'm running a Duraspark Distributor. I noticed an increase in performance as soon as I had the distributor swapped out. I can't seem to find the load-o whatever distributor. I think my wife dumped it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have that 12127 distributor and I understand it's from a '68 Mustang to be used with a non SCV carb like a rebuilt Holly 1940 replacement. Seems you need to swap the carb or swap the distributor. I hear getting the non SCV carb to match your distributor should give better performance. I'm able to do either as I have both carbs and both distributors.
From all I’ve read though, I believe my distributor is pre ‘65 as it’s the only time they used this type with the hole and cover below for easier lubrication (which I have). Sounds like they used those in the 64.5 and then made a factory change in 65 and older.


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Ditch the load-o-crap...sorry, load-O-matic Distributor. Upgrade to duraspark. Some cost involved but worth it.
Seems like an easy solution. But should I be worried that my carb has the SCV if I go that route? All I’ve read said any carb with a SCV on an 1100 HAS to have the load o matic for proper function and efficiency.


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ALL Ford distributor housings have 12127 as the basic casting number. In Ford language that means it is a distributor housing and nothing more than that.
Thank you. But not all have the oil hole and cover. Sounds like that was only in the 64.5 mustang prior to a factory change in 65. So I’m trying to figure out how a 64.5 distributor landed on my 66. Maybe previous owner made that swap. Wouldn’t think it came off assembly line that way but this car is extremely stock so I’m not positive.


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Thank you. But not all have the oil hole and cover. Sounds like that was only in the 64.5 mustang prior to a factory change in 65. So I’m trying to figure out how a 64.5 distributor landed on my 66. Maybe previous owner made that swap. Wouldn’t think it came off assembly line that way but this car is extremely stock so I’m not positive.


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Your distributor should have not only an engineering number but a date code stamp.

760841
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Your distributor should have not only an engineering number but a date code stamp.

View attachment 760841
Best I can tell it looks like “5JA” which looks like it means:

5 - 65
J - Sept
A - first week

Still wondering if a 64.5 distributor with oil hole and cover could have ended up on my 66 somehow (like as a carry over from factory).


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