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Discussion Starter #1
2011 Ford Ranger, auto, 4x4, V-6.
My power brakes went out the other day, so I replaced the brake booster. Now, the truck won't shift out of Park and the Anti-Skid light stays on.
I removed the master cylinder from both the booster and the hard-lines to get access to the booster. Bled the brakes after install and they feel good. Tried to test drive and it wouldn't shift.
When I checked the brake light switch, to make sure I installed it correctly, I found it had a broken plastic ear that slides over the pedal. Replaced the switch with a new one and have the same problem. Brake lights do come on as normal.

Any idea on what the secret is to getting this in gear? Is it some sort of hidden reset button or what?
Thanks in advance,
Spliffy
 

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Modern vehicles require the key to be on and the brake pedal depressed to shift out of park. There is a solenoid somewhere near the shifter under the car. It probably uses the brake light switch to know that your foot is on the brake, you may want to see if that switch is still connected to the shift solenoid.
 

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Some brake switches have an adjustment procedure, not sure if it applies to yours. There should also be an override method in the owner's manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Modern vehicles require the key to be on and the brake pedal depressed to shift out of park. There is a solenoid somewhere near the shifter under the car. It probably uses the brake light switch to know that your foot is on the brake, you may want to see if that switch is still connected to the shift solenoid.
Tried this. Still no shift. Brake lights work. I have no idea if there is a solenoid under there. I'll look when messing with it tonight.
Spliffy
 

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Some brake switches have an adjustment procedure, not sure if it applies to yours. There should also be an override method in the owner's manual.
I have an Anti-Skid overide button. I hit it and it gives me the override symbol on the instrument panel. But, still has the Anti-Skid on symbol too. The owners manual doesn't have anything other than describing what Anti-Skid is and the override button. My Haynes manual is useless.
Spliffy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll play with it later tonight and see if I can wiggle some wires and recheck that the switch is engaging properly. I'll update this if I find a solution, for any future internet searchers.
Spliffy
 

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The sources for a real factory manual are...

Those are the two most widely info sources used by independent shops. These are DIY versions that you can get for just a month.

You may also need a scanner to see what’s happening with the control modules. How this typically works is the body control module signals the powertrain control module which signals the transmission control module. There’s a good chance it’s not an intermittent wiring issue but some sort of signaling issue. Could be as simple as a reset or recalibration of that function. The only way to tell is by using a real service manual. As you’ve found the Haynes or Chiltons don’t go much past the basics.
 

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I'll play with it later tonight and see if I can wiggle some wires and recheck that the switch is engaging properly. I'll update this if I find a solution, for any future internet searchers.
Spliffy
Did you fix your issue. If not there should be a shift solenoid under the dash bolted to the left side of the steering column. You will want to remove the lower dash cover and the metal cover behind it. The solenoid is a gold color and has a wire connector. Disconnect the connector and you should be able to shift out of park. The older Rangers have this but I doubt Ford changed it on your 2011
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you fix your issue. If not there should be a shift solenoid under the dash bolted to the left side of the steering column. You will want to remove the lower dash cover and the metal cover behind it. The solenoid is a gold color and has a wire connector. Disconnect the connector and you should be able to shift out of park. The older Rangers have this but I doubt Ford changed it on your 2011
Not fixed yet. I towed it to the dealer and they haven't had a chance to get to it yet. I talked with the service guy and he agreed that the Hydraulic Control Unit needs bled with some vacuum tool they use. I played with all the wires under the dash and no help. Brake switch works fine. Good info on that solenoid though. With all of the electric safety/lawsuit stuff on cars today it makes it hard to do simple things.

Spliffy.
 

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Not fixed yet. I towed it to the dealer and they haven't had a chance to get to it yet. I talked with the service guy and he agreed that the Hydraulic Control Unit needs bled with some vacuum tool they use. I played with all the wires under the dash and no help. Brake switch works fine. Good info on that solenoid though. With all of the electric safety/lawsuit stuff on cars today it makes it hard to do simple things.

Spliffy.
Good call on taking it in. What they’ll do is use a scan tool to manipulate the ABS control valves so they can be bled properly. Unless you’ve got a full featured scanner you won’t be able to do that. That’s one of the bummers of modern ABS is that if you get air in the HCU you have to go through a bleed procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just a follow-up: I got the Ranger back today. Blown Fuse #32. I didn't get to talk to the tech, but apparently that is part of the anti-skid system. Brakes work fine. They didn't have to bleed the brakes or mess with the Hydraulic Control Unit. I can only think that it was a coincidence, since I never had power on when replacing the brake booster.

Spliffy
 

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Sorry, I just saw this post.

I had an F150 that would crank, not start, not shift out of Park.

It was a blown fuse, 5 amp

But as soon as I replaced it and turned the key, it blew

I replaced it with a 10A, blew immediately.

I had my ZERO emotion son come out, told him to watch and update me, and never do what I was doing.

I put in a 20 or 25 amp fuse.

It held, the steering column unlocked and the truck started.

My son, calmly speaking, "Dad, your truck is on fire."

It was a wire going to the brake master cylinder, and it was smoking.

I disconnected it, went to Ford, bought the replacement, installed it, and it worked fine PLUS cruise control started working again (had not worked for a long time)

Not long after, I got a recall notice on that part. I took it to Ford, they put the truck in the shop, put a new harness in, threw away the new one I had installed, and refunded my money.
 
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