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I have a new to me 66 A code 4 spd Fastback that was modified 30 years ago(and sitting in a garage ever since) with the Road Race tricks that were available at the time. It looks to have close to the same stance as Brent's car does. It's hard to tell. The fenders have been flared(not sure how much different from from stock they are or how much more room there is). The suspension is 620 Lb springs up front with approx 1 coil cut. 1" Shelby drop. Ball joints flipped on the upper control arms(both upper and lower CA's boxed). 4 1/2 leaf de-arched springs(another 80's term)out back. Koni Orange Shocks, 1 1/8" front bar, 3/4" rear.
It currently has 14x7 wheels(unknown offset) with Ancient Riken 245/60/14 tires front and back. Quick Ratio steering. The front has a very slight rub going over low speed transition bumps/driveways at near lock steering(sounds like fender but I haven't looked for shiny spots) .
It has a stock width 8" 4:11 Trac-loc rear end with a Panhard Bar and Shelby Over-Rider traction bars. Plans are for a 9" swap(I have a 9" housing and 28 spline axles that were in a '65 but near as I can tell looks to be about 1" wider than stock would've been, 53 1/8" flange to flange).
I'd like to move up to 15" Torq Thrust D type wheels but not really sure what offsets I need or are available. I'm thinking(hoping) 15x7 and 15x8 will fit. Tire sizes TBD(most rubber=most fun).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a new to me 66 A code 4 spd Fastback that was modified 30 years ago(and sitting in a garage ever since) with the Road Race tricks that were available at the time. It looks to have close to the same stance as Brent's car does. It's hard to tell. The fenders have been flared(not sure how much different from from stock they are or how much more room there is). The suspension is 620 Lb springs up front with approx 1 coil cut. 1" Shelby drop. Ball joints flipped on the upper control arms(both upper and lower CA's boxed). 4 1/2 leaf de-arched springs(another 80's term)out back. Koni Orange Shocks, 1 1/8" front bar, 3/4" rear.
It currently has 14x7 wheels(unknown offset) with Ancient Riken 245/60/14 tires front and back. Quick Ratio steering. The front has a very slight rub going over low speed transition bumps/driveways at near lock steering(sounds like fender but I haven't looked for shiny spots) .
It has a stock width 8" 4:11 Trac-loc rear end with a Panhard Bar and Shelby Over-Rider traction bars. Plans are for a 9" swap(I have a 9" housing and 28 spline axles that were in a '65 but near as I can tell looks to be about 1" wider than stock would've been, 53 1/8" flange to flange).
I'd like to move up to 15" Torq Thrust D type wheels but not really sure what offsets I need or are available. I'm thinking(hoping) 15x7 and 15x8 will fit. Tire sizes TBD.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ball joints flipped ?
anyway 15x7x4.25 is what you want in the front 15x8x4.5 in the rear should do well

https://www.mustangdepot.com/graphics/tirefitmentguide65-66.pdf
 

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Cool, thanks for your help! Now I know what to start looking for.
The Upper Ball Joints are mounted down instead of up. Some old school trick I guess?
The whole car was done a long time ago and has been dormant for many years. I need to shake it down some and see what it needs where.
All I've done so far is drive it home.
 

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Cool, thanks for your help! Now I know what to start looking for.
The Upper Ball Joints are mounted down instead of up. Some old school trick I guess?
The whole car was done a long time ago and has been dormant for many years. I need to shake it down some and see what it needs where.
All I've done so far is drive it home.
I'd be interested in seeing how this ball joint mod is done
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Just a heads up for everyone..

I went 225/60R15 with Cooper CS5;s. Drove 4300 miles in about 9 days. (power tour and then the cannonball to get home) They handled pretty well for an All season. GREAT in the rain. Not much noise. Good wear. Produce gobs of burnout smoke.

HOWEVER! The front fenders needed to be rolled with how low my car sits on the SorT coil overs. I need to trim the rear lips as well, as the rub with a full (22gal) tank and all our gear. But just barely.

I'm now gonna find some red lines to put on the 14in styled steels for local shows and that retro vibe. These and the legendary wheels have become my road trip tires. When I burn them off, Ill swap to some 50 series grippier tires.
 

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links not working
15x7x4.25 with 225/60/15 squared will work
or the more common
15x7x3.75 with 215/60/15
 

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I live in N. Central PA and we have some nice twistys which I really enjoy.

Well, your in Huskinhano country I believe which depending on how nice your car is, you could be a candidate for the Rat Pack and our occasional gatherings at autocross courses and opening day at Watkins Glen. However, we are pretty particular about which cars we let into our "club". Most Mustangs are too nice to qualify but perhaps with the right "initiation fee" we might be able to bend the rules and give out an "associate membership", we would have to run that by the board for review first but I could put in a good word if you have aspirations...


Cheers


M
 

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I've been running the 225/60s in the back for a bit now, and 205/60 in the front. So far they seem like a great tire. I could get a little sideways with my stock 289 C-Code on 205/75/14 trailer tires just stabbing the gas while making a turn. Even though I know my car is pumping out 320+ rwhp now (dyno confirmed), that doesn't really happen as often with the Sportracs: they grip. I'm pretty much sold on them as the tire to go with for 65/66 with 15" wheels. Unfortunately they might not have the sizes you 67-70 and 71-73 guys want, especially in the rear.
 

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Hi Brent, thanks for the welcome. Your car looks great with that setup. I didn't do any lowering except for the drop -- I replaced the rear springs ( worn out ) with stock type and new KYB shocks all around. I'm hoping not to have to do too much fender rolling. The guys at Scott Drake say that the 215/60s should be fine up front. I live in N. Central PA and we have some nice twistys which I really enjoy. Last year I put on a 1" front stabilizer bar and an export brace, and with the Shelby drop it really holds on the turns. As soon as the weather gets nice I'm getting busy on the tire/wheel/disc project.
Well, your in Huskinhano country I believe which depending on how nice your car is, you could be a candidate for the Rat Pack and our occasional gatherings at autocross courses and opening day at Watkins Glen. However, we are pretty particular about which cars we let into our "club". Most Mustangs are too nice to qualify but perhaps with the right "initiation fee" we might be able to bend the rules and give out an "associate membership", we would have to run that by the board for review first but I could put in a good word if you have aspirations...


Cheers


M
I vote after the tire/wheel package is sorted out or during if help is needed help that a preliminary meet with @Huskinhano is in order to assess the level of Rat Pack Worthiness. :|
It would be awesome to have more vintage (Ford especially) iron show up for opening weekend at WGI and Autox daze :smile2:
 

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Cooper Cobras and BFG T/As seem to be the ones to supply the 225/235/245-60r15s. I was running 225/60 front and 245/60 rear with rolled fenders and lowered about 2” all around. 225/235 should be a good combo.
Did your 245s rub. I am getting my fenders rolled as we speak. I am running 205/60/15 in front and 225/60/15 in rear. I’m thinking of moving Installing 225 in front and getting 245 for the rear. I had a scraping issue for my rears only.
 

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Did your 245s rub.
They rubbed some on hard hits or hard cornering before. My car sits low, like they had to call for help to get lift arms under it to put on my tires low. All that being said, when I had the bodywork done and before painting I had them roll my front and rear fender lips practically flat. Only thing is it’s jus a pretty shell right now so I don’t know what kind o clearance I gained yet.
 

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They rubbed some on hard hits or hard cornering before. My car sits low, like they had to call for help to get lift arms under it to put on my tires low. All that being said, when I had the bodywork done and before painting I had them roll my front and rear fender lips practically flat. Only thing is it’s jus a pretty shell right now so I don’t know what kind o clearance I gained yet.
Good info thanks Russ
 
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