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Thanks Shannon. I thought that the piece that already has the hole in it bolted to the diagonal frame brace. I almost have the radiator installed. Do you recall how much space there should be between the bottom of the radiator and the bottom of the front support?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks Shannon. I thought that the piece that already has the hole in it bolted to the diagonal frame brace. I almost have the radiator installed. Do you recall how much space there should be between the bottom of the radiator and the bottom of the front support?
Teddy,

I tried hard to get the radiator to sit as close to the support as possible. So much so I even shaved the rubber radiator mounts. This was mainly due to the radiator cap's tendency to barely rub the forward support beam on back part of the hood. I have a Ring Brother's glass hood so your mileage may vary on that. Shaving the rubber mounts fixed that.

Anyway, I just measured and it looks like at the lowest point (the ribs of the radiator), I'm a little less than a 1/2 inch from the cross beam.

Hope this helps,
-Shannon
 

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So ever since I've had my 331, my cooling system has been able to borderline keep my 1965 cool. A couple years ago, I upgraded to a larger radiator, then a high flow water pump.. they all helped, but on a really hot day, if I was running it hard, the temp would slowly start to creep up until I let off of it. It would idle all day without overheating and I had no trouble on the highway. But on a really hot day (90+), if I wanted to, I could make it overheat by just spiritedly driving around.

I've got an A/C system installed, but I've never got it charged because I thought that the extra heat would be the straw that broke the camels back. Although I've always thought the addition of the condenser in front of my radiator was responsible for most of my problems.

I've been running a Derale electric fan for the past few years. Its a nice unit (Link to Summit Racing) and it pulls a lot of air for it size. But compared to a modern OEM electric fan or even a clutch fan, its pretty puny. The problem is, the 1965-66 radiator size is pretty small at about 16" and I have less than 4" of depth from the radiator to the water pump pulley. All this makes my electric fan choices somewhat limited.

I've been contemplating moving to a larger radiator. I read an article on Mustang Steve's website (Link) that detailed how to install a 20" to 24" radiator in a 65-66 Mustang. So after a lot of reading, I decided to take the plunge.

I obtained the following parts:


  1. A 24" ACP aluminum radiator for a 1970 Mustang. I need the lower outlet on the drivers side. (Link). The reason I picked this unit is because of the dual core / 1.25" tubes and it fits with all the factory mounting brackets.
  2. Lower radiator brackets for a 1968-70 Mustang (Link)
  3. An Upper radiator bracket for a 1967-68 Mustang (Link)
  4. Insulators for the above brackets (Lower) and (Upper)
  5. I sourced an electric fan from a 1999 Ford Contour V6. Its a dual fan setup and it blows like a friggin hurricane. Plus, it fits the 24" radiator like it was made for it.
  6. For the upper radiator hose, I used a Gates 21736 hose. This is a lower radiator hose for a Bronco II
  7. I already owned this, but I have an Autocool 85 contoller (Link). I can't say enough good things about this controller. Ground based, variable temp, dual fan capable, good to 85 total amps, soft start, 1 minute cool down, A/C and manual overrides, USA made. Awesome setup.

I took the front end off the car and used Mustang Steve's dimensions to cut the opening:



I had to modify the new lower radiator brackets a bit to fit my 1965 strut rod brace.. but once that was done, the radiator fit great. I mounted the fan to the radiator using some 3/4" angle aluminum sourced from Lowes.

Below is a pic of the fan as I was fabbing up the wiring harness. I used 10 gauge wire and 30 amp fuses for each fan. The controller I use is ground based so the red wires go directly to the battery and the black to the controller. This is before I wrapped up the harness obviously:



Here is the setup installed and complete:





I got lucky, because even the condensor A/C lines fit:


So how does it perform? HA!!! Like a champ. Today was a great testing day in NC. The temp was 93-95 degrees and the engine temp never went above 180 no matter how hard I ran it. That Contour fan is amazing and blows probably double the rate of my old Derale.

The best part, unless you're a vintage Mustang know-it-all, you'd swear it was a factory setup. :)

Thanks for reading.

-Shannon
Shannon,

By chance is the Bronco II hose a Gates 8201, or equivalent, for a V6 with manual trans?

Thank you.

Rusty
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Rusty.. I'm going back in time a bit, but I'm pretty sure its a Gates 20702 hose, which fits a 71 Maverick 302.

Let me know if you need any more info.

-Shannon
 

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Electric Fan Procedure

Shannon


Great Article with pictures. Do you have the steps for the wiring configuration? I have that fan assembly. I want to work on the wire portion and get that going before removing and draining the radiator.


Thank You


Lewis
US Army Retired Disabled
 

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I ran the Contour fan years ago with a 26" rad but it just didn't keep the supercharged 331 and A/C setup cool.

Fast forward to present days. I have a 363 now in place of the 331. I used a custom made rad from Wizard Cooling. Powerful dual pullers. Worked better but still would push 240* with the AC on a 100* day.

I finally was able to figure this out. I added a 10" pusher in front of the AC condenser. Now it stays 225* or less on hot summer days here in the desert.


Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive air manifold Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I see the fans connected to the orange harness. Did that come from the Contour or somewhere else?


Thank You


Lewis
US Army Retired Disabled
Hey Lewis,

Thanks for the kind words on the setup. It's been great so far.

I made the harness. The red wires (they look orange in the pics), are fused ( 30 amps for each fan... You can see the fuse connectors mounted on the fan housing) and go directly to the battery.

The black wires go to the AutoCoolGuy controller. The controller is ground based, and it varies the ground to control the speed of the fans. It runs both fans at the same time.

I used these fuse connectors: Amazon Link

And these pigtails for the Contour fan: RockAuto Link

This is the link for the AutoCoolGuy 85 Controller: AutoCoolGuy Link


Let me know if you need any more info,

-Shannon
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
DrStang,

Sweet looking setup! I'll bet that beast goes like stink!! :)

-Shannon

I ran the Contour fan years ago with a 26" rad but it just didn't keep the supercharged 331 and A/C setup cool.

Fast forward to present days. I have a 363 now in place of the 331. I used a custom made rad from Wizard Cooling. Powerful dual pullers. Worked better but still would push 240* with the AC on a 100* day.

I finally was able to figure this out. I added a 10" pusher in front of the AC condenser. Now it stays 225* or less on hot summer days here in the desert.

 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Where did you order your Electric Fan setup from? Did the electric fans come with the wire harnesses to the fans? How did you mount the fans to the radiator?
I personally got my fan from a boneyard. Probably not too many of those left. If you check rockauto, you can pick one up if you look up a 1999 Ford Contour v6.

I found the fan wiring pigtails here: Link.

For the 30 amp fuse holders, I used this: Link

I used 3/4" angle aluminum on each side to mount the fan to the radiator. The Contour fan fits like it was made for it.

-Shannon
 

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BTW.. I used this little beast to cut the sheet metal. I have no idea how I've survived without one of these tools for so long!

I've already used it for 3-4 other projects and I've only had it a month.

Link to Amazon

-Shannon
Yes! I have that exact IR saw. Don't know how I've been without it. But, worth every single cent!
 
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