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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just bought everything to do this with a Contour fans and a 95 Amp 3G Alternator.

This is what I bought:

Alternator:
https://www.carid.com/remy/new-alternator-mpn-92305.html
I can use either a standard pulley or a HiPo pulley. On the 3G alternator is there a reason to use the HiPo pulley?

Alternator install stuff:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/30-4-gauge-alternator-power-wire-kit-w-200-amp-fuse/p/WALT20/
https://www.cjponyparts.com/pa-performance-alternator-conversion-kit-allows-use-of-3g-130-amp-alternator-1965-1985/p/ALTCK/

Battery stuff:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/M3535A/p/M3535A
https://www.cjponyparts.com/M3537/p/M3537
https://www.cjponyparts.com/M3537A/p/M3537A/

Radiator:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1970-FORD-MUSTANG-MERCURY-COUGAR-RADIATOR-24-ALUMINUM-FACTORY-A-C/352292324281

Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-620-104-Radiator-Fan-Assembly/dp/B000C17G9K

Fan Controller:
Multispeed Controllers and Accessories
("2-Fan" unit with Contour specific harness)

All-in cost is $701.09 with taxes, shipping, etc.

I liked the radiator because it had 1-1/8" tubes instead of just 1" like every other aluminum 2-row. I probably could have gotten a 1" tube radiator for much less. I might paint the top tank black for more of a stealth install.

I realize that even with the new battery tray things will be a bit tight. My plan was just to offset the radiator to the driver side by around an inch or so.

I'm replacing a 4-Row aluminum Champion with a 14" Derale fan on the pushing on the front. Something I should have never bought, but at the time I didn't know any better. It cools OK, stays around 205, but the fan is ALWAYS on, even when the ambient is not that high (like mid 70s). There is not room for a more aggressive puller fan on the back of the radiator due to the thinkness. I imagine that with a mechanical fan this would be a better setup.

I'm hoping that I never have to think about the cooling system ever again.

I'll try to document and take pics as I go but I am notoriously bad at that.
 

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I plan on putting a 67 radiator in mine as well...but since my front frame member and radiator support is in need of replacement...I plan on swapping those out(and the front fender aprons due to bad patching by PO) for 67 units first. Practically speaking..the extra 1/8" of pipe diameter would make little difference...its usually not the pipes that limit coolant flow...but I would probably do the same thing given a choice.

What is the fan meant for by the way?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Replacing the sheet metal is certainly the cleanest way to do it. The fans are what people call "Contour fans" from the Ford Contour.

With aluminum radiators you want fewer, wider rows. I think the extra 12.5% in capacity on two rows will make a difference without compromising airflow like a 3rd row would.
 

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I’ll be watching with interest. I haven’t even driven my car yet yet and I’m already thinking I should have done this upgrade.
 

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I think its overkill but more power to ya.:yoho:

Im pretty sure the HiPo pulley was a deeper groove, maybe a different diameter since they were expected to spin more RPM.
I would get a dual belt one if you have the extra crank pulley to avoid any slipping squeal big ALTs can cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Really, it's half about the radiator capacity and half about being able to use a good fan setup. The Contour fan, from everything I've read, is just the way to go when it comes to electric fans (without getting into brushless / PWM stuff). I suppose you could go with a 20" radiator and use the fan that people refer to as a "Mark VII" or "Taurus fan," which is a single, two speed fan. That might have been a good way for me to go- but you're still addressing the battery and you're not really saving any money. I wish I'd gotten a 2-row aluminum and 16" SPAL fan the first time around to see how that'd do but here we are and I'm afraid I'll be disappointed if I do almost a side-grade like that. So I'm going UP.

Also, keep in mind that being in Colorado does mean less air molecules hitting the fins. Does it matter much? I don't know.
 

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I have the Contour fans, you can even get OEM type pigtails for the fans at Rock Auto. I'm going to use one of the AutoCoolGuys PWM controllers to power them, mainly because of the 100A start up current that these fans pull.
 

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Here's how I did my Contour fans. I found some split tubing on mcmaster.com to install around the plastic edge of the shroud, this should prevent any chafing between the aluminum and the shroud as well as seal it a little better. The split tubing is held in place with 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
 

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And with the radiator in.....no more overheating
What is that radiator from? Looks like someone decided to throw surface area at the problem until it went away. I think I have seen smaller radiators on cement trucks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Initially I had planned to bolt mine to the apron, perhaps with spacers, however I decided to use the 67+ top mount with rubber insulators and improvise my own lower mounts similar to what another member has done. I was able to pound out the area in the corner behind the battery, this got me about an inch more room (every inch counts here). I'm going to have to drill out the bracket that is attached to tray and improvise something else though. This would be a lot easier if you were just putting the battery in the trunk or running a smaller Odyssey battery or something. I have the Autolite AGM reproduction battery that is like $350 now, if you can even find it.
 
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