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Discussion Starter #1
All right, it's getting warm out and I have to start planning for my car.

I'm pulling my 289 in a few weeks and I'm going to take it to a shop to see if the block is still good. Now if it is, I'll keep the block and probably get a 302 rotating assembly, probably gt40 heads, medium cam (dont know yet), and decent headers. I haven't looked at anything for this car in 6 months so I forgot all the "specific" parts. What kind of power output can I expect from the engine with a combo like this? I know there are some variables here, but what I'm looking for is 300hp. The more the merrier, but I'd be happy with 300. If this won't get me to 300, what is the most widely accepted combo?

Thanks much
 

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Vague... But pretty much on point. You can get 300 HP out of a 302 with GT40 heads and a decent cam. Maybe an Air Gap manifold and a good 650 carb. You should be in the ballpark without spending a lot of $$.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I know it's vague, but I don't want to know HP down to single digits. I forgot to list an intake. I didn't want to word it as "what do i need to hit 300hp?". That shows lazyness on my part, which I am not. One thing I don't really know is how much it'll take to recondition my block. So that obviously affects how much I can spend.
 

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I'm in a similar situation. The engine I'm running now is solid but lacking severly in the "head" department. I just can't get passed how cheap crate motors have gotten. I've built plenty of motors so it's not that I would shy away from a build, but how nice would it be to just order a 340HP crate motor for $3K and just drop it in over a weekend (or a few hours if you feel ambitious!)
 

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The basic 306 Ford Racing crate motor is about $3400. Most Mustang vendors have it.
 

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That's the one, aside from your 289 block (assuming it's good) it's pretty much what you seem to be looking for. It seems to me that it would be a bit easier, much faster (to get it back in the car) and just about the same $$$ if not less.
:) imagine the new crate motor waiting on the floor while you pull the 289...I bet you could swap it out and be driving in under 6 hours!! That's worth something!!
 

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My 289 has right around 360 at the flywheel, but it wasn't cheap! You can do anything if you spend the $$

It would be cheaper to make that HP with a 302, but do it with a 289 and it has the jaw drop reaction!
 

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I'm sure you can get 400hp out of a 289 with enough $.
Yep, about $3500, intake to oil pan.

$1500 - 289 rebuild with good Probe forged pistons, and arp hardware in the rods, get a roller block if you can because it'll save you money on the lifters later.
$1300 new, $700-$900 used - TFS Twisted Wedge 170cc cylinder heads. Add $150 to get them down to a reasonable chamber size for good compression...or even better, get a good set of used 54cc Canfield 195cc heads.
$250 - New Victor Jr intake manifold.
$121 - FMS hydraulic roller lifters
$400 - Custom Billet Hydraulic Roller Cam.

The cam will be application specific. If you want stock type manners and 3.50:1 gears...do 215/[email protected]" or so, .600" lift with 1.7 rockers, put it on a 114LSA installed at 112-113ICL, run a 750ish cfm carb and the biggest headers you can find (we used 1 7/8" primaries). This cam in a 302 with the above recipe for the long block pushed a 3300lb 5spd car to [email protected] (that's WELL over 400hp), idles at 750rpm, and pulls 16"-17" of vacuum doing it. It makes STUPID bottom end power. Redline is 7000rpm if you shim your lifters properly, 6500rpm or so if you install them from the factory. This is a 100k mile motor easy, and mileage with the 3.55's and a T5 was very reasonable. If you can afford to inject it...prepare for a true best of both worlds motor...400hp+, and 20+mpg highway.

If you want to go a bit more aggressive, you could do a bit more duration (using the same longblock!), something like 225/[email protected]", the same or more lift with 1.7 rockers if Bullet has a good lobe for it. Put it on a 112LSA, installed at 109-110ICL. Idle will be 900ish rpm, and it'll pull 10"-12" of vacuum. You could run this cam as a hydraulic roller or as a tight lash solid roller if you wanted max power. Redline as a SR would be 8000ish or so, probably somewhere around 7000-7500 as a HR, with properly setup lifters. You'd want more gear, probably a good 4.11 would be minimum in a regular weight car...but the thing would be a lightning bolt, guaranteed.

So, less than $3500 for an all new (even less if you're thrifty and shop good used parts) excellent quality, high reliability/durability motor that pulls well over 400hp guaranteed.

Not too bad if you ask me =D.

Cris
 

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Discussion Starter #16
you sir, know your stuff. I personally enjoyed the $121. Call me stupid, but I don't know what a roller block is other than roller camshafts, etc.
 

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you sir, know your stuff. I personally enjoyed the $121. Call me stupid, but I don't know what a roller block is other than roller camshafts, etc.
Thanks, I think lol...the $121 was because I popped over to Summit real fast to price the heads, intake, and lifters new lol. All that pricing is up to date right out of the Summit site.

And I'd never call a guy stupid unless he called me stupid first =p.

A roller block is a late model block that will accept factory style hydraulic roller lifters with the required dog bones and retainer. Thinking about putting a 289 crank in it you'd have compatibility issues with the rear seal. So if there was no way around that, add $200 or so to the price of the lifters since you'd be using an early block...go used on the intake and heads...and still come in well under $3500 =D!

Cris
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ah. Now I think that setup will end up costing too much with the price of headers and 750 carb. But for 300hp, I wouldnt have to get forged pistons and that'd make the block work a few hundred cheaper.
 

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ah. Now I think that setup will end up costing too much with the price of headers and 750 carb. But for 300hp, I wouldnt have to get forged pistons and that'd make the block work a few hundred cheaper.
Here's the deal though...

Put a set of $150 Summit racing 1 5/8" headers on it, and any carb you can get your hands on for cheap. I personally like the Edelbrock 1407 for a car that sees tons of street use in the hands of a hobbiest.

It'll cost you a crapload less...still make great power (I can't see the thing losing as much as 100hp+...), and when you get the opportunity to upgrade down the road...do so. The cylinder head choice gives you room to grow later, and in the mean time you have a very efficient build with a great, purpose designed cam.

The point with the build list that I gave you is to have a tried and true parts list. Those parts work, I (and others I know), have built them...more than once. In a light weight (2800-2900lb) car, geared properly...either one is a solid low 11/high 10 second motor, all with EXCELLENT manners and perfect drivability. No bucking if you select the wrong gear. The first cam, in that 302...would pull 5th gear happily at 45mph in a 3300lb car with the 3.55 gears.
 
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