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Discussion Starter #1
As part of my 'week off of fun' last week, changing the oil in the 65 was a simple enough task to accomplish. So I thought.

I did as follows:
warm up engine
raise front and put in jack stands
remove drain pug, drain oil (black as night), let it drip for a while
remove oil filter
replace drain plug, (I learned a long time ago that this is a very important step)
fill new oil filter with oil and install
add remaining oil from the can and 3 other full cans
check oil level for kicks (expecting to be a qt low)
It's full! With only 4 quarts.

Something wrong here, let's run it for a few min., check oil, FULL!

Let's go for a drive, check oil, FULL! Nice and clean too. Not like there is a quart of black mixed in there.

Now, is it possible I have the wrong dipstick tube? Too short, thus making the dipstick go too far into the pan, resulting in a false FULL?

Engine gas a stock pan and a dipstick w/o a part number, but stamped FORD, same length as the one in my 68 289,

Pulled the valve covers to see if the oil returns were pugged causing a quart of oil to be stored in there. Nothing but a nice thin coating of super clean oil in there and obstuction free oil returns,

Any ideas what is going on here?

What length should the dipstick tube be?

Thanks
 

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hmmm, it should be 5 qts. Be careful changing oil with the front jacked up, as the gradient in the pan down to the plug only works if the pan is level. Just curious, why are you changing the oil hot?

can you find another dipstick and check the length? Ive used dipsticks that were too long before, but Ive matched them to a stock stick and cut to length.
 

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I am curious as to why you warmed up the engine and THEN changed the oil? It seems to me that the best time to change the oil would be when the oil has had a chance to completely drain down to the oil pan.
 

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I don't know about him but i do find it easier to get all the old oil(or more of it) by warming it up and jacking the car. it's not realy that hot when i drain it anyways so i realy don't care.
 

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Warm, thin oil drains better. Some will also argue that warming/circulating the oil will help suspend any contaminants in the oil, so they will drain easily, instead of lying on "flat" surfaces.

I've always changed it warm - just the way I was taught.

This How-to Article Also Agrees.

As far as the original problem - sounds like a dipstick issue to me.I'd add the 5th quart and "recalibrate" the dipstick.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the back up on the 'warm oil', I was told to do it way back when also.

I think I will do the re-calabration as you suggested.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Please read gt350clone's reply. I guess it how they taught us old timers ::
 

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It also recommends pre-soiled clothing and surgical gloves...

I do agree with their "one-hour" logic, but they also say:

STEP FOUR ...Most of the oil will drain in about two minutes.

STEP SIX ...Now, here's the deal. If you're in a hurry, you can dive right in and finish the oil change. But think about it. Drops of dirty oil are still dripping down. Personally, we like to give it a good hour to drain completely. They don't do that in the quick-lube places. If you have the time, peel off your gloves and take a break. Grab a bite, drink some soda, watch the tube.


I detect a little humor in that last line... ;)

Can you find an article that says to drain oil COLD? ::
 

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Discussion Starter #12
As luck would have it, I drove the old 65 in today also. I'll go check it out. Thanks for the quick info.
::
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mark- I just measured the DS tube at 9.5" and the DS at 18.5-18.75". It seems my tube may be an inch short. :eek:

Thanks
 

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oh Im not fussing about it, it does seem a bit tongue-in-cheek. The gloves are great until they get wet with the oil, then its like holding jello until you change them...


I figure that at 3k miles under normal driving conditions, waiting an hour is a bit of overkill, eh wot? The oil has prob not even made its acquaintances with your bearings....but then, I do set my standards rather depressingly low... :: Remember when the "books" said you could wait to change the filter every OTHER oil change??
 

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Pete,

Do you think that was a performance modification performed by some PO in the past? ::
 

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My 5.0L (early pan, early pick up, early timing cover and dipstick) requires 5.25 quarts to hit the full line on the dipstick. Just did oil change, including FL1A filter a couple days ago.
 

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I've always read/heard to warm the engine up before changing the oil. However, I opt to change it with the engine cold. Obviously, it is more comfortable than working with hot engine components; but more importantly, it seems to me that most of the "bad" oil with all its impurities has settled into the pan. I really don't want to recirculate that stuff throughout the engine before draining it. Today's multi-grade oils flow easily when cold so I don't think that's an issue. I suppose whatever method is used is OK, with the merits of one over the other being theoretical.
 

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I also check the back side of the stick with what it shows on the front. Sometimes it shows 1/2 a quart difference. I know this doesn't solve your problem, but thought I'd throw it out there.... :p
 

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Besides the length of the oil dipstick and tube. Do you know what the correct length of a C4 trans dipstick and tube are?
 
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