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Discussion Starter #1
well like the title says, i'm finally finished with my porting job on my 66's heads! let me know what you guys think!! i mainly focused on the exhaust side, with some mild cleaning up of the intakes. i'm going to take the heads in for a valve job, maybe new guides and to get the machining done for screw in rocker arm studs!

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It looks like the exhaust ports were opened up a bit from stock.

You may want to go back and scribe guide lines. Use the header mounting holes as your reference and open them up to within 2mm of the imprint left by the manifolds. Use the abrasive drums used in porting to help you get uniform results.

Uniformity of flow is a good idea across the exhaust ports so you can take full advantage of the added airflow and balance the exhaust pulses.

I believe Shaun and TracyBlkfrd had some good porting pics on here.

Take some scotchbrite wheels to your chambers, and use a polish wheel to give them a mirror like finish.



Let me know if there is any info I can provide to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well i'm taking it over to the head shop tomorrow to get them cleaned and check out, and have the other work started. i'll finish polishing everything up and touching it up after i get it back, because they'll be quite clean then! and the dremel sanding drums will come into play big time with this part, as will the scotch brite!! thanks for that picture!! i don't need to go that badass, i'm just going to keep the stock valves in there i believe. unless i can find an "easy" swap to slightly bigger ones or the chevy valves...

thoughts???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok I forgot to mention something. I am throwing a set of Patriot tri-y's on here too, but I had already started the porting on the heads before I decided to get the headers... There is a definite reduction in size between the ports on the heads and headers. Im planning on rounding the edges as much as I can, and maybe even welding the outside of the flange to the pipe so it will be able to be opened up some without leaking.

I don't see the reduction being as big of a problem as a set of port matched manifolds in terms of flow. Thoughts on this too??
 

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Looks great...I will be starting the same project this weekend on my '67 iron heads.

How many carbide burrs did you end up using for all of the porting? It looks like you cut through a lot of iron on the exhaust ports.

Great job!
 

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Ok I forgot to mention something. I am throwing a set of Patriot tri-y's on here too, but I had already started the porting on the heads before I decided to get the headers... There is a definite reduction in size between the ports on the heads and headers. Im planning on rounding the edges as much as I can, and maybe even welding the outside of the flange to the pipe so it will be able to be opened up some without leaking.

I don't see the reduction being as big of a problem as a set of port matched manifolds in terms of flow. Thoughts on this too??
As long as the opening of the header flange is equal to or greater than the port (1/16" is a great safety margin) you should be fine. Don't round the flange, if needed, bevel it. This reduces resistance from gasses hitting the flange. If you grind off what you need at the surface, and taper to 'zero' at the outer edge, that'll be ideal. Your plan for welding the outer side of the joint is a good one, if this relief is required.

Strictly speaking, "port-matching" means matching the ports to the headers, so you kinda didn't do that. That'll cost you the extra work on the headers. Slightly smaller ports would have been just as effective, really.

I'm sure you'll be happy with the results, once it's all installed.
 

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Wanna,
What tool did you use to do this?
Can you post a pic?
Can this be done with the heads still on?
Do you need to worry about the abrasives getting into the engine?

Looks good.
 

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Nice job but it looks like you opened up the port opening a little too much..You may have some problems with the header sealing up along the top edge..I always take a header gasket and mark its outline on the port before I start grinding and then I stay within its lines..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did this with the gasket, and everything matched up just fine, as im still within the gasket openings. I'll be using some percys dead soft aluminum gaskets as well.

I used one carbide cutter for it all, and 2 stones, that's it! Got the sets from sears, I'll throw up a pic later of the pieces.

You can't do this in the car, heads must be removed, as you can't get the die grinder in tight enough with it in the bay. You'll need to probably get a valve job afterwards, as you WILL touch the valve faces, especially if this is your first port job.

I'm not finished 100% yet, as I need to go back over things after they're cleaned up, and then I'll try to bevel the headers as much as I can on the edges to get the flow transition as good as I can! The port shape on the Patriots would work better on a set of stock shaped ports, so I'm hoping everything can work properly...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
just got a quote for all the parts i'd need for the heads to get it back to speed. $600!! that's for a 3-angle valve job, new guides, valves, machining for studs and resurfacing of the gasket surface.

with the $200 i already have in parts for this job, i could apply that to a new set of aluminum heads! a guy i know said he could get my a set of trick flow heads that will work well with my setup for $1000! this really wasn't in the budget, but i can make it work!! here's a link to the summit page: Trick Flow Specialties TFS-51400002 - Trick Flow® Twisted Wedge® 170 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Ford - Overview - SummitRacing.com

these are a cheaper and better alternative to the AFR 165's IMO. thanks for the help anyways guys!! now would anyone be interested in purchasing my stock heads?? i'll let em go cheap! :p
 
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