Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello Forum!!
I have. 66 convertible with a 289 that had been sitting for almost 4 decades. When I brought it home I checked all the important stuff to make sure it wasn’t trash and all was good. Replaced the water pump cover, water pump , thermostat, hoses and put in a new 3 core aluminum radiator, and this one has the inlets and outlets above and below each other on the passenger side. Radiator also has a built in trans cooler. I have also installed a electric cooling fan!
When we were testing car it would heat up, fan would kick on and start cook’ing down. Once we had everything ready on the brakes and trans, we took it out for a drive and the car started overheating. Check coolant leaves again, made sure that hoses were still good, and took it for another drive. Got about 5 miles from home and it did it again.
Am I missing a step or something? Do I need to. Install a trans cooler separate from the radiator? If someone could advise I would appreciate it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,674 Posts
Next time you buy a radiator stay with a 2 row with at least 1" cooling tubes. Now what fan are you using and when does the car overheat at idle or while moving? Do you have a temp gauge hooked up and if so how hot does it get? If you had a lot of rust in the block from sitting you may have plugged the radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Possibly an air pocket in the block? Does your thermostat have a bleeder built in or did you drill a hole in the tstat and install at 12 o’clock?

You can try raising the front end and run the car until the thermostat opens and bleed air that way, too.

Rusty
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
Did you flush the block when you had it apart? I'm with cmefly on this if you didn't... the radiator might be clogged. Flushing the system isn't hard. Cut the female end of a garden hose and clamp the hose end to the pump outlet. Remove the bottom hose from the radiator. Screw a garden hose onto the piece on the pump and turn the water on.
To un-clog the radiator, you'll have to remove it, turn it upside down and run water through it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey guys my bad!! No I don’t have a temp gauge on it, but the original temp sensor on the dash panel pegs out badly. I have a SPAL electric fan on the radiator, and the radiator was brand new when installed.
No, I did not flush the block when we put it back together, that was going to me next on my list.
When the car was in the garage when we got it back to life it would register half way on the original temp panel gauge and the electric cooling fan worked great. When we drove it for the first time today it barely went 5-6 miles before the gauge pegged out and when I got it home you could hear and see the coolant boiling over into the overflow tank almost filling it completely.
After a while the coolant in the tank went back to the engine or radiator, and when I started the car the heat level was 1/4 of the way up the gauge. Drove the car for another five miles and did the same thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
When I do flush it with the garden hose is it the top line or the lower line I hook it up to?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,674 Posts
Should have flushed it before installing the new radiator. Was it rusty looking when you removed the water pump and timing cover? Good chance you plugged the radiator if it was rusty.Might want to install a Gano Filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,987 Posts
The top one. The bottom one goes to the heater core.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
599 Posts
I would look at doing either the citric acid flush or using thermocure to flush the engine. Water alone will not remove large rust deposits. And large chunks of rust scale may now be inside your radiator.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
424 Posts
As noted above, a complete cooling system flush is in order. If it sat for 40 years with water in it, you have some rust issues to be dealt with. May take a couple of tries to get it done. Would think a Gano style inline hose filter to be a must in your situation so as not to clot your radiator once again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34,478 Posts
Hmmm… Overheats when moving. I'd say your fan is inadequate. But that's a guess, if it overheats at highway speeds on the open road, the fan type means nothing. Electric fans typically pull less air than stock steel fans, they only really have the advantage in stop and go traffic. On the highway you don't really even need a fan. It's in between where the stock fans are actually better. The best is a thermostatic clutch fan. They really move a lot of air stopped or medium speed, and slip to idle on the highway.

Don't worry about the trans cooler. Unless you are towing a camper, the amount of heat involved is minimal. My "other" car has an automatic trans, and it doesn't even have a cooler.

Of course, in cold weather driving, the trans cooler becomes a trans heater. It's a good thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
just an FYI, there was no water or coolant in the engine or radiator for years, the car belonged to my old room mate before her passing, and the car was left to me.
The car had been garaged since 1983!
I did pull the car out, drained the coolant and did the fish with water through the water plump ports as advised. A little brownish water came out. I pulled the radiator out and flushed as advised. Low and behold there was rust and crap all filled in the rows of the new aluminum radiator. I’m not even sure If the radiator shop can boil the crap out of it, but was able to find a NIB 3 core original style on CL for $50. Installed and filled with coolant but got to dark to go any farther. Will run it tomorrow and burp out all the air and see what happens.
I did hear about the thermocure but have never used it, but will probably do that next with the CL radiator instead of throwing good money after bad buying another aluminum radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
313 Posts
My engine has been sitting for a while too. I didn't want to risk plugging up my new radiator so I installed a coolant filter. You may want to consider a filter as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I just got the new radiator in last night and partially filled with coolant.... will look into getting a in-line filter today and install
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
599 Posts
As far as cleaning the new radiator. If it's just rust, you make be able to run citric acid or thermocure through that aluminum radiator and clear it out. Both of those products will dissolve the rust. If it's full of something else I am not sure what would get it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Installed the inline coolant filter and the temp on the panel gauge was reading perfectly at half reading. Drove it about 6 miles a and the temp started to get high to the pointy it was at the high level mark on the gauge but wasn’t boiling over as before. Checked the ifilter and there was some rust crud in it but was not plugged all the way.
Ordered Thermocure last night and took today off to drop all the coolant and pull the block drain plugs out and do a complete block flush..... can’t wait to see what comes out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
599 Posts
Be prepared for a stinky black ugly mess lol. Also in my experience with thermocure is that it's very tenacious. It takes several flushes to get it all out especially the more rust you have. What I found that helps was doing multiple rounds of thermocure and flushes. After the 4th round of thermocure it wasn't as black, thick, and stinky. It flushed out clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Drained all the coolant out, and was able to get one of the block plugs out, the other was stripped at the hex head. Coolant was barely dribbling out until I put a pick in the hole and was able to get a piece of blockage loose, and then was pouring out in a good stream. Did a complete flush and added the thermocure as directed.
I was actually able to take the car for a 2 hour drive keeping the needle on the “M” on the temp gauge!! Stayed like that the whole time. Am going to run it for another 2 hours tomorrow and do the first flush Friday and repeat the process a few more times. hopefully after I’m done this will cure the heat issues. Will keep you all posted.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top