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My 289 short block is back and I'm ready to add the E- Street Edelbrock heads and Performer intake manifold ......... would you use any RTV (or other) on the Fel Pro gasket set? Thank you for your knowledge. Cheers, Bill Palmer
 

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I personally use sealer on intake manifold gaskets but I do the expensive gaskets. I also use black silicone on the cork gaskets at either end of the manifold around the oil gallery and make sure the corners are well whetted. Be interesting to see what others do.

M

If you checked my post quickly, I actually said I did not use it but I then I wasn't sure so I went and checked and it turns out I did. My bad, its the exhaust side I do not...

Final note: I read the post below and now I do remember and went and checked just where the sealer was. Mustang Steve has it right. My motor has been together for almost a decade, memories fade...
 

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Large beads of Black RTV (the higher temp Ultra stuff) or Right Stuff gasket maker in place of the front and rear intake cork junk and a thin smear around the water ports. That's all. I also like to use 4 guide studs with nuts in place of four of the intake bolts so you dont drop it down misaligned and then smear the bead of rtv somewhere it doesnt belong.

oh, actually Steve has a good write up, here: hinge
 

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289 Rebuild?

Thank you guys for your replies, I knew I'd get useful help! Would you use any product on the heads/head gaskets?? Thanks, Bill Palmer
 

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Discussion Starter #7
289 Build?

Thank you both for your help. I was sure about nothing on the head gaskets, but wanted to make sure of myself. It's St. Patrick's Day everyone!!! Bill Palmer
 

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Large beads of Black RTV (the higher temp Ultra stuff) or Right Stuff gasket maker in place of the front and rear intake cork junk and a thin smear around the water ports. That's all. I also like to use 4 guide studs with nuts in place of four of the intake bolts so you dont drop it down misaligned and then smear the bead of rtv somewhere it doesnt belong.

oh, actually Steve has a good write up, here: hinge
Excellent answer. I've used the Permatex orange with success in both places as well. The Right Stuff is gnarly vicious stuff to remove lol...but if you're using a vacuum pump, it's the ticket.

It's kind of funny, when we were building engines professionally for customers, my partner used to use the cork end seal gasket religiously. The first time I saw it I asked him what on earth he was doing? He said he'd never had a leak doing it that way, and has had nothing but issues with any other method. I personally throw them in the trash since I can't make them seal to save my life! I use a thick bead (sometimes more than one bead if there's a large gap) of the gasket goop. Lay it on, let it tack up a bit, then lower the intake and all is good.

On my windsor style intakes going on aluminum heads, I use a stud kit for the whole thing. It's easier to align properly and it lessens any issue of stripping out the threads, which can be an ugly problem for anyone regardless of experience lol.

Good luck!

Cris
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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I tend to keep my Fords around for years. I paint a light coat of Permatex "Aviation" gasket sealer around the intake gasket water ports, paying particular attention the driver's side front one. I've had trouble with those leaking after a few years. Not just on small block Fords either.
The intake end seals I toss. When one squeezes out after only six or seven years it really annoys me. I did try the newer OEM/Victor-Reinz silicone ones with "shoulders" once and had the rear one squeeze out just like the corks after only six months. So I stick with RTV silicone. I like "Ultra gray" as it tends to blend in well with aluminum. Otherwise I use Ultra black.
I wipe the contact surfaces of the intake and block a last time with lacquer thinner (alcohol will do) first. When that dries I lay down a fat bead of RTV on the engine then paint a very thin coat on the intake. With four studs in the corners I plop the intake down while the RTV is still wet. Later on if I decide to pull the intake back off for something I usually have to make an initial slice in the RTV with a razor blade to break the seal. NO oil leaks.
 

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The Right Stuff for the end gaskets. It is just about foolproof. All gasket surfaces must be VERY clean. Pass the white glove test.
 

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As I just said om another thread, I'm "old school" with engine gaskets. Thin coat on both sides, a blob at the corners where the gaskets join. Works great.



BTW, ever notice that Permatex Orange is Chevy Orange? There's a reason for that…
 
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