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I have a 3 row aftermarket original style radiator with my 428cj. I am running about 200-210 degrees and it hasn't even warmed up yet. Will a 4row help?
 

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A 4row may help but I doubt it will be the cure. I would start with a second temp guage, preferably mechanical. If it still indicates too hot, I would check timing and fuel mixture. Make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks. Are you running a shroud? If not, get one and see if it improves things. Personally, I have never seen water wetter type product make any improvement in cooling. Not saying it doesnt work, I'm just sayin.....
 

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One of the best known water wetter's is household detergent. Special water wetter is made to use in auto cooling system to improve cooling. A wetter improves to contact/wetting of the internal engine and radiator surfaces. Heat transfer is improved with thorough cantact.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have a mechanical temp gauge. I also used a temp gun on the radiator and water neck housing. I am running a mechanical fan w/shroud. And yes, the fan is in the shroud where it is supposed to be. Timing is where it should be. I am running a 50/50 mix. I don't think I have a fuel problem or vacuum leaks but I will check again.

I have read some threads that mention taking a 3 row and making it a 4 row with a staggered core? Not sure if this would be different than getting a 4 row. My current 3row is leaking at the tank and I am sending it back this week. But, in the mean time I am trying to see if the 4 row will help. I don't really want to trick the car with water wetter.
 

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Sounds like you have the usual suspects covered then. Has it always run hot or did you just rebuild engine or? Overbore? Running hot just sitting and idling or at speed? I have read that over heating conditions at slow speed require more air flow and over heat conditoons at speed require more water flow.
 

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I have a 3 row aftermarket original style radiator with my 428cj. I am running about 200-210 degrees and it hasn't even warmed up yet. Will a 4row help?
My 390 (same block as 428), bored .015 over, using orig stock '67 3 core radiator, new stock style 7 blade clutch fan, fan shroud, plain 50/50 anti freeze, using recomended 180 t-stat, correct radiator cap and mechanical temp gauge & aluminum Edlebrock hds. I spoke with my engine builder about temps and he said an FE engine should run around 210-212 degrees. He was right. I've driven this car down the highway with air temp @ 96 degrees couple years ago as well as sitting in traffic on hot days and mechanical temp gauge never goes over ~ 212 degrees. Make sure fan belt is snug.
I read one time that a "thicker" radiator may not always solve over heating problems because thicker came make it harder to move air thru it quickly.
 

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I have a mechanical temp gauge. I also used a temp gun on the radiator and water neck housing. I am running a mechanical fan w/shroud. And yes, the fan is in the shroud where it is supposed to be. Timing is where it should be. I am running a 50/50 mix. I don't think I have a fuel problem or vacuum leaks but I will check again.

I have read some threads that mention taking a 3 row and making it a 4 row with a staggered core? Not sure if this would be different than getting a 4 row. My current 3row is leaking at the tank and I am sending it back this week. But, in the mean time I am trying to see if the 4 row will help. I don't really want to trick the car with water wetter.

All things considered, you're left with flow issues. If everything is as mentioned above.
I would check hoses, t stat, lower hose spring, cap.
 

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The 4th row only gives about 10% increase in cooling, since it slows airflow, and of course the air hitting it is already heated by the first 3 rows. Shroud, thermal clutch fan, 190° thermostat, clean 3-row radiator, and functional distributor vacuum control valve are all things that will keep it cool.

This one runs cool:

 

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Water Wetter is good stuff. I use it in all my vehicles. If you ask around the race track, everybody uses it. Its not a trick. Its used in photography as well to break surface tension in water.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The 4th row only gives about 10% increase in cooling, since it slows airflow, and of course the air hitting it is already heated by the first 3 rows. Shroud, thermal clutch fan, 190° thermostat, clean 3-row radiator, and functional distributor vacuum control valve are all things that will keep it cool.

This one runs cool:

It appears we have a smiliar set up. The only thing I can see different is my fan is a just a mechanical. Does this one run 200-210?
 

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With the 428 in the GT500 I had I installed an electric fan in front of the radiator. It made the biggest difference in cooling. Cut your cooling mixture back to 75/25.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I can't put a fan in front of my radiator since I have a condensor there. I will try the mixture change.
 
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