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Hi group!! I’m upgrading from a 6 in line to a 302 v8 .. my problem is that I can’t assemble my transmission to the motor.. my tork converter is all the way in.. would it be my bell housing not to long enough?
742001
 

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Nope. Torque converter not all the way in. Pull it back apart and it should drop back 2 times. You can push up on the hub of the converter while turning it to get it to seat.

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Make sure the bellhousing fits over the dowel pins on the block. I have seen some dowels on blocks that did not fit the bellhousing and I had to drill the alignment holes bigger on the bellhousing to fit over the dowel pins.
 

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Just went through this in Dec, even though you may have the torque converter all the way in, once you start mating it to the engine, turning things around to line up the torque coverter studs to the flex plate, it is easy for the torque converter to come back out a bit. That......or you torque converter studs are not aligned and going through the hoels on the flex plate.
 

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Get 2 long bolts and cut the heads off, run them in finger loose and use them as alignment pins. then put a car scizzor jack or bottle jack under teh flange while the trans is supported by a floor jack. THen you can jocky things around more controlled till that last flange engages. YOu sure teh torque converter is seated correctly in the transmission and that it is the right converter?
 

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I don't remember if the Ford torque converter shaft has 2 flats or 2 notches in the end where it engages the front pump. If these aren't lined up in the pump, your converter will sit about 1/2 inch too far out of the bell housing. CAUTION! If you try to tighten the bell housing bolts down and the converter isn't lined up with the pump, you WILL wipe out your front pump. The 2 splines on the input shaft of the trans will usually line up easily but you have to slowly turn the converter afterwards to link up the the pump. Yep, it's a royal pain.
 

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People unfamiliar with how a torque converter do this over and over and over. It's a pain to get a torque converter to seat sometimes even if you've had lots of practice. It helps to spin it around with your hand while lifting up slightly. Gravity makes it sag down and even harder to get on. Off the top of my head, the front of the converter should be about 7/8's of an inch back from the machined face of the bellhousing.
My next to final check before I tighten the bellhousing bolts to the engine is to make sure the converter studs just barely poke through the flexplate. When the bolts are tightened all they way, the final check is to grab a converter stud with my fingers and "clang" it back and forth slightly. If the studs are sticking ALL the way through the flexplate or I can't move them with my fingertips, it's wrong and I have to pull the transmission back again ans seat the converter some more.

It's been mentioned already about how even after you seat the converter that somewhere during the transmission installation it can pop back out slightly again. It certainly can, And when it does you can't just push it back. You have to go through the twisting and pushing business again, count on it. It's a little perverse that way. No converter will install without being rotated more than just a bit. Some are a wrestling match.
 

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Get 2 long bolts and cut the heads off, run them in finger loose and use them as alignment pins. then put a car scizzor jack or bottle jack under teh flange while the trans is supported by a floor jack. THen you can jocky things around more controlled till that last flange engages. YOu sure teh torque converter is seated correctly in the transmission and that it is the right converter?
I did a double take to make sure the OP had the Block plate sandwiched in there o_O
 
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