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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, so I've been working on getting my i6 up and running, but the more I put into it the more I know it needs a total rebuild... I have planned on dropping a 302 and T5 in it at some point, so thinking might as well do it sooner rather than later rather than dumping more $ into something I plan on swapping out eventually anyhow.

So to get to my question, I've found a guy that's "fairly" local, who has a rebuilt carbureted '90 302/5.0 in his "65 and is swapping it out for bigger and more HP. Pretty much everything on it is new, comes with flywheel and clutch as well. He had it listed at $3000, but has dropped it to $2700. Think I can get him lower, after talking with him, he just wants it gone at a fair price.

Whatchya all think is a fair price?
 

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65 Fastback 289 4 spd, 65 convertible 5.0L 5 spd. 3.73 8.8
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I bought a 5.0L, complete with wiring, ecm and T5 and have $1800 in it. But i think i got a really good buy. It was not in vehicle so i took a chance on it running and working good. So i think $2700 is also a good deal. A T5 is getting harder to find that is good.
 

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I put a 302 in my 66. It replaced a tired 289. The clutch and flywheel of a late 80s, and into the 90s used a cable rather than an equalizer bar. The bell housing from an early mustang will not allow the clutch to be hooked up - a push to a pull mechanism! I had to get a mid 80s bell housing and have the clutch pedal modified to operate a cable. Check into the clutc before you buy. Getting the right flywheel is critical! $2500 would be a fair price I think.
 

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Is it "ready to run"? Distributor, intake, carb, headers, etc? Can you hear it run? Is it otherwise stock 1990 302? No heads/cam/rockers, etc? If you get all the ready to run parts, plus a clutch kit, and it's a solid motor, if you can get it for around $2K you're probably in good shape if it was recently rebuilt. As a comparison, a blueprint roller 302 fully dressed is $4500 bucks for the 300 HP version.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is it "ready to run"? Distributor, intake, carb, headers, etc? Can you hear it run? Is it otherwise stock 1990 302? No heads/cam/rockers, etc? If you get all the ready to run parts, plus a clutch kit, and it's a solid motor, if you can get it for around $2K you're probably in good shape if it was recently rebuilt. As a comparison, a blueprint roller 302 fully dressed is $4500 bucks for the 300 HP version.
Yes fully ready, with everything already on it. It is currently still in his '65, and he has sent me vid of it running. Plus I am hoping to take a look at it prior to him pulling it. Comes with everything, Heads, Carb, Intake, Dist., Clutch, etc. Not sure if any modifications have been made to it other than to Carb it. Assuming it is stock heads, cam, roller rockers, etc.
 

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It's easy to spend $1000 and many hours on required bits and pieces after you buy an engine that'll drop right in. It sounds like you can get most of those pieces with this engine. $2K, maybe a little more, would be a good deal if the performance level and condition of this engine is what you are looking for.
 

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Yes fully ready, with everything already on it. It is currently still in his '65, and he has sent me vid of it running. Plus I am hoping to take a look at it prior to him pulling it. Comes with everything, Heads, Carb, Intake, Dist., Clutch, etc. Not sure if any modifications have been made to it other than to Carb it. Assuming it is stock heads, cam, roller rockers, etc.
It's easy to forget how much all those other pieces cost, so as long as it's a solid runner, this could be a really good deal for you. Good luck!
 

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About 6 years ago I bought a 5.0 from a guy about an hour away from me. It came out of a '92 Mustang. The car was sitting right there when I picked it up. It included everything from the HO EFI intake to the oil pan, and clutch pressure plate to water pump. He was replacing it with something bigger and better. I was a little worried that it would be worn out but I was planning a rebuild anyway so it was a calculated risk.

It didn't occur to me that the long block might not even be what it was supposed to be. I got it home and verrrrry quickly figured out I had been hosed. The first clue was the 2-piece rear main. Which of course means it wasn't even a roller cam engine. It was some random 302 from the 70's. If I had been thinking ahead I could have asked the guy to pull the clutch and flywheel off to look at that.

To address the OP question - Unless that is a badass, very complete roller 302 with a bunch of goodies, I think the price is off by a factor of 5. If you don't know the seller, you don't know what it is unless he is willing to let you take stuff apart before closing the deal.
 

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I say 2k max. For close to 3k I'd be looking at a crate engine with warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you all for your good input. All very valid points. Figure I will try to take a look at it while it's still in car and here it run, then once he gets it pulled, give it a good once over as well before sealing the deal.

Any advice on what to be looking for, to ensure it's not just a bunch of shiny new bits on an old pig?
 

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To see if the block is an earlier block or later block while the engine is still in the car, check the driver side of the block where the bushing for a mechanical clutch linkage would be mounted. If there is no hole there, or an after market bracket is there instead, then chances are it's a later block. I don't know when Ford quit casting block with that hole, but a later block won't have it. I have a block out of a 98 Explorer that doesn't have the hole, and there is not enough metal there to drill and tap it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So get this, I've been talking to this guy since this past Wednesday about checking out this motor, told him I really wanted it, but wanted to hear it run. Made arrangements with him to meet today at his place 1hr 45 min away from me, to look it over, listen to it run in person and make an offer. Shot him a text when I left this morning and told him I'd be there by 10:30 and got a thumbs up from him. As I pull in to his driveway another guys is just leaving, and as I get out of my truck and walk up to meet him he says "I need to let you know I just accepted an offer from the guy who just left" WTF! He said the guy was local and called him this morning. AND he offered him $100 less than the asking price!!!
I was less than happy, asked they guy why he took an offer when he knew I was on my way and what time I would be there, and that I was driving that far!? Thanks for wasting my time and gas! What a D!CK move! Then he says "well if this guy changes his mind I will let you know... He didn't even give him any $ just told him he wanted it and would pick it up and pay him once it was pulled. All I got was a "sorry man...but I gave the guy my word" I HATE PEOPLE!:mad:
 

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That really is a dick move. But look at it this way, maybe you dodged a bullet. If the seller is someone who would do something like that, I have no doubt that they would have no qualms about misrepresenting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That really is a dick move. But look at it this way, maybe you dodged a bullet. If the seller is someone who would do something like that, I have no doubt that they would have no qualms about misrepresenting the engine.
Yeah, kinda my thoughts as well. But it was a nice lookn /sounding engine, seemed completelyre-done. Would have been a very easy plug n play. Really don't want to do a rebuild, got plenty of thing on this car to take up my time...lol
 

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I bought a junkyard GT40P for $450, sold off what I didn't want for $175. Net cost of good running motor $275. Used Stealth intake $80, used Mustang 5.0 cam $60, used carb $125. Did invest in a valve spring kit, new flywheel, new balancer, new water pump.
779642
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought a junkyard GT40P for $450, sold off what I didn't want for $175. Net cost of good running motor $275. Used Stealth intake $80, used Mustang 5.0 cam $60, used carb $125. Did invest in a valve spring kit, new flywheel, new balancer, new water pump. View attachment 779642
Nice!
Yeah, I have thought about going that route as well, really didn't want to spend the time on doing it all. Id rather spend a little more and save my time for other things, but the route you went may be my best option. Luckily I'm not in a huge hury.
 

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Yeah, I have thought about going that route as well, really didn't want to spend the time on doing it all. Id rather spend a little more and save my time for other things, but the route you went may be my best option. Luckily I'm not in a huge hury.
Look around online too. I bought a complete 98 Explorer engine, GT40P, with shipping for $400. I just wanted the block. I'll end up selling the heads, upper and lower intake, etc, and have a practically free block. Since you're not in a hurry, you can shop around for a bit.
 

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I got lucky with Craig's List. It took me about 3 months of searching. I found a guy with a 351 out of a F250 that he had already disassembled so I was able to inspect the inside of the block. Because it was disassembled we were able to just pick it up by hand and load it into the SUV by hand.
 
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