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Discussion Starter #1
Personally, I'd like to hear from the bona-fide 347 stroker owners about the good/bad qualities of this kit. Just the facts please.

1. Does the engine use an excessive amount of oil?
2. Do you think this engine is less/more reliable than a standard bore/stroke 302?
3. Are the performance gains worth the added costs?
4. If you had it to do over again, would you build another 347?

Not really interested in what someone heard, or what the guy down the street said.... Just people that actually own one...
Thanks..... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 

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Very happy with my Stroker. Although I did not use anyones kit. I put the parts together myself. More money, but no crap Chinese crankshaft either.
 

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Did my research and already made the plunge but havent gotten the motor back from the shop yet. There's definately more to a good build than just the stroke kit. Since I'm not a "Bona-fied" user (Yet) I'll have to get back to you on this one. In the meantime, Check out Eagle and Coast High Performance. Coast offers a kit with Probe Ind. Pistons with wrist pins outside the ringland area and claims they are less apt to burn oil.

Good Luck, will be interesting to follow your responces!
 

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Art, I've been running my 347 for a couple years now and am very happy with it, I did not go the kit route and went with all high end parts, did not scrimp.

The shop that did mine has done a number of them for cobra kit cars and were able to give me good recomandations on parts to use.

Now mind you I have only put about 3k on motor since its been done so can't really tell you how long will last but at this point I have no reason to belive it will not hold up, do I think it will last 100k no not really if I got 40-50 would be fine with me as I do not drive the car more than a couple thousand miles a year, and I'm also running a supercharger etc. I do know they did another motor for someone who got 70k as a daily driver.

We do not use excessive oil. Reliabity I don't think could compare with a standard motor. Performance gains yes I'm very pleased with no substatute for cubic inches IMHO. Would I do it over again YES but I might consider doing a 351 to 392.

Hope this helps
Mark
 

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I'm with emberglow. I know the guy in the Prelude too. He can pull a wheelly starting in fouth gear! /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif BTW, I drove through Cullman 4 times in the last month on I-65. I was too busy to stop though. Maybe I can make it up on a trip home around the holidays. Thought that's about a 3 day drive on a Moped /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 

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You have already heard my horror story.

I would suggest not using a kit, rather find a good shop and build from good parts.

Do NOT use CHP, as they do not qualify as a good shop, IMHO.
 

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I've got a 342" (standard bore 5.0 with a stroker crank) in the Fastback and have put about 400 miles on the car since the restoration was completed about a month ago. So far, everything is going well with the only problem being engine temp during extended periods of idling in hot weather. That issue has been solved with a 7 blade Flex-a-lite fan and custom fan shroud. This engine has more power than I will ever need, particularly with 4:11 gears. The long block (new 5.0 block, Eagle stroker assembly, AFR 185 heads, Chet Herbert cam, roller rockers, forged pistons, billet flywheel, damper, Melling oil pump, all balanced) was purchased from Central Coast Mustang. I added the accessories (MSD dist, Edelbrock water pump, Super Victor intake, Hooker Competition headers, Holley 750 carb, Holley mech fuel pump, Milidon 8 qt pan, Ford Motorsport pulleys, Ford Motorsport hi-torque mini-starter). This engine combination fired up perfectly the instant fuel reached the carb and hasn't missed a beat yet. I didn't even have to adjust the idle screws on the carb. The jury is still out on the solid roller cam. There is obviously more valve train noise and I'll check the adjustment again after about 500 miles. If it requires frequent adjustment, it'll get replaced with a hyd. roller.
 

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Art

I also own a 342 stroker (standard bore built on a ford racing
R302 4 bolt main block)

I used the 4340 forged steel Eagle stroker crank and H beam rods (had Pauter had some at the time I would have bought the rods from them, they have a ower profile and lighter rod that is just as strong) I ordered custom high compression pistons from Ross (11.5:1) with a std head gasket. I also went with a ford racing windage tray, 8qt milodon oil pan, comp cams roller cam, and the nice comp cams roller rockers, Milodon high volume oil pump, ARP everything, Rpm Air gap intake, 750 cfm holley, holley electric fuel pump with regulator, summit dual feed fuel line and psi guage, ford racing high volume alum water pump, MSD ign module-pro bilet dist-blaster2 coil, Ford racing spk plg wires,
Ford racing SVO heads with 1.94int/1.60 exh

The heads were taken in, fully ported and polished, the intake was also ported and port matched.

the heads, intake, boss302 oil cooler adapter, lines and oil cooler radiators engine and tranny, timing cover and engine block were all coated with black heat dispersant coating. (during the dyno runs
some icy mist started forming on the base of the carb and same part of intake!!!)

the shop also applied an oil shedding film on the underside of the intake (facing the lifter valley) the longer hot oil stays on your intake the less denser the intake charge will be.

The valves were coated with thermal barrier coating, the piston skirts were coated with a dry lubricant coating.

After several dyno runs and tweaking it is ready to go....
443 hp was attained...(exceeding my target of 425hp) I imagine that the shaker will add some as well.

I think MYTOYS has his at 600 hp? These babies pump out some wild power!!! and they are torquey too.

If you like the 302 based stroker it is a good idea to go witha block that can handle oversizes up to .120

and with siamesed bores...I can get alot out of this baby!!!

The stroker kits are fine, but you will always get what you payed for. The 351 based stroker should also be quite a best f in a light car.....

let me know if you'd like to build one....I know where to get good pricing for all the stuff.

The machine shop should torque plate the block, mock the assembly up as they go and make sure that the machining isn't fudged
regards
Roberto
ps...for a daily driver it isn't practical......but for the weekend warrior...it is perfect, reliability isn't a problem and depends on
the cam you choose...(i chose the comp cam hyd roller cam
224/224 degrees int and exh @.50 and .545/.545 lift int/exh
with 114 degree lobe separation)

plus....mustangs shouldn't be daily drivers anyway....my own opinion.

re:Do NOT use CHP, as they do not qualify as a good shop, IMHO.

lol!!! I agree wholeheartedly
 
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