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i know this is a stupid question,but how do you tell a 351w
from a 351c.i have a free 351? given to me.which is best for my 68 stang.the engine came out of a 78 ford truck.
PLEASE HELP ME ON THIS ONE..EMAIL TO [email protected]
 

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From a '78 truck, it should be a Windsor, but, never know...Look where the top radiator hose hooks to the engine.
If it goes to the intake manifold, it is a Windsor. If it looks like it goes straight to the block, it is a Cleveland.
 

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If it has the original valve covers they will say as well ,,,it could be a 351 W or a 351M the cleveland was long gone in 78
 

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If you look at the 351c in this picture you can see how the upper radiator hose mounts down and into the block.

If the motor is a windsor the upper hose goes into the intake and not the block.

http://users.zoominternet.net/~dodgeram/images/01enginebay2.jpg
 

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Or, count the number of bolts holding a valvecover on - 6 bolts on Windsor, 8 on Cleveland.

Watch out - If this is a cleveland, coming out of a 78 truck, it's probably a 351M, which has no performance potential in a Mustang! /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
 

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easy...probably is a 351M

look on top of the the upper corners of the cylinder heads close to the intake......

if theres no letter or number its a windsor

if there's a 2 it's a 2V cleveland

if theres a 4 it's a 4V cleveland

if theres a M it's a boat anchor (just kidding, it's a 351 "modified".....a difficult to work with 351 kinda like a cleveland)
 

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A easy way to tell if it's a M or C is the area by the distributor if it rises to the t-stat housing about 3/4 inch it's a M , if it looks flat it's a C.
 

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Avoid the M engine, not because it's necessarily bad, but because performance parts for it are somewhat limited...also, IIRC, it has the 429-460 (385 series) trans bolt pattern, which is different from the 351W, C and 289/302's..

If you plan on leaving your chassis near stock, I'd go with the 351W.....I run one in the race car and find it to be a reliable, low-cost performer. You can build one to run low 14s, high 13's on a relatively modest budget, likely between 5 and 7.00/HP, depending on level of durability.

For example, as I had the cores for the race car W already, it cost me just a bit over 4K to build the engine entirely from scratch, with alloy heads, back in '95. With a more modest HP goal, you should be able to do it for roughly half that cost...

Have fun!
 

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I was taught to look at the fuel pump bolts. If they are vertical then it's a Cleveland. If they are horizontal then it's a windsor.
 
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